There have been a few questions on programming the '03 handwarmers to not default to high everytime you start the sled. I though I would repost the instructions with a few additions and corrections.
Mr. Sled is this worthy of the Tech pages?
First, I need to give credit where credit is due. LB was a lot of the brains behind this fix.
You need an Omron H3YN-2-DC12 timer (or one that functions the same). You can buy it here:
http://www.e-sonic.com/electrosonic/pro ... ++++++++++
This is a Canadian company and with shipping it worked out to $65 US. I'm hoping someone on here can find it cheaper.
I HIGHLY recomend buying part (Omron) H3YN-2-DC12. This is a socket to plug the timer into. This allows you to do all of your wiring to the socket and not risk breaking the timer.
The timer has dip switches on it and the need to be set as follows: The time range should be 1 min. and the operating mode should be "interval".
The settings would be like this:
Time Range:
Top switch should be to the left or towards the rear of the switch.
Bottom switch should be to the right or towards the front of the switch.
This will set the timer to one minute. From there turn the dial to aprox. .2 (point two).
Mode:
Top switch should be to the right or towards the front of the switch.
Bottom switch should be to the left or the back of the switch.
This will set the timer to interval mode.
The dial on the front should be set to the .2 setting. You can fine tune this to your liking.
What this timer does is basically hold down your hand and thumb warmer buttons for the amount of time you set the dial for. When set at .2 it holds down the buttons for .2 minutes (12 seconds) as soon as you start your sled. I have not tried a lower setting but in theory you could have it hold down the button long enough to only turn the warmers down partially, say half way, if you wanted.
Now here is how to hook it all up.............
You will notice that the socket and timer have number pins. You will be connecting wires to these by either soldering or using wire terminals. I tood the lazy/easy route and used the wire terminals.
Remove the handle bar cover and foam pad. Each warmer has three wires going to it.
On the thumbside find the pale green wire with Blue stripe. SPLICE in to that wire and connect it to pin #8. Notice I said SPLICE. Do NOT cut the wire. Simply use splicing terminals. If you do disconnect or cut that wire you will lose your ability to adjust the warmer manually. Next splice into the black wire and connect it to #12
Now move to the handwarmer side. find the Yellow wire with blue stripe. Splice in to it and connect it to #5. Splice in to the black wire and connect to #9.
Next find the Blue wire with the white stripe that connects to you headlight dimmer switch. Splice into it and connect it to #14. This is your power source. This keeps all the wiring contained in the handle bar area.
Next run a ground wire from one of the handle bar mounting bolts to #13.
#1 and #4 are not used. They perform a diferrent function.
I used foam pipe insulation to help guard the timer then I zip tied it to the handlebars. I did it low enought that everything is covered back up by the foam and handlebar cover. You can not see anything on my sled and would have no idea it is there.
This works real slick. When you start the sled the display goes through it's normal diagnostics check then shows the hand warmer turned down. You do not see the thumb warmer being turned down, but it is. after a few seconds the gas gauge comes back on and all is normal. You still retain full manual control over the warmers
Mr. Sled is this worthy of the Tech pages?
First, I need to give credit where credit is due. LB was a lot of the brains behind this fix.
You need an Omron H3YN-2-DC12 timer (or one that functions the same). You can buy it here:
http://www.e-sonic.com/electrosonic/pro ... ++++++++++
This is a Canadian company and with shipping it worked out to $65 US. I'm hoping someone on here can find it cheaper.
I HIGHLY recomend buying part (Omron) H3YN-2-DC12. This is a socket to plug the timer into. This allows you to do all of your wiring to the socket and not risk breaking the timer.
The timer has dip switches on it and the need to be set as follows: The time range should be 1 min. and the operating mode should be "interval".
The settings would be like this:
Time Range:
Top switch should be to the left or towards the rear of the switch.
Bottom switch should be to the right or towards the front of the switch.
This will set the timer to one minute. From there turn the dial to aprox. .2 (point two).
Mode:
Top switch should be to the right or towards the front of the switch.
Bottom switch should be to the left or the back of the switch.
This will set the timer to interval mode.
The dial on the front should be set to the .2 setting. You can fine tune this to your liking.
What this timer does is basically hold down your hand and thumb warmer buttons for the amount of time you set the dial for. When set at .2 it holds down the buttons for .2 minutes (12 seconds) as soon as you start your sled. I have not tried a lower setting but in theory you could have it hold down the button long enough to only turn the warmers down partially, say half way, if you wanted.
Now here is how to hook it all up.............
You will notice that the socket and timer have number pins. You will be connecting wires to these by either soldering or using wire terminals. I tood the lazy/easy route and used the wire terminals.
Remove the handle bar cover and foam pad. Each warmer has three wires going to it.
On the thumbside find the pale green wire with Blue stripe. SPLICE in to that wire and connect it to pin #8. Notice I said SPLICE. Do NOT cut the wire. Simply use splicing terminals. If you do disconnect or cut that wire you will lose your ability to adjust the warmer manually. Next splice into the black wire and connect it to #12
Now move to the handwarmer side. find the Yellow wire with blue stripe. Splice in to it and connect it to #5. Splice in to the black wire and connect to #9.
Next find the Blue wire with the white stripe that connects to you headlight dimmer switch. Splice into it and connect it to #14. This is your power source. This keeps all the wiring contained in the handle bar area.
Next run a ground wire from one of the handle bar mounting bolts to #13.
#1 and #4 are not used. They perform a diferrent function.
I used foam pipe insulation to help guard the timer then I zip tied it to the handlebars. I did it low enought that everything is covered back up by the foam and handlebar cover. You can not see anything on my sled and would have no idea it is there.
This works real slick. When you start the sled the display goes through it's normal diagnostics check then shows the hand warmer turned down. You do not see the thumb warmer being turned down, but it is. after a few seconds the gas gauge comes back on and all is normal. You still retain full manual control over the warmers
muskrat
Pro
Thanks Spray25, that is next on my list if I ever find this stupid Oil Galley Bolt. Now I know why they charge so much for an oil change. We have about 8 inches of fresh snow and I am affraid to fire it up without loosening the oil galley bolt.
RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Good post spray.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Just remember that if you don't want to go down all the way, set the time to 10-second inverval. It gives sufficient control that you can select how many bars you want the warmers to come on at. I have mine set to 3 bars.
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have done a lot to my 03 to update to 04 but this is one mod that doesn't make any sense to me to invest time and money into.
It depends on how and where you ride.
Here in the west our temperatures are higher than yours. We also stop a LOT more than you guys. I ride 99% of the time with my warmers off. If I have to turn them down everytime I stop and restart it is a real PITA. If you don't then you get up the mountain a little ways and your already sweety hands are on FIRE!!
Here in the west our temperatures are higher than yours. We also stop a LOT more than you guys. I ride 99% of the time with my warmers off. If I have to turn them down everytime I stop and restart it is a real PITA. If you don't then you get up the mountain a little ways and your already sweety hands are on FIRE!!
P.S. Sled Nazi has turned me on to another switch that I think may work. It is way cheaper. As soon as I figure out if it will work or not I will let you know.
hd_yamaha
Extreme
spray25 can you clarify the PN you mentioned two products but one PN. I notice the PN you give is for the timer. What is the PN for the socket?
Thanks
Thanks
osnuuk
Newbie
Has anybody tryed to buying a new CDI unit (2004) and put it on a 2003 M model
If you look i the manuel all the wires for the handwarmer goes into this box
i think i read somhwere that the 2004 model has a memory for the switches
If you look i the manuel all the wires for the handwarmer goes into this box
i think i read somhwere that the 2004 model has a memory for the switches
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Yeah, if you don't mind spending $900 on a CDI. (or whatever it costs)
osnuuk
Newbie
Maybe its possible to change the software inside, like you do on a car
treewhacker
Expert
What if we just put a switch on the hot side of the warmers, leave it off untill you need warmers, then you can adjust them where you want and they only come on when you need them.
treewhacker said:
That will work. Only problem is your engine light will blink until you restore power to the warmers.
osnuuk
Newbie
Free light show ! Have asked dealer for the correct price for CDI Unit, if not more than $ 200,- i take one. Will not have som timer inside falling off right when you having funn.
