RX-Kid
Veteran
Is there some regular maintenance that should be done to the clutch? Should I be greasing something or inspecting something? I ask this because my 03 RX-1 LE does not have the smooth take-off it originally did. The engine revs up and then it seems to engine harshly, like you dropped the clutch on a motorcycle instead of easing it out. It's not horrible, but not like it was when new. I don't trust my dealer enough to bring it to them, because I figure they will say it needs a new clutch. I'm replacing the V-belt and will clean the sheaves with compressed air/scotch brite pad/acetone (found that on this site), but want to know if there is some other kind stuff that I should be adjusting, greasing, etc that might resolve my issue. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. -chuck
sicilien
Extreme
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The things I can think of are as follows;
1) VERY worn belt,
2) Sticky bushing on the sliding sheave - could be clogged with some kind of engine and/or clutch filth,
3) Worn or sticking WEIGHT bushings,
4) Engine moved towards the jackshaft,
5) Jackshaft bearing TOAST,
6) Secondary not closing properly.
To check and/or solve;
1) Remove the drivebelt and set it in the secondary. If it sits deeper in the secondary than specifications indicate, then try the same for a NEW belt. If new belt sits at proper height in the secondary, its the belt, otherwise, see #6. If everything is good, move on to #2.
2) With the drivebelt removed, remove the 6 #10 bolts from the front of the clutch and remove the cover and spring. Slide the moving sheave towards the fixed sheave. If it doesn't move smoothly/easily, then you need to clean the shaft it runs on. If that doesn't fix it, you'll need to remove the fixed sheave in order to remove the sliding sheave to clean and/or replace the bushing. If this is not the problem, go on to #3.
3) Since the face of the clutch is already off, this is easy to check. You are going to test EACH weight to see if the bushing is loose or hard to move. If you detect either condition, remove and clean or replace bushings and/or pins as needed. Else move on to #4.
4) There are special tools for doing this, but a tape measure should suffice. Measure the center to center distance between the engine's PTO shaft and the jackshaft. If it doesn't match specifications, the engine will have to be moved - with this condition you describe, it would have to be moved FORWARD in the chassis.
5) If this bearing is toasted that badly, then the machine is probably making a real nasty grinding noise that you would DEFINITELY notice. Grab the secondary clutch and yank it around to make sure that the bearing is holding it snugly. Better yet, remove the secondary and inspect visually and regrease while you're at it.
6) Fun fun. Check the pastic buttons between the helix and the clutch, make sure that they aren't worn through. You can see them by just removing the belt guard.
1) VERY worn belt,
2) Sticky bushing on the sliding sheave - could be clogged with some kind of engine and/or clutch filth,
3) Worn or sticking WEIGHT bushings,
4) Engine moved towards the jackshaft,
5) Jackshaft bearing TOAST,
6) Secondary not closing properly.
To check and/or solve;
1) Remove the drivebelt and set it in the secondary. If it sits deeper in the secondary than specifications indicate, then try the same for a NEW belt. If new belt sits at proper height in the secondary, its the belt, otherwise, see #6. If everything is good, move on to #2.
2) With the drivebelt removed, remove the 6 #10 bolts from the front of the clutch and remove the cover and spring. Slide the moving sheave towards the fixed sheave. If it doesn't move smoothly/easily, then you need to clean the shaft it runs on. If that doesn't fix it, you'll need to remove the fixed sheave in order to remove the sliding sheave to clean and/or replace the bushing. If this is not the problem, go on to #3.
3) Since the face of the clutch is already off, this is easy to check. You are going to test EACH weight to see if the bushing is loose or hard to move. If you detect either condition, remove and clean or replace bushings and/or pins as needed. Else move on to #4.
4) There are special tools for doing this, but a tape measure should suffice. Measure the center to center distance between the engine's PTO shaft and the jackshaft. If it doesn't match specifications, the engine will have to be moved - with this condition you describe, it would have to be moved FORWARD in the chassis.
5) If this bearing is toasted that badly, then the machine is probably making a real nasty grinding noise that you would DEFINITELY notice. Grab the secondary clutch and yank it around to make sure that the bearing is holding it snugly. Better yet, remove the secondary and inspect visually and regrease while you're at it.
6) Fun fun. Check the pastic buttons between the helix and the clutch, make sure that they aren't worn through. You can see them by just removing the belt guard.
sicilien
Extreme
So if i read you right, i can remove the cover of the clutch, and not have the damn thing blow up 
in my face from the pressure of the spring ???? i was sure that you needed a special tool to open a clutch ??? 
in my face from the pressure of the spring ???? i was sure that you needed a special tool to open a clutch ??? Similar threads
