Nytro Nork
Extreme
I noticed today as i was moving my sled around that if i pushed down on the rear grab bar that my suspension would bottow out and stay there until i picked the whole rear end off the ground and it seemed to reset itself. I could push on the grab bar and it was nice and stiff again, but it bottomed out on me again later and i picked it up again and it was fine. has anyone had this issue ?
woolyviper
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- Mar 24, 2006
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- hibbing,mn
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- Snowmobile
- 2009 Yamaha Phazer RTX
i think its a function of just compressing the rear and not having center pushing back (transfer). if you are sitting on it, the center transfers to the rear
Nytro Nork
Extreme
Ohh mabee.. Hopefully its not the shock. I bought it in the middle of summer and havent even tried it yet..lol.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
If you're on dollies, try it without. Problem will be gone. Typical of all torsion spring design rears.
Nytro Nork
Extreme
ahicks said:
It only seems to do it when i take it off the dollies and is fine when i have to pick it up to put it back on them.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
<<<It only seems to do it when i take it off the dollies and is fine when i have to pick it up to put it back on them.>>>
I'm not clear on what you're saying.
What I'm asking you to try is with the sled on a reasonably flat surface, and no dollies under it ANYWHERE (front or rear), you should be fine.
I'm not clear on what you're saying.
What I'm asking you to try is with the sled on a reasonably flat surface, and no dollies under it ANYWHERE (front or rear), you should be fine.
sly23
Extreme
Mine does the same thing even on the groud. It sags right to the blocks and stays stuck there? Whats the deal!
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
sly23 said:
Do you have the ski springs cranked way up? That'll make it act just like it's on dollies...
sly23
Extreme
What do you mean by ski springs? Sorry somewhat of a rookie here with this sled lol
And hows the snow in Gaylord? I'll be heading up to my cottage at the end of the month and the snow is looking promising!
And hows the snow in Gaylord? I'll be heading up to my cottage at the end of the month and the snow is looking promising!
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I ran about 10 miles last Friday just testing. Pretty rocky. Glad I wasn't up expecting to do a lot of riding.
Ski springs, um, the ones that hold the front end up? Or maybe you have a set of the Fox Floats instead of springs? :^)
A lot of guys go for the Sno X look by cranking a lot of preload into those front springs. It's one of the most common setup problems I've seen. Not only does doing that screw with what you have going on with the skid setup, it introduces early inside ski lift when playing in the twisties - like WOW. So no matter how nice it makes the sled look, it's not worth it...
Ski springs, um, the ones that hold the front end up? Or maybe you have a set of the Fox Floats instead of springs? :^)
A lot of guys go for the Sno X look by cranking a lot of preload into those front springs. It's one of the most common setup problems I've seen. Not only does doing that screw with what you have going on with the skid setup, it introduces early inside ski lift when playing in the twisties - like WOW. So no matter how nice it makes the sled look, it's not worth it...
sly23 said:
sly23
Extreme
Oh alright ya my sleds got fox floats with the clickers. I have them set at 65 psi and i forget the click set up, i've got them written down somewhere. But its fairly soft they compress nicely when I shift my weight.
jaegerc
Newbie
I experienced the same problem with "Sticking", actually suspension hysteresis. I would raise the rear of the sled and then set it down on the gruond, measure the rear bumper height. I would then stand in riding position, and get off, no jumping or anything, and re-measure the height. I would have a solid 3-4" difference as the suspension would not return to the same height. This is to be expected all suspensions have a certin amount of hysteresis but 3-4" is totally unacceptable even measured way back at the bumper. It was preventing me from acurately setting my sag and actually interferes with the performance of the shock and springs.
I thought the problem would be in spring settings, track tension or something like that but no, it's in the grease.
If you pull your whole skid out of the sled and tear down every joint you will notice that not all of them have grease zirks, and that even the ones that do and are greased regularly get dirty and full of contaminates. So I have made it a habbit of taking the whole skid out every year and tearing it completely down so all the joints can be throughly cleaned and re-greased. Once I started doing that my hysteresis went down to 0.5-1" of hysteresis depending on the temperature during measurement.
I have to say I was highly disappointed in the amount of slop found in all the rear skid components, as well as the lack of grease zirks on EVERY component. I thought it was a yamaha thing until I tore down some AC and Polaris sleds and found they are the exact same way.
Also you may want to pull your bogie wheels and re-grease them like you would your jack shaft. Easy way to save a few bucks on new wheels and bearings.
I thought the problem would be in spring settings, track tension or something like that but no, it's in the grease.
If you pull your whole skid out of the sled and tear down every joint you will notice that not all of them have grease zirks, and that even the ones that do and are greased regularly get dirty and full of contaminates. So I have made it a habbit of taking the whole skid out every year and tearing it completely down so all the joints can be throughly cleaned and re-greased. Once I started doing that my hysteresis went down to 0.5-1" of hysteresis depending on the temperature during measurement.
I have to say I was highly disappointed in the amount of slop found in all the rear skid components, as well as the lack of grease zirks on EVERY component. I thought it was a yamaha thing until I tore down some AC and Polaris sleds and found they are the exact same way.
Also you may want to pull your bogie wheels and re-grease them like you would your jack shaft. Easy way to save a few bucks on new wheels and bearings.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
I think you'll find a lot of what your talking about, regarding the torsion spring type suspensions anyway, will be due to the scrubbing affect of the long end of the torsion bar against whatever it runs on.
Most guys demancding top suspension performance will have their skids out - at least - once a season, for lubrication, and crack inspection.
Most guys demancding top suspension performance will have their skids out - at least - once a season, for lubrication, and crack inspection.
sly23
Extreme
Alright thanks for the info guys. I wish I could have done this for this season, but I guess it will have to wait for next summer to be done.
Enjoy the riding!!
Enjoy the riding!!
