RTX DX suspension

[picasso]

help me understand how the rear works. I'm thinking of having my shocks worked on. On the rough trails we have had as of late mine feels like it has 2 inches of travel. As I was messing around with it I am starting to doubt that it is the shocks.

If I work the suspension in the rear the shocks feel plenty soft. It's when the suspension hits the transfer blocks when it has no give. Seems like that is what I'm feeling on the trail?

I really don't know how it works. So help me understand. How does the front shock work into the equation?

Thanks for your patience in this!

 

[sparky72]

So when you mean 2" of suspension, is it harsh or bottoming out? That is mostly set by the main spring in the back. Transfer blocks determine mostly how the sled will "wheelie" under acceleration. More wheelie, more traction but lose steering - conversely, less wheelie, more steering but less traction. Front shock is a balance of comfort and steering effort (limiter strap also effects this), more tension on the spring, the greater resistance to bottoming but less steering (takes weight off the skis) but can be somewhat countered with increase in front shock preload. It is all a balancing act and determined by your weight, riding style and intended use for your sled.

 

[picasso]

As I said the suspension moves quite easily until it contacts the transfer blocks. It then is extremely stiff. I am not bottoming out, it just seems way to stiff.

 

[sparky72]

How much do you weigh dressed? What is your rear spring set at? I'm 260 dressed and am at the #2 pos on spring. Its borderline too light bit #3 is way too much.

 

[ViperBill]

It gets a little involved but here we go Think of the sled as being pushed by the rear wheels on acell. this causes the rails to be pushed forward causing the front arm to extend and lift the front end. the rear coupler blocks help keep the rear from dropping too far and control the angel of the skid and limit ski lift. When hitting a bump the front arm hits first forcing the rails back (arm swings on a arc) the front coupler (pins in front of the rear arm) contact the arm and force the rear upward to help clear the bump even before it gets there. This also lets the arms share spring rate and damping. Also short limiter strap settings will also cause loss of transfer. the front skid spring rate will also affect the rear spring rate once coupled.

 

[picasso]

How much do you weigh dressed? What is your rear spring set at? I'm 260 dressed and am at the #2 pos on spring. Its borderline too light bit #3 is way too much.

I'm about 210 with everything on. Preload in rear spring is on position 2. Tried position 1 and I'd bottom out on a snowflake. 3 would buck me off.

 

[ViperBill]

I would suggest running the rear spring on #1 and tighten the front track shock a bit.

 

[picasso]

It gets a little involved but here we go Think of the sled as being pushed by the rear wheels on acell. this causes the rails to be pushed forward causing the front arm to extend and lift the front end. the rear coupler blocks help keep the rear from dropping too far and control the angel of the skid and limit ski lift. When hitting a bump the front arm hits first forcing the rails back (arm swings on a arc) the front coupler (pins in front of the rear arm) contact the arm and force the rear upward to help clear the bump even before it gets there. This also lets the arms share spring rate and damping. Also short limiter strap settings will also cause loss of transfer. the front skid spring rate will also affect the rear spring rate once coupled.

Yeah, it's when the suspension hits the transfer blocks, there is not enough give. Is this a spring issue then? I can't see the shock being my problem at this point. What I also don't understand, is if it's too stiff with the preload on 2, and 1 is too soft, now what?

 

[picasso]

I would suggest running the rear spring on #1 and tighten the front track shock a bit.

My front shock is pretty loose(10 threads showing below collar) but this was how I got the sled to turn. Limiter strap tightened 1 hole, and front shocks tightened some too.tried rear on 1. Had a lot of bottoming out

 

[ViperBill]

When in use the suspension does not compress like that that. bumps com from the front and that block is not a factor as when the front arm is compressed that block is pushed back and is not in play. Only on acell when the rail is loaded forward. Once you get the rear to ride you can adjust ski press with the ski shocks. If you like the front low pull up the limiter straps but youll loose some transfer.

 

[picasso]

When in use the suspension does not compress like that that. bumps com from the front and that block is not a factor as when the front arm is compressed that block is pushed back and is not in play. Only on acell when the rail is loaded forward. Once you get the rear to ride you can adjust ski press with the ski shocks. If you like the front low pull up the limiter straps but youll loose some transfer.

That kinda makes sense. My sled seems so stiff when hitting moguls. I have noticed the farther back on the seat I sit, the better it handles them.

 

[ViperBill]

Try this. Lay a piece of 4by4 under the track at the front arm mount point and then push on the bumper. youll be able to fully compress the suspension. that will give you an idea of your coupled spring rate. small adjustments on the front track spring may suprise you but youll see the change.

 

[picasso]

Try this. Lay a piece of 4by4 under the track at the front arm mount point and then push on the bumper. youll be able to fully compress the suspension. that will give you an idea of your coupled spring rate. small adjustments on the front track spring may suprise you but youll see the change.

Okay. I'll give it a try!

 

[murdered141]

I got a 15' ltx dx, rear spring blocks set on the firmest settings and I still bottom out on bigger bumps, guess it's time to get my fat #*$&@ on a diet.