QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
To all who have clutched their RX-1's. I have a question for all of you. I am trying to decide if I want to do this or not and your answers to this question will help.
I had a ZL800 Cat that I bought the D&D clutch kit for. I HATED it. After installing this kit you could not EASE into the throttle and get the sled to SLOWLY move forward or backward. There was so much weight on the primary that it just snapped closed and squeezed the belt too hard and at such a high rpm that it always jerked you.
Is this true of all clutch kits? Is this something you give up to get the extra acceleration? If so, count me out, I absolutely hated it and it was the worst $225 I have ever spent on my sled.
I had a ZL800 Cat that I bought the D&D clutch kit for. I HATED it. After installing this kit you could not EASE into the throttle and get the sled to SLOWLY move forward or backward. There was so much weight on the primary that it just snapped closed and squeezed the belt too hard and at such a high rpm that it always jerked you.
Is this true of all clutch kits? Is this something you give up to get the extra acceleration? If so, count me out, I absolutely hated it and it was the worst $225 I have ever spent on my sled.
Straightliner
Veteran
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2003
- Messages
- 43
No not all clutch set-ups engage hard. You have to work with motor clutch springs, it sounds like you were running notched weights. (Later)
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I agree... Its all in the setup... The most rx-1 clutch setups accually engage at a lower speed than stock... around 3800..
I rode a zl500 once that was just like you said,,, and very annoying!!
I rode a zl500 once that was just like you said,,, and very annoying!!
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
Most clutch kits are designed to give you a harder engagement as holeshot is what most guys are after and that is why most require studs to make use of that engagement. Now you can tell your clutch kit guy that you do not want it tuned that way and he can set it up any way you want it but you must tell him. Most Yamaha clutches come stock very soft out of the hole which is nice for normal smoothe trail riding and top end runs.
Jim
Jim
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
welterracer said:
FYI: Stock engagement is 3400.
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
LazyBastard said:
Is that clutch RPM or engine RPM?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Engine. Thats what it reads on the gauge. Clutch RPM is lower still.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
From my experience, it worked out WAY better to leave my clutch stock. I had purchased a Redline Clutch-kit for my XCSP 700 in Jan. '03 and spent more time trying to dial it in then actually enjoying it on a trail. I also lost BIG TIME at trade in, it was like I just threw $3800.00 (500 from clutch and carb mods) out the window. This year I just bought the sled, 2" risers, Ohlins rear, and a few other things and left the clutching and carburetion stuff alone. Besides, dealers rarely ever give you more money at trade-in if it's been tinkered with. They know how to play the game :wink:
And you never know when your going to jump ship either :roll:
And you never know when your going to jump ship either :roll:
joe howard
Veteran
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2003
- Messages
- 29
The thing is clutched to shift hard anyway , I wouldn't touch it . My warrior ,stock , ingages at 3900 R's . I'd be happy with 2900 , hell the motor can do it I'm sure.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The stock clutching has problems. There is absolutely no compensation for different machines - they all get it the same. Different riders need different clutching - and not everyone clutches for drag races. One of the key issues on the stock clutching is the inconsistent shift speeds. When I had the stock clutching, it was RARE for the motor to pull up over 10000 - I think I saw 10100 *once*, and this is on a motor with peak power at 10300.
There is also an issue with engagement on the stock clutching. It engages at the right speed, but it fails to squeeze hard enough right at engagement. When I still had the stock clutching, I burned 3 of those superhard 8DN belts. Since the kit, haven't hurt a single belt.
The last thing to know about clutching is to always buy your clutch kit from Matt - www.thespeedshop1.com. The stuff he'll sell you will really perform, AND, he'll bend over backwards to get you setup right - not like buying your stuff from anyone else where once you've dropped your money you no longer exist.
There is also an issue with engagement on the stock clutching. It engages at the right speed, but it fails to squeeze hard enough right at engagement. When I still had the stock clutching, I burned 3 of those superhard 8DN belts. Since the kit, haven't hurt a single belt.
The last thing to know about clutching is to always buy your clutch kit from Matt - www.thespeedshop1.com. The stuff he'll sell you will really perform, AND, he'll bend over backwards to get you setup right - not like buying your stuff from anyone else where once you've dropped your money you no longer exist.
I got my clutch kit for my VIPER from CPR and it ran great. He was always ther for me if I had questions. So I would think it would be the same on my 05 RX-1...
joe howard
Veteran
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2003
- Messages
- 29
Lazy , I'll agree on the engagement point you made , but not on the shift out . A 1000 mile 8dn will go to 10k and pull to 10 three on top . But guess what , the sled has less acceleration vs. a new 8dn that rev's to 10k , pulls back to 9300 and pulls back to 10 three . Follow all that ? Speeds of 70 to 90 will cost you some as it grunts back up, but your way ahead 0 to 70 .
It's a fact , the motors powerband is sooo dam big you can over-shift ( a over-shift that would gag a mortal 2 stroke ) by 1000 R's and actually gain cause the sled lunges forward and doesn't over spin. Ya with me still?? Talk to me!
It's a fact , the motors powerband is sooo dam big you can over-shift ( a over-shift that would gag a mortal 2 stroke ) by 1000 R's and actually gain cause the sled lunges forward and doesn't over spin. Ya with me still?? Talk to me!
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I see where you're getting that from, BUT, you're off on your theory a little... When you jump to 10300+ off the line and it pulls back to 9x00, its because you have no hookup. As the track starts to stick, the rpm drops and your sled lunges ahead. Add more traction and you'll pull to 9x00 off the line and pull up from there - and I guarantee that it will pull HARDER than the *lunge* and you'll get lower ET. Clutch it right and it'll be 10100-10200 off the line sticking hard and pull up a little from there.
Also, this *lunge* is not a matter of the belt, its a matter of what is under your sled - the kind of snow.
Finally, I didn't say anything about belt performance, simply that I blew up a few of them.
Also, this *lunge* is not a matter of the belt, its a matter of what is under your sled - the kind of snow.
Finally, I didn't say anything about belt performance, simply that I blew up a few of them.
Silver
Expert
I have to disagre with Joe.The sled dosen't pull at all at 9,300.With stock weights it would pull 9,300- 9500 out of the hole then creep up to 10,000.A dog to say the least after 700 miles sled would pull 9,800 out of the hole and go to 10,200 a completely different animal ask the guys I ride with.I have HH's now and 10,200 out of the hole and goes to 10,700.Runs very strong.
