icemanrsrage
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Messages
- 2
anyone swap out slides on there rs rage.. It appears that the windows are not large enough to let the slides slide through.. Has anyone modified one pair of openings with a razor to let the slides go through? removing skid to change slides is crazy..
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
You'd swear the RX-1's had the same problem and I believe that it is the same track and hyfax. Here's how I change mine:
1. wedge a screwdriver between the hyfax and the rails, at the rear, on both sides and let the screw driver stick out through the track window.
2. remove the front screws that hold the hyfax on, get a long pry bar and turn the track backward by inserting the bar through a window and using the drive axle as the fulcrum. Work the track backward by hand until the track windows grab the drivers and they start to peel the hyfax off the rail and out through the windows - get some dish soap.
3. once you have the hyfax through the windows about 3" run the sled in reverse, if you have it, or continue to work the track backward until the hyfax is peeled off. I suppose you could pry the hyfax off at the front and run it forward too?
1. wedge a screwdriver between the hyfax and the rails, at the rear, on both sides and let the screw driver stick out through the track window.
2. remove the front screws that hold the hyfax on, get a long pry bar and turn the track backward by inserting the bar through a window and using the drive axle as the fulcrum. Work the track backward by hand until the track windows grab the drivers and they start to peel the hyfax off the rail and out through the windows - get some dish soap.
3. once you have the hyfax through the windows about 3" run the sled in reverse, if you have it, or continue to work the track backward until the hyfax is peeled off. I suppose you could pry the hyfax off at the front and run it forward too?
Loomy58
VIP Member
I modified 2 of the windows by the Camoplast name on the track with a Dremel, open them up about 3/16-1/4" on both sides of the windows.
Now you just loosen the track 6 turns put the sled on the side.
Remove screw.
Using a 3/8" hardend rod drive the slide out the back about 5 inches.
Drill a 7/16" hole in the slide that is stiking out insert 3/8" rod and pound off the rest of the way hitting the rod (Watch Hands).
Take the new slide and spread some silicon (the gel that you use to make tires shiny works great) on the trough of the Hyfax and should slide right on no hammer or very little.
Insert screw roll sled over and repeat.
Can do both sides in about a half hour if there is no Ice build-up.
Loomy
Now you just loosen the track 6 turns put the sled on the side.
Remove screw.
Using a 3/8" hardend rod drive the slide out the back about 5 inches.
Drill a 7/16" hole in the slide that is stiking out insert 3/8" rod and pound off the rest of the way hitting the rod (Watch Hands).
Take the new slide and spread some silicon (the gel that you use to make tires shiny works great) on the trough of the Hyfax and should slide right on no hammer or very little.
Insert screw roll sled over and repeat.
Can do both sides in about a half hour if there is no Ice build-up.
Loomy
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,151
- Age
- 54
- Location
- Chassell Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
I thought about enlarging 2 windows on my Ripsaw too but my yammie dealer advised me against it. Sounds like yours is working though Loomy. No concerns about weaking that point on the track?
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Enlarge the pair of windows close to where it says camoplast so they are easier to find. My dealer does ALL of them this way.
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
RSVECTORFREAK said:I thought about enlarging 2 windows on my Ripsaw too but my yammie dealer advised me against it. Sounds like yours is working though Loomy. No concerns about weaking that point on the track?
My concern as well.
So I assume your dealer hasn't had any problems with this method then Tork? Any idea on how many miles people have put on their tracks after having the winows enlarged?
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Loomy58 said:Using a 3/8" hardend rod drive the slide out the back about 5 inches.
If you're gonna do that, then run the sled in reverse - TRUST ME on this, takes litteraly 3 Sec. as the slides get peeled-off like bananas, no drilling req. and you won't smash your hand with a hammer either.
danq
Expert
4Fighter, that peeling method sounds like it would be very hard on the window of the track doing the peeling. do you notice anything strange wear on the track after doing it or does the track clip take all the force.. I've never tried it your way, sounds interesting... do you score the hyfax or anything to make them peel easier?
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Tfin said:RSVECTORFREAK said:I thought about enlarging 2 windows on my Ripsaw too but my yammie dealer advised me against it. Sounds like yours is working though Loomy. No concerns about weaking that point on the track?
My concern as well.
So I assume your dealer hasn't had any problems with this method then Tork? Any idea on how many miles people have put on their tracks after having the winows enlarged?
No problems, what you can do is cut over a 1/4 " down from the lug and then cut down stopping a 1/4" from the next lug. I use one of those soldering irons with the exacto blade on it that I got from a hobbie store.
I did every window on a 2000 camoplast track and ran it 4500 miles until I sold it.
Dont use a rod to drive them off anymore. I use one of those little air hammer/chisels you can buy for $20..... sweet!
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Tork said:No problems, what you can do is cut over a 1/4 " down from the lug and then cut down stopping a 1/4" from the next lug. I use one of those soldering irons with the exacto blade on it that I got from a hobbie store.
I did every window on a 2000 camoplast track and ran it 4500 miles until I sold it.
Dont use a rod to drive them off anymore. I use one of those little air hammer/chisels you can buy for $20..... sweet!
Great, thanks!
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
danq said:4Fighter, that peeling method sounds like it would be very hard on the window of the track doing the peeling. do you notice anything strange wear on the track after doing it or does the track clip take all the force.. I've never tried it your way, sounds interesting... do you score the hyfax or anything to make them peel easier?
Now keep in mind this on an RX-1 though.
My friend (who used to work at the Yamaha dealer) showed me this trick on an old Phazer. No scoring involved. He took two screw drivers and stuck them thru the windows, and in between the hyfax and the rail. Then he had to work the track backward using a pry bar through the clipped window, at the front of the skid, using the drive axle as a fulcrum (no reverse). The clips ride along the screw drivers until the hyfax comes thru the window, then viola! Even by hand, he changed the slides in under 30 min.
You use a clipped window. Make sure it comes around on top of the driver or hyfax. Work the track by hand until you have 2-3" sticking thru. l also noticed that the small opening of the window forces the hyfax to twist a little and fit through the window better as it's being peeled off. The Hyfax also curls side-ways which further helps, even if you can't raise the track.
I haven't noticed any wear at all. I used to work the hyfax out, then clamp a Chinese Vise-grip to it, then hammer it to pull the hyfax out -What a PITA. I know this method works and it works faster than anything else I've ever seen, but if you have doubts then, by all means, do what you think works best.
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
An interesting method to say the least!
ttw_walman
Extreme
I think you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill!
The track is rubber and pliable. Get the hyfax to the track window, work it through with a screwdriver ( the track bends easily ) grab it with some vise grips and pull. I always smear grease all over the new hyfax where it will contact the rails so removal is easier next time.
ALSO When I went to replace them on my RAGE this year I noticed that the way that the back of the rail was finished at the factory that the angle came to a knife edge. I had to file it down a little to keep it from cutting into the new hyfax
The track is rubber and pliable. Get the hyfax to the track window, work it through with a screwdriver ( the track bends easily ) grab it with some vise grips and pull. I always smear grease all over the new hyfax where it will contact the rails so removal is easier next time.
ALSO When I went to replace them on my RAGE this year I noticed that the way that the back of the rail was finished at the factory that the angle came to a knife edge. I had to file it down a little to keep it from cutting into the new hyfax
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
ttw_walman said:I think you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill!
The track is rubber and pliable. Get the hyfax to the track window, work it through with a screwdriver ( the track bends easily ) grab it with some vise grips and pull. I always smear grease all over the new hyfax where it will contact the rails so removal is easier next time.
ALSO When I went to replace them on my RAGE this year I noticed that the way that the back of the rail was finished at the factory that the angle came to a knife edge. I had to file it down a little to keep it from cutting into the new hyfax
Just being cautious with an expensive snowmobile, I can understand that.
Filing down the lip, now that's a good idea
ottobond007
Newbie
4Fighter said:danq said:4Fighter, that peeling method sounds like it would be very hard on the window of the track doing the peeling. do you notice anything strange wear on the track after doing it or does the track clip take all the force.. I've never tried it your way, sounds interesting... do you score the hyfax or anything to make them peel easier?
Now keep in mind this on an RX-1 though.
My friend (who used to work at the Yamaha dealer) showed me this trick on an old Phazer. No scoring involved. He took two screw drivers and stuck them thru the windows, and in between the hyfax and the rail. Then he had to work the track backward using a pry bar through the clipped window, at the front of the skid, using the drive axle as a fulcrum (no reverse). The clips ride along the screw drivers until the hyfax comes thru the window, then viola! Even by hand, he changed the slides in under 30 min.
You use a clipped window. Make sure it comes around on top of the driver or hyfax. Work the track by hand until you have 2-3" sticking thru. l also noticed that the small opening of the window forces the hyfax to twist a little and fit through the window better as it's being peeled off. The Hyfax also curls side-ways which further helps, even if you can't raise the track.
I haven't noticed any wear at all. I used to work the hyfax out, then clamp a Chinese Vise-grip to it, then hammer it to pull the hyfax out -What a PITA. I know this method works and it works faster than anything else I've ever seen, but if you have doubts then, by all means, do what you think works best.
DITO !!!!!
Been doing it this way for years. My dealer showed me how.
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