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Rear Torsion Spring Adjuster Blocks

rotax454

rotax454

Pro
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
161
Location
Riverview, Michigan
Having the same problem as most with the rear skid sag issue (some more than others), does anyone make a different adjust block?

Maybe a taller unit in the "hard" position? Or a four-sided unit?

HELP!!

Without the benefit of a different (higher spring rate) torsion spring, not much left to do other then moving the spring arm position points.
Funny thing is, the older Phazer 485's had factory available higher torsion spring rates as an option part. Both of my early sleds had them along with the FOX shocks in the skid as well as the front struts.
 

Do you have the RTX's springs in there? they are stiffer then the Fx.
 
They also offer a race kit.I believe those are heavier.Sag is from stiction in skid and the gap at the coil where it goes on shaft.Hygear sells a spacer for that.Stiction all you can do is clean and grease skid.Was also issues with link and shaft pivot is on for 07's if it wasnt updated.
 
The RTX are 2500s and they make a big difference and should be near the top of the list for all Phazer owners. Shop around on price though, as I recall they were about $80/piece adn that's the best I found.

There are x-clicks for Phazers, they sell blems on ebay for like $25/pair. $40 otherwise. They offer different variations the spring settings than does the stock block, the 2nd setting is close to the hard setting stock. I use the 3rd now and like it with the 2500 spring on my MTX ditch-banger.
 
yamahas said:
Do you have the RTX's springs in there? they are stiffer then the Fx.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm. Pulled out my parts listings and this is what I found (supports what I have been told by several Phazer aftermarket performance suppliers)

2007 Phazer FX rear torsion springs #8GC-47473-00-00 & 8GC-47474-00-00 Both are the same part numbers as the 2010 RTX.

The #8GC = 2500NMM/DEG spring
#8GK = 2100NMM/DEG spring
#8GP = 1700NMM/DEG sprng

The only higher rated torsion spring was the unit supplied in the
SMA-8GCRA-CE-KT Factory Phazer Race Kit.

If you have direct knowledge of these race torsion springs, please post here. If not, please don't type-------just view and learn.
 
Amo said:
The RTX are 2500s and they make a big difference and should be near the top of the list for all Phazer owners. Shop around on price though, as I recall they were about $80/piece adn that's the best I found.

There are x-clicks for Phazers, they sell blems on ebay for like $25/pair. $40 otherwise. They offer different variations the spring settings than does the stock block, the 2nd setting is close to the hard setting stock. I use the 3rd now and like it with the 2500 spring on my MTX ditch-banger.
Click to expand...

Please, what is this "x-clicks". Supplier? Website? More info Please.
 
i think i've seen them in shadetree or denniskirk for the x-clicks. they have 4 pos.

the torsion spacers will raise the rear some. from hygear or make your own. up a 1/2" or so.
 
rotax454 said:
yamahas said:
Do you have the RTX's springs in there? they are stiffer then the Fx.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm. Pulled out my parts listings and this is what I found (supports what I have been told by several Phazer aftermarket performance suppliers)

2007 Phazer FX rear torsion springs #8GC-47473-00-00 & 8GC-47474-00-00 Both are the same part numbers as the 2010 RTX.

The #8GC = 2500NMM/DEG spring
#8GK = 2100NMM/DEG spring
#8GP = 1700NMM/DEG sprng

The only higher rated torsion spring was the unit supplied in the
SMA-8GCRA-CE-KT Factory Phazer Race Kit.

If you have direct knowledge of these race torsion springs, please post here. If not, please don't type-------just view and learn.
Click to expand...

I asked ulmer about stiffer springs for my stock phazer RTX. He informed me that the 2500 one came on my sled from the factory.

Edit: My bad i ment GT not FX
 
spike337 said:
Is your skid too soft? Or are you just worried about the sag? They all sag.
Click to expand...

Yamahas: No problem-----all good.

Spike337: Like many on here, just trying to limit the sag in the rear skid. As I learn more about the handling characteristics of the rear suspension, some sag is good considering the total amount of travel it has to offer.
 
^ looks like good stuff

Rotax, I had a problem with the excessive sag. So over the summer I took my skid apart and completely cleaned everything. The grease had become a think paste even with pumping new grease in there twice a season. I think the grease that stays in there and gets old/wet causes too much friction and the springs cant push the sled back up.

So I have about 1000km's on it so far and still have only about half an inch of sag when i get off the sled. When i get on it only looses 2 inches of travel.

I have the block set to medium and loving the ride.

I based on the results i have so far i plan on cleaning it out every season.
 
I have to agree with yamahas, my skid was DRY when I took it apart this summer, 790 miles on the sled and there was just a thin film of grease here and there. I took ALOT of grease to get everything lubed up. Now with 1300 miles on the sled the rear bumper only sags 2" when I set it down and another 2" when I get on. I get off the sled and it pops right back up. This is with the WEAK 1700nm MTX springs set to hard. The ONLY time I find the rear lacking is when I land tail heavy when I catch air, this causes the rear arm to bottom EASY.

I've also noticed that my MTX does NOT suffer from the nasty kickback that most short track riders seem complain about. I think its more of a rear SHOCK issue with horrible stock valving and people try to cure the bottoming buy installing stiffer springs instead. Also, move your weight forward, this skid is designed to carry the weight of the rider over the front skid arm and let the center shock do the work.
 
+1 with the disassembly/reassembly solution...Bought my sled used with 400 miles and as general maintenance and exploration, I decided to look at the skid after ready a few problems here on TY...After disassembly, I noticed many dry spots to important areas. That being said, I loaded internal shafts/bushings/anything I could get my hands on with Bel-Ray Synthetic WATERPROOF grease. Im a huge fan of the stuff and it seemed to help tremendously. Ill return back at the end of the season to this thread to discuss how well it lasted, but it seems as though Yamaha is on the cheap side when it comes to grease as they probably use a general purpose petro grease that turns runny with a little friction. Im curious to see how this waterproof stuff will last.? Only way to find out is riding...
 
I just put x clicks on my 07 gt and am very happy with them. Cheap and super easy way to get a little more spring rate out back.
 
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