yamadooman
Extreme
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2005
- Messages
- 62
- Reaction score
- 18
- Points
- 858
- Location
- New Prague, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2023 SRX
I weigh approx 220# with gear on.. I'm going to be riding mainly groomed trails in Northern MN and Northern WI, not ditch banging or jumping.. Would like a nice cushy ride, but don't want to bottom too much.. Any ideas where to start with rear skid settings?? It is a 2008 FX Nytro (std).. thanks in advance, Chad
stewartb
Expert
This link is an Ohlins manual and some of the information won't apply to your sled, but most of it will. Every rider should read this manual before they tweak any suspension settings.
http://www.ohlins.com/Portals/0/documen ... 30-02A.pdf
http://www.ohlins.com/Portals/0/documen ... 30-02A.pdf
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
Awesome link to the Ohlins PDF.
Rash
Expert
YA...EXCELLENT LINK TO ADJUST SUSPENSION..
Traildale
Extreme
I have the same sled, ride the same areas, and am close in weight.
Try these settings - maybe adjust one at a time so you can feel the effect of each:
1) rear suspension spring on medium (firm can be a bit harsh and the moderate rebound damping on the rear shock will allow the rear end to kick back) - Add compression damping if still bottoming, or decrease compression damping of the ride is too harsh.
2) front limiter strap - the most common change for trail riding is to shorten the strap 2 holes. This reduces the weight transfer and helps keep the skis on the ground on the trails. If you were ditch riding, you would want the straps in the stock position so you could pull the skis up very easily. Groomed trail riding is very different than ditch riding - which is what the Nyrto is initially set up for.
3) ski shocks - lift the sled off the ground - loosen the preload all the way until the springs are loose - tighten until they don't rattle up and down, and then turn the preload rings 2 full turns. This is a minimum amount of preload (soft). This helps reduce inside ski lift, gives a better trail ride, and I've never bottomed the front suspension at this setting. Adjust the compression damping to not be harsh on the stutter bumps. Stock is I think 6 clicks out from full in. I'm at 8 clicks out (out of 12).
4) finally you can adjust the preload on the center skid shock spring. Once you have everything else where you like it, you can uses this last adjustment to fine tune things - try it firmer and softer and see which you like better.
5) rear coupling blocks - aftermarket coupling blocks can really make a difference if you stick to groomed trails. If the sled is still giving you too much weight transfer with the stock blocks, these can be a big help.
Try these settings - maybe adjust one at a time so you can feel the effect of each:
1) rear suspension spring on medium (firm can be a bit harsh and the moderate rebound damping on the rear shock will allow the rear end to kick back) - Add compression damping if still bottoming, or decrease compression damping of the ride is too harsh.
2) front limiter strap - the most common change for trail riding is to shorten the strap 2 holes. This reduces the weight transfer and helps keep the skis on the ground on the trails. If you were ditch riding, you would want the straps in the stock position so you could pull the skis up very easily. Groomed trail riding is very different than ditch riding - which is what the Nyrto is initially set up for.
3) ski shocks - lift the sled off the ground - loosen the preload all the way until the springs are loose - tighten until they don't rattle up and down, and then turn the preload rings 2 full turns. This is a minimum amount of preload (soft). This helps reduce inside ski lift, gives a better trail ride, and I've never bottomed the front suspension at this setting. Adjust the compression damping to not be harsh on the stutter bumps. Stock is I think 6 clicks out from full in. I'm at 8 clicks out (out of 12).
4) finally you can adjust the preload on the center skid shock spring. Once you have everything else where you like it, you can uses this last adjustment to fine tune things - try it firmer and softer and see which you like better.
5) rear coupling blocks - aftermarket coupling blocks can really make a difference if you stick to groomed trails. If the sled is still giving you too much weight transfer with the stock blocks, these can be a big help.
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2007
- Messages
- 925
- Reaction score
- 43
- Points
- 738
- Location
- Souris, Manitoba
- Website
- presdwr.spaces.live.com
I have the front dialed in great on mine, my issue is that I can not find a happy medium for my rear to stop bottoming. If I increase the compression one click, it bucks and tosses me. The springs I am not sure. I tried at H, but the sled handled better at medium I felt.
