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Ripsaw and Studding

Boston RX1

TY 4 Stroke Master
Joined
Apr 17, 2003
Messages
1,150
Location
Laconia, NH
I know there are many posts on this subject, but I would like to get some things cleared up. If I studd, how long should the studs be, how many, what MFG? I have also heard many differing opions as to if I need tunnel and/or heat exchanger protection. Woody's and Max Performance say no, others have said yes. My signature has all of my information. Any help would be much appreciated. I love aggressive trail rideing.
 

Rob , I have wondered the same question . I have asked stud questions for a while and I just finished studding mine last night .I went with the manufacture recommendation. I put 192 in . The only thing I did different is I put 1.15's in instead of the 1.075
I figure if everyone can put in a 1.25 track in with no problems I should be able to put in 1.15s with out it touching .
I have measured underneath and I can't see where that studs can touch but alot have had that problem.
I wonder if the studs hit or if it is something on the studs (ice ?)

You can go with less studs but I would rather loose a bit of top end than understud my track and have problems.
I don't know if manufactures say we need that many to sell more studs ??

Ger
 
Ive got 162, 1.370 studs installed on my warrior with no added protection! Thats the equivialant to 144 on a 121 in. track.

I have heard of some going to as long as 1.40 stud but they hit the exhaust shield!!

I would suggest using 1.325 studs (manufactuer doesnt matter in my opinion)

How many and what pattern is up to you !! Are you aggressive ??

If you have any more questions i can help with Email me!

welterracer@aol.com
 
I put 192 1.4 extremes on my ripsaw and still had lots of clearence. Extremes are mesured differntly than stud boy. Hope it's good to go. i will definately be doing a lot cjecking as I ride.
 
Guys cut the two soft lugs that are under the tunnel protectors off and add to the tunnel protector, then you could run any lengh stud you want.
 
Just a word of advice to all who stud the ripsaw..this thing will stretch alot when new. If you are getting any racheting, stop and tighten. I did'nt and did some rolling start races against my buddys ZR9 and ripped the heat schield completely off (120 1.325 woodys down the middle). I have'nt lost any antifreeze so I assume the heat exchanger did'nt get hit. I've since tightened up 3 1/2 turns and no racheting problems. The ripsaw hooks like crazy, just don't run it loose.
 
Mighty: I ran him 5 or 6 times and beat him everytime, which surprised both of us. Last year I was totally stock except for a Team Industries roller (which was always 4 to 5 sleds faster then a stock RX1) The ZR would alway pull me 2 or 3 sleds in the mid range, out of the hole and top were pretty equal. This year I added a ripsaw, HH's, green springs and Max performance transfers. One of these things or more likely a combination of all has really changed this thing. As far as my buddy and his ZR, I've not said to much...yet, It's early and I'm sure the next time out he'll have it running better, but I think I got his attention.
 
From my experiance, I think it was the Heavy Hitters that probably made the most improvement. In either case, Great Job!
 
yamadave..track was studded when new. no problems with loosing any studs. Just lost the heat shield. The track will stretch very fast, 1st 1/2 hour of riding, it's about the same thing I experienced last year with the finger track, but with the longer studs it must have been enough to catch the shield. You'll love the ripsaw.
 
Thanks for the information. Is it safe to say that if I stud at 100-200 miles that track will be broken in and no more strtching will occur?
 
OK, I purchased my 1.3" Megabites. How many and where do they go. I have 192, but I will not use that many. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
 


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