willie42
Newbie
Has anyone changed out the coolant on a 2006 120 Venture engine. Curious on how you performed the flush.venture2
Extreme
Hello, I didn't do a flush out because I only had 1000 miles on the machine. My goal was to replace the original antifreeze with the 5 year stuff thats on the market now, and also to get fresh inhibitors in the system.
So I raised the back of the machine, removed the rear bumper cover to gain access to the bleeder plug that is located in the crossover pipe or rear heat exchanger (if equipped with one). The bolts for the rear bumper cover are located on each side of the rear tunnel, there is two bolts on each side. The bumper cover also snaps in place on the rear section. I then removed the lower coolant hose (about 1" dia) located down below the chain case and drained the antifreeze out; also open the vent plug in the rear crossover to aid the draining and reservoir cap after draining starts. After reconnecting the hose I slowly added a mixture of 60/40 antifreeze & distilled water or (premix if that's what you use) to the reservoir and lower the tail of the machine a little at a time untill antifreeze starts coming out of the bleeder. You have to start with the rear end higher than the reservoir so all the air is forced to the rear as you add antifreeze, and then lower it a little to a point where its slightly below or even with the reservoir to get all the air out. I then ran the machine and felt the heat exchangers on each side of the foot rests to insure that I had flow. I didn't do the second bleed that the factory recommends after you run the machine, because I was pretty sure I had all the air out 1st time around. Just a couple points; I measured how much antifreeze I drained out so I was pretty sure to get the system completely full again. I also made sure the machine was sitting level from side to side because otherwise you could have air trapped in a side heat exchanger and still get antifreeze at the bleed port, giving you a false indicator that all the air was out during the bleed step. The tightening torque for the rear bleeder is 9.4 ft. lbs. . The antifreeze I used (peak) is yellowish/ green and hard to see the level in the reservoir; if I knew beforehand I would have used the dark green stuff, it's way easier to see the level. You have to be careful when tightening the rear cover bolts because whoever did mine at the factory over tightened them and squissed the plastic apart so now there's not much holding them. It's a pretty easy job, I tend to go overboard and make things complicated.
venture2
So I raised the back of the machine, removed the rear bumper cover to gain access to the bleeder plug that is located in the crossover pipe or rear heat exchanger (if equipped with one). The bolts for the rear bumper cover are located on each side of the rear tunnel, there is two bolts on each side. The bumper cover also snaps in place on the rear section. I then removed the lower coolant hose (about 1" dia) located down below the chain case and drained the antifreeze out; also open the vent plug in the rear crossover to aid the draining and reservoir cap after draining starts. After reconnecting the hose I slowly added a mixture of 60/40 antifreeze & distilled water or (premix if that's what you use) to the reservoir and lower the tail of the machine a little at a time untill antifreeze starts coming out of the bleeder. You have to start with the rear end higher than the reservoir so all the air is forced to the rear as you add antifreeze, and then lower it a little to a point where its slightly below or even with the reservoir to get all the air out. I then ran the machine and felt the heat exchangers on each side of the foot rests to insure that I had flow. I didn't do the second bleed that the factory recommends after you run the machine, because I was pretty sure I had all the air out 1st time around. Just a couple points; I measured how much antifreeze I drained out so I was pretty sure to get the system completely full again. I also made sure the machine was sitting level from side to side because otherwise you could have air trapped in a side heat exchanger and still get antifreeze at the bleed port, giving you a false indicator that all the air was out during the bleed step. The tightening torque for the rear bleeder is 9.4 ft. lbs. . The antifreeze I used (peak) is yellowish/ green and hard to see the level in the reservoir; if I knew beforehand I would have used the dark green stuff, it's way easier to see the level. You have to be careful when tightening the rear cover bolts because whoever did mine at the factory over tightened them and squissed the plastic apart so now there's not much holding them. It's a pretty easy job, I tend to go overboard and make things complicated.
venture2
willie42
Newbie
thanks 
Irv
TY 4 Stroke God
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
venture2 said:
Are you sure the new "pink" long life is compatible with this engine, just asking?
Personally, I hate the pink s#@&, would much rather have the older proven green juice any day!
Ever take a rad cap off a vehicle that has been running the pink juice for a few years? Compare it to one that has been running the green and tell me which would you rather run?
venture2
Extreme
As far as I know, from what I've read on the containers, all anti freeze is compatable with any engine and each other regardless of the color, but some don't advertise that they will protect the engine for five years. I could be wrong on this but it's all ethylene glycol mixed with water and specific rust and sludge inhibitors & dye for each brand. I knew a chemist who told me that the inhibitors in antifreeze are gone in one years use and that's when the sludge starts to develope, so I went with the five year mix which was light green/ yellow, depending on the light. Some of the one year antifreeze is still dark green in color.
The pink stuff that you mentioned is used by GM (maybe others) and I had it in my Chevy truck. I changed it at the five year mark with 35k miles and it still looked good, but there was plenty of oily slime in the reservoir. I flushed the engine twice and hope for the best. My Gm book said to use only their antifreeze, but I'm not convinced it's any different than the rest; maybe somebody on this site knows? There was an antifreeze on the market that claimed it was developed for aluminum engines, but I haven't seen it lately. I know guys who put many miles & years on liquide cooled machines and never even consider changing antifreeze, so I Figure whatever I use Is probably okay, as long as I mix it right. There was some discussion on this site about how different water/antifreeze mix ratio's provided better heat transfer. But the factory calls for 60-40 mix. venture2
The pink stuff that you mentioned is used by GM (maybe others) and I had it in my Chevy truck. I changed it at the five year mark with 35k miles and it still looked good, but there was plenty of oily slime in the reservoir. I flushed the engine twice and hope for the best. My Gm book said to use only their antifreeze, but I'm not convinced it's any different than the rest; maybe somebody on this site knows? There was an antifreeze on the market that claimed it was developed for aluminum engines, but I haven't seen it lately. I know guys who put many miles & years on liquide cooled machines and never even consider changing antifreeze, so I Figure whatever I use Is probably okay, as long as I mix it right. There was some discussion on this site about how different water/antifreeze mix ratio's provided better heat transfer. But the factory calls for 60-40 mix. venture2
