REMOVING SKID FROM WARRIOR

[4strokelover87]

Alright, so after some discussion in another thread I have decided to go with the doo extroverts. I just ordered them thismorning for $46 each....not bad!!! I have never changed drivers before and I an going to assume the track and skid must be removed. While I have it out, I will need to cut the remaining windows out of the track and I also ordered clips to fully clip my track. I also have 162 woodys with ultralite backers to put in!! While I have the skid off, I will also be installing the fourth wheel kit on the rear axle.

My question is...is there anything to watch for and any helpful or time saving pointers anyone can offer me??? I know many of you have pulled skids before, probably multiple times, this being my first, I'm a little nervous...

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks guys!!! This is a great site!!!

 

[4strokelover87]

Well, just got a reply from the skidoo parts distributer I ordered the sprockets from and skidoo is not offering just the drivers anymore (I think I remember someone mentioning this earlier)....they only offer the drive axle assembly for $162....should I go with a different driver???

 

[edge_kw]

Call Hartman's for the drivers.
With a stock skid, you'll have to trim each driver lug slightly to clear the top bar of the W arm. (don't ask me how I learned that!!)
Not to bad of a job for the dis-assembling/re-assembling everything else. Installing the chain case (w/ reverse) will probably require some extra swearing though.....!!!

 

[Rockmeister]

I just finished doing this!

Have a bunch of info with mounting dimensions and pics here:

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698

Hope this helps!

 

[4strokelover87]

OK, so I started ripping my Warrior apart tonight....trying to make it look like Rock's did...haha...I got the chain case removed and the speedo sensor removed, I also have all six bolts out of the skid. My question is this...on the speedo side, what has to come loose or apart to let the shaft slide towards the chaincase side and out of the tunnel??? It looks to me like the shaft needs to come out of the bearing but I don't want to force it too much until I'm sure.....can someone please advise....????

Thanks!!!!

 

[Rockmeister]

OK, so I started ripping my Warrior apart tonight....trying to make it look like Rock's did...haha...I got the chain case removed and the speedo sensor removed, I also have all six bolts out of the skid. My question is this...on the speedo side, what has to come loose or apart to let the shaft slide towards the chaincase side and out of the tunnel??? It looks to me like the shaft needs to come out of the bearing but I don't want to force it too much until I'm sure.....can someone please advise....????

Thanks!!!!

Hey Jaron,

Lol @ making it look like mine did, ya oughta see it right now!.

There is a cover plate over the speedo end bearing, the sensor was mounted on it.
Take the nuts off the plate and remove the plate.

Spray the bearing center with PB Blaster and let it soak where it meets the shaft.

Then down just INSIDE the tunnel there are two T20 torx set screws you have to loosen on the tunnel side of the bearing.
If you can't see them, rotate the shaft, they are about 90 degrees apart.
Most likely the bearing wont just slide off the shaft, you will have to tap the chaincase end of the driveshaft with a DEADBLOW hammer, NOT a regular hammer.
If you don't have a deadblow, use a block of wood against the shaft and a hand sledge to tap the wood block to drive the shaft and bearing towards the speedo end.
This will drive the bearing out towards the speedo end.
(Do NOT hit this or any shaft directly with a regular metal hammer!)

Once you have the shaft loose, you will most likely need a 2 or 3 finger puller on the speedo end to pull the bearing.
When bearing is off, drop the shaft on the chaincase end and slide it out.

Hope this helps!

 

[Rockmeister]

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=65619

More info on the Doo drivers.
Everything I have read say the Doo drivers are the toughest.

Hopefully Mike will have a year posted by the time you see it.

 

[4strokelover87]

Alright....I'll give this a shot tonight!!! I just didn't want to go hitting on the wrong thing and regret it later...plus it was getting late anyway....haha!!! I actually gave up on the doo drivers and ended up ordering a pair of Wahl Bros...no shimming required and they are turning them down a bit for clearance of my W-arm!!! I think about $170 with shipping....I'm supposed to have them tomorrow!!! Not that I'll be ready for them, but I'm happy I'm getting them before the holidays!!! I'm going to try to get my skid out tonight and either start on the skid mods or the track mods, either way I've got some work ahead of me!!! And....after I get this all back together, I get to try to figure out why I all of a sudden lost power to my temp gauge....hmmmm....I HATE electrical crap!!!

Thanks Rock!!!

 

[maxdlx]

You can also remove the rivets holding the inside bearing plate in place and pull it and the bearing out with the shaft. Works slick and the bolts hold it in place when reassembled. Maxdlx

 

[Rockmeister]

You are welcome!

You can also remove the rivets holding the inside bearing plate in place and pull it and the bearing out with the shaft. Works slick and the bolts hold it in place when reassembled. Maxdlx

Ooooohhhh, Great Idea!

Just have to lower the speedo end first then!

 

[4strokelover87]

By "rivots" are you talking about the studs that the plate on the outside of the tunnel mounted to? I've seen these before and they are just lightly pressed in??? Knock those out to release the inside cover plate??

 

[Rockmeister]

The rivets are small and between the studs.
One is shown in the pic (It's black), the rivet is BELOW the red arrow.
(The red arrow is showing a drilled re-grease hole for a grease needle, great mod!)

You will need a dremel or a small hand grinder to grind them off on the side you see in the pic, then knock them out towards the inside of the tunnel using a punch.

Be careful to ONLY grind the rivet.

 

[maxdlx]

Air chisel works good too Maxdlx

 

[4strokelover87]

Ok, so I'm assuming I will need to rivot it back on when reinstalling...????

 

[Rockmeister]

As maxdlx said, just bolt it back together, the bolts will hold it, no rivits needed.