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Rx Mountain suspension set up

working better but thinking it is going to get an M7 skid this summer. Here are a few pix from this week on Mt Baker.
 

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Re: PICS WOULD BE GREAT

alaskanbowtie said:
when you get a chance post some pics and a short "how to" , do you plan on going on any longer rides and jumps etc. to test it ? Hope you have good results ! Let us know . :Rockon:

I'll repost the pics and a how to from work Tuesday night. My dialup at home is too slow for uploading. So far the outcome is great. The track is a little loose for Yamaha specs and no ratcheting with the stock drivers. Before my track would ratchet bad in sticky spring type snow conditions with the trck banjo tight. Transfer is as good and it doesn't require my middle shock to be set to stiffest and the rear to second softest positions to get it done (both are set one click from full soft). More than likely I won't see any significant miles this season so next year will be the durability test.
 
Ok, I'm at work so here's a quick how to and some pics of the mod.

Basically all I did was;

measured the inside distance between the rails, remove the FRA from up in the tunnel, cut the alluminum shaft (evenly on both ends) to fit and drilled and tapped new holes for the bolts, cut the FRA 3/16" shorter than the alluminum shaft on each end to allow room for the bushings, turn it and roll it 180 degrees. I cut 1 1/2 inch out of the two bars that run along the rear shock welded them back together and then stitched welded a 1/4" x 1/2" piece of flat bar the length of them on the inside so they now look like a "T". I then bolted the FRA to the modded bars and and slid it back and forth until the slot for the shock was directly above the bolts for the two arms. I marked the rail on center with a sharpie, took a measurement from the front H-arm mount to the mark and then marked the other rail so the FRA would be the same on each side.
 

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Thats pretty similar to what I've been planning on doing to mine this summer. Only concern I have about the way you have yours configured is that it seems to be standing very high up above the rails. Its not going to cut into your track under full compression, is it?
 
LazyBastard said:
Thats pretty similar to what I've been planning on doing to mine this summer. Only concern I have about the way you have yours configured is that it seems to be standing very high up above the rails. Its not going to cut into your track under full compression, is it?

LB, I couldn't say for sure. I have compressed the suspension as far as possible using two ratchet straps rated at 500 lbs each with the sled anchored to the trailer and still had about 5 inches between the top of the FRA and the track.
 
LazyBastard said:
Why you do it the hard way? If you remove the spring, it will go down very easy.

LOL, because I don't have a spring compressor tool to remove it from the shock. I also had to use a ratchet strap hooked to the rear bumper; to compress the shock enough to get the FRA hooked back up to the two bars that link it to the rear scissor arm.

I should have added to my previous post that the spring at the top end of the shock is only about 1/2" from the track when compressed and they might rub a bit. It shouldn't hurt either though.
 
whits-end said:
What is the theory behind this mod?

Don't want to sound dumb, I'm just trying to understand what improvements would result from relocating the mount and FRA.

It drops some weight (~1.5 -2 lbs) and gives a ride similar to the Fast
M-10 suspension for the poor man. I can now run a track looser than Yamaha's specs (without extros) and don't ratchet. Durability has not been tested but it should hold up.

Eventually want a Holz Racing or Mountain Addiction skid once I get the SC and 159" track w/ extros in the sled next spring.
 
You guys should PM Thrusted Vector. He has figured out how to improve on the 03-04 skids. Its quick and easy and they work a whole lot better.
 
BlgsRX1-mtn:

You don't need a spring compressor for that. Here's what I do to compress the spring....

Take a piece of small CHAIN (not rope 'cause it'll stretch), a CHAIN BINDER, and a couple of BOLTS. Put one bolt to the end of the shock, and the other one THROUGH THE SPRING (long bolt). Hook the chain over the long bolt and onto the chain binder, then bind. It'll pull sideways, but it WILL pull back the spring. If you have two chain binders, one on each side of the spring and it'll pull straight. It does put some sideways stress against the shock, but it didn't break mine.

You might also get some observable results by removing BOTH the spring AND shock - everything should still move the same way, but you'll have to measure to where the spring *would* be.
 
Are the suspensions similar on the 03-04 RX's and RS series? I was wondering if you meant that Thrusted Vector has an 03 TRX or something similar. I would love to know the variables, as I have lost 30 lbs and I wonder if the suspension will now act different.
 
RX-Eskimo said:
Are the suspensions similar on the 03-04 RX's and RS series? I was wondering if you meant that Thrusted Vector has an 03 TRX or something similar. I would love to know the variables, as I have lost 30 lbs and I wonder if the suspension will now act different.

The '03/'04 RX-1 mtn Suspension is different than the '05 RX mtn/Vector mtn. The '03/'04 suspensions use two coil over shocks and an FRA that attaches the Rear shock to the tunnel of the sled. They also have straight rails all the way back. The '05/Vectors use a TRS (torsion rate spring) along with a non-coil over shock similar to the other 3 OEM skids. They also have rails that are tipped up at the rear for better trail manners and better weight transfer (similar to Polaris).

As you can see in my pictures above I have modded my FRA to attach the rear coil over to the rails rather than up in the tunnel. This gives better transfer and eliminates the problem of ratcheting that'03/'04 owners experienced after installing the MPI trasfer enhancement kit. Only real difference between my suspension and the '05 RX/Vector is the coil over shock vs. TRS and lack of tipped rails at the rear
 
so how does this all work now that you have some miles on it?? No rubbing or other probs? I want to do it, but if i dont like it then i have to replace parts to put it back to stock :o|
 


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