rear springs question

[fastpig]

I was looking on the parts catalog for rear springs for my 09 Nytro SE. I see there are three different springs listed.

(K=1900NMM/DEG)
(K=2100NMM/DEG)
(K=1400NMM/DEG)

The 1400 shows as standard I believe? I take it the higher the number the stiffer the spring ?

 

[yukon yamaha]

yes for sure but if you play with the shocks a bit you should be able to set that machine up sweet!

 

[fastpig]

Carver Performance has the shocks now setting them up for the season. I have talked to Mike at Carver a couple of times now. Great guy and very helpful. Can't wait to get them back and on the sled.

 

[Bigblue1]

Sounds good but if your a bigger rider 2100's are a must.

 

[ahicks]

If you're installing heavier springs the rebound damping will need to be set up for them. Otherwise, and you get yourself a bucking bronco that'll toss your butt in the air then meet you again on your way down.... Make sure Carver knows what you're doing if he has your shocks!

 

[fastpig]

Thanks for the help guys, I'll go with what Carver recommends on rear springs. I weigh about 200 pds. with gear on.

 

[Snowman07]

As long as we're on the topic of springs. Has anyone broke one yet?? I'm at 5300 miles and haven't had a spring break yet, and getting a bit scared that one will go while riding this winter. I may just order new ones and replace them reguardless just for the peace of mind knowing I have new ones on my sled.

 

[NyTrOMaNIaC]

Pretty sure the stock springs on the RTX models are 1900's, so 2100's are the next step up. Myself, I just put a set of X-Click aluminum 4 position torsion spring blocks on mine and it added the stiffness I was looking for. A lot cheaper than buying new springs, and I'm only on the 3rd setting. 4th position is the overload setting (20% over 3rd setting), yet the 3rd is more than stock HARD and more than enough. They replace the plastic 3 position blocks that adjust the tension on your torsion springs (S M H) and I think I paid around $60 for them.

 

[Grimm]

Pretty sure the stock springs on the RTX models are 1900's, so 2100's are the next step up. Myself, I just put a set of X-Click aluminum 4 position torsion spring blocks on mine and it added the stiffness I was looking for. A lot cheaper than buying new springs, and I'm only on the 3rd setting. 4th position is the overload setting (20% over 3rd setting), yet the 3rd is more than stock HARD and more than enough. They replace the plastic 3 position blocks that adjust the tension on your torsion springs (S M H) and I think I paid around $60 for them.

Where did you get them from?

 

[ahicks]

X-Clicks - 4 sided adusting cams, ShadeTree, SLP, and Hi Performance engineering all sell them - I was thinking something closer to 40. ?

 

[Alatalo]

Pretty sure the stock springs on the RTX models are 1900's

The 2008 RTX had the 1900's, but the 2009 SE got the 1400's combined with beefier compression damping (in my opinion, a very strange adjustment...).
Not sure about other 2009 models.

 

[NyTrOMaNIaC]

Pretty sure the stock springs on the RTX models are 1900's

The 2008 RTX had the 1900's, but the 2009 SE got the 1400's combined with beefier compression damping (in my opinion, a very strange adjustment...).
Not sure about other 2009 models.

Yeah, that is odd, especially considering the SE model is supposedly their best BIG bump sled to date. You would think they would have fitted them with at least the 1900's considering when I put mine on soft, they squat like they're made of rubber. I would still just go with the X-clicks and try that first before spending hundreds of dollars on new springs. Like I said earlier, the X-clicks on the 3rd setting (of 4) is stiffer than stock HARD, and I still have that extra 4th overload position available if I need it, although I probably won't. Also, by putting more preload on the torsion springs, I can soften up the shocks a bit and put less stress on them and still avoid bottoming over big hits. This is the best feature of the X-clicks IMO.

 

[Alatalo]

In my opinion, the 1400's are too soft if you are seriously interested in cross country racing or rough trail riding. Simply put, they are not stiff enough to offer the bottoming resistance you want in the big dips and g-outs. Trying to create bottoming resistance in big dips and g-outs - or any other situation where the load is applied for a long time - with compression damping instead of spring stiffness is a very questionable method that usually creates a harsh ride in other situations...

 

[ahicks]

In my opinion, the 1400's are too soft if you are seriously interested in cross country racing or rough trail riding. Simply put, they are not stiff enough to offer the bottoming resistance you want in the big dips and g-outs. Trying to create bottoming resistance in big dips and g-outs - or any other situation where the load is applied for a long time - with compression damping instead of spring stiffness is a very questionable method that usually creates a harsh ride in other situations...[/quote]

Oh boy, this is sure to get some opinions going. You could be right Alatalo, for the REALLY aggresive types, but my butt dyno would have to argue with you. I would use springs strong enough to get the sag within specs. (and maybe have a little in reserve?) then use damping for control from there. In either case, just a warning for most riders. My thought is if you are going to go EITHER way (HD spring or damping), to deal with a type of bump/bottoming seen in 1% (or less) of your riding, you are calibrated incorrectly for the other 99% of the time. You'll be WAY too stiff to get any type of enjoyable ride! Guys racing, jumping, or looking for a super aggressive set up might consider this (and be willing to pay the price), but not the guy looking to be geared up good enough for good Sat pm. junk survival. A set up to control bottoming in g-outs is a set up that will rattle your teeth just about full time the rest of the time! Most riders are further ahead learning to spot them in time to get up off their azz! FWIW

 

[gormleyflyer2002]

i tried the 2100 but had more luck with the stock 1900 springs and the x'click preload adjuster for sag and preload adjustment. (The stock springs settle pretty quick) I found the 2100 springs to be very harsh in all conditions when combined with my shock revalve. They might improve handling with stock damping.......I would doubt it.

search the forum......you wont see one anyone that hasnt realized a huge improvement with a shock revalve. I think even Ross @ Hygear was suggesting (last year) the stock springs.....and he's in the business of selling you bits and bobs etc. .LOL.

what is Carver saying ?

I'm 240 lbs btw.