Rice_Z24
Veteran
Went for a ride lastnight, machine ran good considering the warm temp outside. Had it pinned full throttle and when I let off the machine had zero throttle response and it kept backfiring two or three tomes then it would go away. Did this only twice on a three hour ride. Everything is clean and syncd. Only thing I have done different is ran higher octane fuel.has never done this a 87 or 89 octane
Warrior Snowman
Extreme
sounds like an ignition problem... High octane will delay detonation. this will have some impact. old plugs, wet or fouled? If this doesn't work, I would disconnect the battery for 10 min, then reconnect and try again. I am sure others here will have more impressive words of wisdom, but this should at least be a start.
Rice_Z24
Veteran
Ok thanks. I guess my best bet is to clean the coils, check for a "light show", look at the plugs then disconnect the battery I guess?
Rice_Z24
Veteran
Would water in the fuel cause this problem also?
mbarclay
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
sounds like the tors to me my warrior would do the same thing when my throttle cable was to tight
Rice_Z24
Veteran
Is there an actual throttle cable adjustment recommended? Or is it just by feel and by eye? I have tightened my cable up to take the free play out of it.
You want 2-3 mm of free play in the cabe if not you will trigger TORS.
2 to 3 mm gap at the flipper is what the book calls for
mbarclay
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Rice_Z24 said:
you want it to have free play, im sure thats what the problem is
Here is the page from the manual:
click thumbnail for larger image.
Rice_Z24
Veteran
I will make this adjustment tonight and report back. Thanks for all the help guys. By the way what is TORS?
Thottle Over Ride System it is 2 sensors one at the flipper and one at the carbs, if they don't match posistion (ie both open or both closed) it won't let the sled throttle up
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
maxdlx said:
That doesn't sound quite right/safe.
As I understand the system, there are the two switches set in PARALLEL, and at LEAST ONE of them has to be connected to complete the circuit.
In other words, flipper switch connected, carb switch connected, or BOTH switches connected.
If the carb switch is DISCONNECTED, it means that the throttle is above zero.
If the flipper switch is DISCONNECTED, it means that the throttle lever is at zero. If they are BOTH DISCONNECTED, it means that the cable or carb valves are stuck.
Rice_Z24
Veteran
Sounds too advanced for me, but if I set the 2-3 mm of free play back in the flipper I should eliminate this problem?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Unless one of your switches is damaged/frozen, or the cable is sticky, or the carb's don't return to zero throttle properly... in which case it is acting perfectly and might be saving your life.
Note: One weakness in the system is the flipper side switch. If you look at the throttle flipper, you will note that the pivot pin slides in a slot when you push in the throttle. This sliding is when it actually closes the switch we are talking about. If there is any ICE blocking this pin from sliding, it will have the exact effect you are describing.
Note: One weakness in the system is the flipper side switch. If you look at the throttle flipper, you will note that the pivot pin slides in a slot when you push in the throttle. This sliding is when it actually closes the switch we are talking about. If there is any ICE blocking this pin from sliding, it will have the exact effect you are describing.
I didn't type that right. I was in no way meaning to disconnect the tors. When the flipper is back against the block, the carb one also must be in the right posistion. If the throtle cabl is set to tight, the one on the carb will not be seated, and the tors will activate. Like I said, poor wording on my part, I never run with out my tors connected and working properly. Sorry for he confusion. Maxdlx
