bobber
Extreme
On my Apex the sliders are due to be replaced. Worn a LOT in the mid section! Did have to travel about 20 klik's on a winter road, 2-up, when the trail got very rough.
Picked up some graphite sliders so now trying to figure out if cutting 2 windows will cause problems with the track. Kinda thinking not as most other manufactures have windows wide enough to change the sliders.
Anyone have pictures of a track with enlarged windows?
On a side note had friend out for a ride. First time she's been on a sled in 30 years. And third time for me taking this sled of a truck deck. Warm weather, above 0. Didn't realize how fast these things 'spool' up.. especially in reverse! Tumbled off side of ramp taking out headlight pod and windshield. Bent handlebars but straightened those out.
Picked up some graphite sliders so now trying to figure out if cutting 2 windows will cause problems with the track. Kinda thinking not as most other manufactures have windows wide enough to change the sliders.
Anyone have pictures of a track with enlarged windows?
On a side note had friend out for a ride. First time she's been on a sled in 30 years. And third time for me taking this sled of a truck deck. Warm weather, above 0. Didn't realize how fast these things 'spool' up.. especially in reverse! Tumbled off side of ramp taking out headlight pod and windshield. Bent handlebars but straightened those out.
dave_dj1
Pro
sorry to hear about your "spool up issue" lol
glad you're ok
i change my hyfax through the stock windows, a little coaxing and some wd40 then grab them with the vicegrips and yank.
when i put the new ones on i grind a little bevel on the back two sides so it makes them come back through the windows easier next time. I also put neverseize on the sliders before i install them, use wd40 on the way back in also, on the track window.
glad you're ok
i change my hyfax through the stock windows, a little coaxing and some wd40 then grab them with the vicegrips and yank.
when i put the new ones on i grind a little bevel on the back two sides so it makes them come back through the windows easier next time. I also put neverseize on the sliders before i install them, use wd40 on the way back in also, on the track window.
rambunctious
Veteran
I have had luck pulling old ones off by pealing the outer edge using a channel lock piers
and installing new ones with dish soap and a little water in the channel of the hyfax, slides on much easier.
Ramb
and installing new ones with dish soap and a little water in the channel of the hyfax, slides on much easier.
Ramb
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
No pictures, but you can heat up an exacto knife and simply cut one of the windows to make it slightly wider to get the hyfax out.bobber said:
A really simple trick is to pull the hyfax out 2-3 cm through the window, then with your track off the ground, simply put the sled in reverse and tap the throttle. It will peel the hyfax right off.
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
only need to trim side of windows about a 1/4 inch. they come right through, no problem
CaptCaper
TY 4 Stroke God
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I trimmed my windows shaped like a dove tail with t wider part at bottom since hyfax is wider there as well. That way there the whole window doesn't have to be cut out. No found no need to trim upper part of window.
bobber
Extreme
Decided to remove the skid after. The sliders I purchased are graphite so hoping they last a long time. 2 hrs later and by myself with a ratchet strap... said a few words! LOL
Also bought a set of running board mounted ice scratchers. Haven't installed yet as want to figure out best position to mount... they sure seem to have a LOT of tension.
Also bought a set of running board mounted ice scratchers. Haven't installed yet as want to figure out best position to mount... they sure seem to have a LOT of tension.
2XM3
Extreme
Remove skid to bench, takes 5 minutes. Rubber hammer, hyfax slides right off or to the drill hole and slide hammer trick,even better. I went to hyperfax, shows no wear so far quite a change. Taking the skid out is so easy it's not worth fighting the track hole
bobber
Extreme
2XM3 said:
After looking at the track windows and the effort probably needed to get the sliders off and re-installed I felt be just as quick to pull frame. Don't think I'll do it myself again... frustrating getting the mounts lined up seeing as how the arms lay down. With 2 people probably be an hours job.
Was nervous about the wiring for the shock. Traced the harness back to the connecter by reverse lever and let go there. To remove from shock looks like a desperation move!
wildbonz
Extreme
If you are tired of changing your sliders all the time you can try this trick; we actually cut ALL the windows 1/4 inch wider on each side of each window with a utility knife. It takes quite a while and will give you Popeye forearms but is worth it.
The camoplast windows are too narrow. Opening them up like this allows more lubrication and doesn't significantly weaken the track. Takes a bit of weight off as well, may actually almost counter the added weight of the studs. We used to get about 500 miles only and have significant wear on the sliders. Now after 500 they look new.
A marginal wheel kit also helps, and if you're really having troubles, Polaris wheels are a bit wider and will help if you switch to them.
The camoplast windows are too narrow. Opening them up like this allows more lubrication and doesn't significantly weaken the track. Takes a bit of weight off as well, may actually almost counter the added weight of the studs. We used to get about 500 miles only and have significant wear on the sliders. Now after 500 they look new.
A marginal wheel kit also helps, and if you're really having troubles, Polaris wheels are a bit wider and will help if you switch to them.
apex yooper
Expert
Bonz,
You must have some really light studs. What do you do about the 30# of ice on your skid?
You must have some really light studs. What do you do about the 30# of ice on your skid?
torque monster
Extreme
I agree with rambunctious, use soap-it will dry up, oil or never seize just makes a mess and attarcts dirt!, May create problems later.
danq
Expert
wildbonz said:
Maybe a stupid question, but if the holes are wider, doesn't the track move left or right to the edge of the holes? What keeps the track aligned? Will it cause the lugs inside the track to rub on the wheels with more force than normal?
wildbonz
Extreme
apex yooper, yeah it obviously wouldn't equal the weight of the studs but with two pieces cut out of each window it makes quite a pile. I think the track weighs 40 lbs.
The whole point is to just widen the windows to allow a bit more snow in for lubrication. It works out to only about 1/2" per window. The rip saw windows that come with these are a bit narrow. Many other tracks have wider windows.
As for the ice build up, I never really noticed a difference before and after, I actually never thought of it until you mentioned it so it must not be significant. What was significant was the much longer life span of the slides.
The whole point is to just widen the windows to allow a bit more snow in for lubrication. It works out to only about 1/2" per window. The rip saw windows that come with these are a bit narrow. Many other tracks have wider windows.
As for the ice build up, I never really noticed a difference before and after, I actually never thought of it until you mentioned it so it must not be significant. What was significant was the much longer life span of the slides.
wildbonz
Extreme
danq, widening the windows doesn't affect the alignment. The track clips are placed kind of north/south between the windows.
To widen them you cut them out a bit east/west (toward the edge and center). You basically only need to take out the smooth part beside each window where it meets the 'ribs'. You don't need to go all the way up and down each window all the way to the clips. You probably don't even need to do every window, but we did and it works great. After about 1000 miles there is absolutely no signs of fraying or any other problems. The slides show minimal wear.
To widen them you cut them out a bit east/west (toward the edge and center). You basically only need to take out the smooth part beside each window where it meets the 'ribs'. You don't need to go all the way up and down each window all the way to the clips. You probably don't even need to do every window, but we did and it works great. After about 1000 miles there is absolutely no signs of fraying or any other problems. The slides show minimal wear.
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