RX-Kid
Veteran
Is there some regular maintenance that should be done to the clutch? Should I be greasing something or inspecting something? I ask this because my 03 RX-1 LE does not have the smooth take-off it originally did. The engine revs up and then it seems to engine harshly, like you dropped the clutch on a motorcycle instead of easing it out. It's not horrible, but not like it was when new. I don't trust my dealer enough to bring it to them, because I figure they will say it needs a new clutch. I'm replacing the V-belt and will clean the sheaves with compressed air/scotch brite pad/acetone (found that on this site), but want to know if there is some other kind stuff that I should be adjusting, greasing, etc that might resolve my issue. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. -chuck
RX-Kid
Veteran
nobody has any recommendations?
I'm surprised nobody has any recommendations for keeping your clutch running in tip-top shape ...with 37 hits it looks like I'm not the only one wanting some suggestions.
I'm surprised nobody has any recommendations for keeping your clutch running in tip-top shape ...with 37 hits it looks like I'm not the only one wanting some suggestions.
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
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- sudbury on
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
you need to take it off the sled and check all the bushings for play in the weights, rollers and without the spring in it you need to make shure the sheives slide freely. sometimes clutch dust gets in there and causes the bushings to bind as well.
last season i had the opportunity to test ride a 03 rx1. it was on origonal belt at 10,000km and the primary clutch was clanging/slapping the belt when you went to take off. blew the belt out on the lake at wot. it had spun up a little when it blew the belt getting rid of some of the dust in the primary and its engagement was a lot cleaner. still not perfect but wayy better.
last season i had the opportunity to test ride a 03 rx1. it was on origonal belt at 10,000km and the primary clutch was clanging/slapping the belt when you went to take off. blew the belt out on the lake at wot. it had spun up a little when it blew the belt getting rid of some of the dust in the primary and its engagement was a lot cleaner. still not perfect but wayy better.
VT_BluYamaha54
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2003
- Messages
- 226
- Location
- Vermont
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Vector LTX
2004 RX-! Warrior
1984 Phazer (Antique)
I have almost 7000mi on mine and haven't done anything but keep it clean and (minimally) lubed. Most people don't realize that too much grease can cause more problems (by attracting dirt than a dab. Cleaning out the belt dust (an abrasive) is key. I would say 1500 - 200mi as a guideline.
I just added the shims at about 6000mi (there is a thread here if you search) to quiet down the noise at idle (tighten up the sliders) but haven't done much and mine is working good. I am still on my original belt also.
I just added the shims at about 6000mi (there is a thread here if you search) to quiet down the noise at idle (tighten up the sliders) but haven't done much and mine is working good. I am still on my original belt also.
RX-Kid
Veteran
Thanks for the feedback
I will blow out the area with compressed air and clean the sheath with acetone. I will check the bearings/rollers for free play and replace if necessary. I see online they have a clutch rebuild kit that might be whats needed. Thanks for the tips!
I forgot to mention that I have plenty of time to tinker with my sled while I wait for the front suspension arm to come in for the rear skid
I will blow out the area with compressed air and clean the sheath with acetone. I will check the bearings/rollers for free play and replace if necessary. I see online they have a clutch rebuild kit that might be whats needed. Thanks for the tips!
I forgot to mention that I have plenty of time to tinker with my sled while I wait for the front suspension arm to come in for the rear skid
clutch
DO NOT ADD ANY TYPE OF LUBE TO YOUR CLUTCH. take the clutch off of sled, disassemble as much as you can, wash in warm soupy water, put back together and then check for loose bushings in rollers and weights and the movable sheave, replace if needed, reassemble clutch and put back on motor DRY!!!!
DO NOT ADD ANY TYPE OF LUBE TO YOUR CLUTCH. take the clutch off of sled, disassemble as much as you can, wash in warm soupy water, put back together and then check for loose bushings in rollers and weights and the movable sheave, replace if needed, reassemble clutch and put back on motor DRY!!!!
woodchk454
Extreme
what about the shaft where the clutch mounts, mines starting to rust making the clutch come off somewhat difficult.
crank stub
were the clutch meets the motor, just clean with scotch pad, I use the maroon colored one or the green both work well,(both inside clutch and outside crank stub) I do this every time I remove the clutch.
were the clutch meets the motor, just clean with scotch pad, I use the maroon colored one or the green both work well,(both inside clutch and outside crank stub) I do this every time I remove the clutch.
pat the rat
Lifetime Member
last november i was prepping my sled and decided to remove the secondary to change the teflon sliders,well the clutch was seized on the spline shaft,i had to use a hammer to get it free,took me 1/2 an hour to get it off.make sure you grease the spline lightly,i used white lithium grease and its still on after 2500 miles,good stuff
thinksnow
Expert
Clutch Cleaning
All you really need to do is hit them with brake clean. Take the belt off, put some rags in the bottom of the sled and spray the clutches with the brake clean.
I run a Scotch Brite pad on the faces of the clutch with the belt off and the sled running (BE CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS!!!). I do this before any trip. It really cleans up the sheaves on the primary.
I also wash my belts with Simple Green and scrub with a Scotch Brite pad after each trip. This removes all the contaminants on the belt and extends its life.
As for the "clutch mounts", I put a small amount of anti-seeze on the hubs before putting them back on and they always just pop off easily.
I have also used the dishwasher for cleaning the clutches. Just put them in on the heavy duty (pot scrubber) cycle and let them wash. Pull them out as soon as the cycle is done (before heated drying) and blow them off with compressed air. If you try this method, just make sure your significant other is gone and doesn't catch you.LOL
All you really need to do is hit them with brake clean. Take the belt off, put some rags in the bottom of the sled and spray the clutches with the brake clean.
I run a Scotch Brite pad on the faces of the clutch with the belt off and the sled running (BE CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS!!!). I do this before any trip. It really cleans up the sheaves on the primary.
I also wash my belts with Simple Green and scrub with a Scotch Brite pad after each trip. This removes all the contaminants on the belt and extends its life.
As for the "clutch mounts", I put a small amount of anti-seeze on the hubs before putting them back on and they always just pop off easily.
I have also used the dishwasher for cleaning the clutches. Just put them in on the heavy duty (pot scrubber) cycle and let them wash. Pull them out as soon as the cycle is done (before heated drying) and blow them off with compressed air. If you try this method, just make sure your significant other is gone and doesn't catch you.LOL
For what it's worth, I got a can of Comet clutch lub that comes in a spray can and has a small tube with it like a can of WD-40. I spray all the moving parts of both clutches with it once a year, usually when I put it away. It's a dry lubricant, even though it goes on wet. The only caution with it is to keep it off of the pully-belt surfaces. That will cause the belt to slip a little until you wear it off.
Ergie
Ergie
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Soap and hot water is the best way to clean your clutches. You can clean the surfaces with a scotchbrite pad and you can use brake clean etc on the internals of the clutch to clean but it will leave residue on the clutch faces that you dont want. Metal even though it feels it is not smooth there are tiny little divits all through it and it will pick up and store anything even the oils from your skin. I dont use any lubricant on the inside as it has never been recommended to do so. Just my .02
lube
If you use ANY type of lube it will attract crap of all sorts to it and in turn will wear parts prematurely, weight and roller bushings, spider slides, main bushing. KEEP IT AS DRY AS POSSIBLE.
If you use ANY type of lube it will attract crap of all sorts to it and in turn will wear parts prematurely, weight and roller bushings, spider slides, main bushing. KEEP IT AS DRY AS POSSIBLE.
culvert
Expert
VT--Why would you stick your hand into your clucth with it turning???
For scrubing the clutch faces you want to go across the face not with it. Across the faces will give you grip for the belt, with the face just polish's it and makes it more slippery.
For scrubing the clutch faces you want to go across the face not with it. Across the faces will give you grip for the belt, with the face just polish's it and makes it more slippery.
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