ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,503
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Guys,
this motor is FIXED,not like older sleds mounted on rubber mounts...there is little to no flex on apexs of motor under acceleration...
the SPEC from YAMAHA is 15MM...doing ot by eye running it on stand will NOT set it where you want it...the secondary when run on stand will float inward under acceleration and outward on deceleration,so if you do it by eye your guessing...
Yammie gives a spec of 15mm so that is what i am going by.
Sledfreak,you crack me up...your making it harder then it is...ofcourse you will see the O ring still,the O ring is HARD rubber,it wont get compressed or dissapear..LOL....its just so you dont SIDELOAD the jacksjaft bearing as i stated originally......i took the pics so you could see what i did,just do EXACTLY what i said in pics and it will be right.
there is no OFFSET or TAPER built into the 15mm spec in front to rear measurment....its 15mm both front and rear....parallel.
I believe this will increase belt life,reason is that the secondary is made to float into position,BUT in actuallity under heavy acceleration loads it CANNOT float over and back due to belt loading it,this is why from factory there is so much grease/lube on jackshaft....
fixing it at yamahas spec of 15mm puts it into correct positions ALWAYS...no worries then if its floating or not to correct spot...
ALL other manufacturers have gone to the fixed secondary now,except yammie...and IMO there is gains to be had...maybe not huge noticeable gains but every trick adds up.
Dan
this motor is FIXED,not like older sleds mounted on rubber mounts...there is little to no flex on apexs of motor under acceleration...
the SPEC from YAMAHA is 15MM...doing ot by eye running it on stand will NOT set it where you want it...the secondary when run on stand will float inward under acceleration and outward on deceleration,so if you do it by eye your guessing...
Yammie gives a spec of 15mm so that is what i am going by.
Sledfreak,you crack me up...your making it harder then it is...ofcourse you will see the O ring still,the O ring is HARD rubber,it wont get compressed or dissapear..LOL....its just so you dont SIDELOAD the jacksjaft bearing as i stated originally......i took the pics so you could see what i did,just do EXACTLY what i said in pics and it will be right.
there is no OFFSET or TAPER built into the 15mm spec in front to rear measurment....its 15mm both front and rear....parallel.
I believe this will increase belt life,reason is that the secondary is made to float into position,BUT in actuallity under heavy acceleration loads it CANNOT float over and back due to belt loading it,this is why from factory there is so much grease/lube on jackshaft....
fixing it at yamahas spec of 15mm puts it into correct positions ALWAYS...no worries then if its floating or not to correct spot...
ALL other manufacturers have gone to the fixed secondary now,except yammie...and IMO there is gains to be had...maybe not huge noticeable gains but every trick adds up.
Dan
dirkdiggler
Suspended
I'm not saying do it by eye running it on a stand. If you lock the seondary down and fallow the process I gave when the track stops spinning and you kill the motor the belt is going to be in it's natrual posistion. You will plainly see which direction you need to shim the secondary.
Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I followed the directions from this article listed below found in the technical pages under RX-1 Clutch Alignment....Fixed or Floating and I got 2 different results. The Correct way: when adjusted properly (15mm offset) I can clearly see that the belt is out of alignment. Alternate way: when aligned properly (center to center) and checking the offset it is 18.5mm on the money. I am wondering if the 15mm spec. is correct. I agree that it needs to be fixed but the 15mm spec. is not correct, for my sled anyway. I also checked the measurement another way. Measure the width of the primary, mine was 81mm then the secondary mine was 44mm. Subtract the width of the secondary from the width of the primary and I get 37mm. Divide that by 2 and I get 18.5. You also have to compensate for the washers if you installed them to adjust the belt height.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... hAlign.htm
The Correct way:
1. Remove the Drive belt and Secondary
2. Add appx 2-40 thous thick shims to the Jackshaft. Reinstall Secondary making sure youve tightened the 14 MM bolt.
3. Using an offset tool check to make sure the offset is 15MM from the back of the secondary to the back of the primary. If not, remove secondary and add or subtract shims until the offset is perfect.
4. Reinstall secondary and belt and your done. This will lock your secondary into place and will not allow it to move on the shaft.
Alternate way:
1. Remove the Drive belt
2. Get a 18" piece of steel straight edge (or mechanics ruler), make sure its straight.
3. Open up the sheaves on the secondary and slide the straight edge all the way down to the bottom of the sheaves.
4. Let the secondary close so it pinches the straight edge making sure the other end is resting on the center primary bushing.
5. Take a look at where the straight edge comes to rest in the primary.
6. You want it perfectly centered on the shiny part (where the belt rubs)
7. To move the straight edge outwards, Take the secondary off and add shims until you get the straight edge to come to rest perfectly centered in the primary. Usually about .040 to .080 are how far they are off.
In conclusion, you can do whatever you wish with your clutches. But if you want longer lasting belts, cooler running clutches, and better performing sleds, you may want to try
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... hAlign.htm
The Correct way:
1. Remove the Drive belt and Secondary
2. Add appx 2-40 thous thick shims to the Jackshaft. Reinstall Secondary making sure youve tightened the 14 MM bolt.
3. Using an offset tool check to make sure the offset is 15MM from the back of the secondary to the back of the primary. If not, remove secondary and add or subtract shims until the offset is perfect.
4. Reinstall secondary and belt and your done. This will lock your secondary into place and will not allow it to move on the shaft.
Alternate way:
1. Remove the Drive belt
2. Get a 18" piece of steel straight edge (or mechanics ruler), make sure its straight.
3. Open up the sheaves on the secondary and slide the straight edge all the way down to the bottom of the sheaves.
4. Let the secondary close so it pinches the straight edge making sure the other end is resting on the center primary bushing.
5. Take a look at where the straight edge comes to rest in the primary.
6. You want it perfectly centered on the shiny part (where the belt rubs)
7. To move the straight edge outwards, Take the secondary off and add shims until you get the straight edge to come to rest perfectly centered in the primary. Usually about .040 to .080 are how far they are off.
In conclusion, you can do whatever you wish with your clutches. But if you want longer lasting belts, cooler running clutches, and better performing sleds, you may want to try
Attachments
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
machzed said:
Where does Yamaha post this 15mm spec?
Yamaha service manual states: Sheave offset, 15mm, (+ or -) 1.5mm
Reading is 13.5 to 16.5mm
I agree with mrance111 that you get two different reading when you do it both ways.
I'm thinking that as the belt moves towards shiftout on the primary it moves inward towards the engine or bulkhead on the primary because of the shape of the clutch sheaves, and the shape of the sheaves on the secondary moves the belt also.
I'm thinking at full shift out the 15mm setting is where the belt is straight.
If you took the springs out of both clutches and simulated full shift out with the belt, I'm thinking the 15mm setting would be about right.
I've never tried this, and I could be totally wrong.
Reading is 13.5 to 16.5mm
I agree with mrance111 that you get two different reading when you do it both ways.
I'm thinking that as the belt moves towards shiftout on the primary it moves inward towards the engine or bulkhead on the primary because of the shape of the clutch sheaves, and the shape of the sheaves on the secondary moves the belt also.
I'm thinking at full shift out the 15mm setting is where the belt is straight.
If you took the springs out of both clutches and simulated full shift out with the belt, I'm thinking the 15mm setting would be about right.
I've never tried this, and I could be totally wrong.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,503
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
hey guys...
I am not positive where the 15mm spec came from originally...i found it over on spec sections for clutching specs on rx1s and was told apexs are same spec..
I think IF THE 15mm SPEC IF CORRECT,my method is good...BUT,IF THE 15MM SPEC IS WRONG then you need to use another spec.
I did find that my STOCK APEX was shimmed at 17.5-18mm of offset....and floated to approx 21mm
dan
I am not positive where the 15mm spec came from originally...i found it over on spec sections for clutching specs on rx1s and was told apexs are same spec..
I think IF THE 15mm SPEC IF CORRECT,my method is good...BUT,IF THE 15MM SPEC IS WRONG then you need to use another spec.
I did find that my STOCK APEX was shimmed at 17.5-18mm of offset....and floated to approx 21mm
dan
blackGt
Veteran
The dealer that prepped my sled told me that the primary and secondary clutches are supposed to be offset som when you hit the gas they will straighten out.
Jona$
Master
So when the sheaves start to move a 15mm would be correct, but at standstill the 18.5mm would bec correct but wrong when start to move?
And i believed that just letting it roll of to standstill and check that belt had the same distance to the fixed sheave as the floating one in the primary would be 100% correct, but now that seem to be 100% wrong?
And i believed that just letting it roll of to standstill and check that belt had the same distance to the fixed sheave as the floating one in the primary would be 100% correct, but now that seem to be 100% wrong?
