snowdust
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I was setting my sag after a revalve from carver and had a question. Do you guys find that when lifting the sled off of the ground to just letting it sit there, that there is about a 4" drop at the rear bumper? It seems like a lot of the stroke is lost just by the weight of the sled. I have it at 40mm sag, but really it just seems like I am hitting the valving in the shock as a stopping point rather than my weight pushing it down.
This is hard to explain, but in general when you lift the back of the sled is there about 4 inches before you actually start to lift the sled, or is it already extended when you lift? I'm thinking maybe I need to set the preload higher to use the full stroke. This is on a GT so the ohlins shock and it has the 5.5 spring.
This is hard to explain, but in general when you lift the back of the sled is there about 4 inches before you actually start to lift the sled, or is it already extended when you lift? I'm thinking maybe I need to set the preload higher to use the full stroke. This is on a GT so the ohlins shock and it has the 5.5 spring.
Blue Dave
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Mine seems about the same as you describe. The weight of the sled causes some sit in that you can feel when lifting the bumper.
sherlock29
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i just had my 40th revalved, and i have about 2" of sag from sled(sleds weight) before i sit on... then about 3-4" with my weight on sled... for me its just about right. I'd just put alittle more preload on spring as it is probably "worked in" a bit and may need alittle more...
snowdust
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I'll adjust and see. What is weird is when I initially put it back together it sat higher. Now that it is cold it seems to have trouble holding itself up all the way.
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nailsandrails said:
I also talked to my rebuilder about this same issue, and in a nut shell he said having a bit of sag (2 to 4 inches) is not a bad thing as it allows the suspension to fall into a hole/rut and help absorb the impact of it.
I trust his logic and hearing about the same issue on here time and time again, I believe it is normal and is probably designed into it?
snowdust
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I looked at my dads and he has about 2" of drop where mine is all of 4. Here is a video to see what you guys think:
http://www.mediafire.com/?974w33xhd1w66ed
I haven't had a chance to adjust, but it sure doesn't seem right to me.
http://www.mediafire.com/?974w33xhd1w66ed
I haven't had a chance to adjust, but it sure doesn't seem right to me.
sherlock29
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just looked at your vid... crank that spring up... mine is at min,half the threads up the shock... may even be more... thats all you need.
snowdust
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Yeah... I assumed he would send it back for my weight, but maybe not. I'll update after I adjust it. I appreciate the feedback!
LJ 452
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He can't really send it back for your weight as that includes whatever you have on, plus your sleds rear weight. Which can vary depending on what you put in the trunk, backpack, ice, saddlebags... The weight is needed for the valving, and maybe spring selection.
As far as set down, your video proves exactly what I had though. Look at the front of the suspension. When you lift it up, the front is off the ground well before the rear. I.e. you have shortened the front limiter, or the skis are on wheels (can't see). Either way the sled will sag until you have a full contact patch on the track. To prove, put a set of wheels under the very rear of the track, you'll notice the suspension will droop until the front of the track touches, or you've built up enough spring pressure to hole the weight of the sled. Which brings me to the exception of the rule, Look at Snow-X sleds and you might notice that the rear of the skid is the only part touching. Their sleds can do that because of the spring rates used. You would not want that rate for trail purposes.
The amount of transfer is also a factor, until the suspension couples (the mono does a sort of sudo coupling sense there is only one shock) the lower the transfer setting in the suspension, the less likely it will be to allow as much set-in. Watch the transfer rod when you lift and lower the sled.
As far as set down, your video proves exactly what I had though. Look at the front of the suspension. When you lift it up, the front is off the ground well before the rear. I.e. you have shortened the front limiter, or the skis are on wheels (can't see). Either way the sled will sag until you have a full contact patch on the track. To prove, put a set of wheels under the very rear of the track, you'll notice the suspension will droop until the front of the track touches, or you've built up enough spring pressure to hole the weight of the sled. Which brings me to the exception of the rule, Look at Snow-X sleds and you might notice that the rear of the skid is the only part touching. Their sleds can do that because of the spring rates used. You would not want that rate for trail purposes.
The amount of transfer is also a factor, until the suspension couples (the mono does a sort of sudo coupling sense there is only one shock) the lower the transfer setting in the suspension, the less likely it will be to allow as much set-in. Watch the transfer rod when you lift and lower the sled.
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nailsandrails said:
I have that same problem every now and then.
Capt.Storm
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It's very unlikely that a shock would hold the sled up.
The spring pretty much has that job.
Crank it up ..maybe even change clip position.
The spring pretty much has that job.
Crank it up ..maybe even change clip position.
snowdust
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Well I figured it out thanks to LJ. It was simply because I had it on wheels. Once I put the skid on the floor it had the 1-2" drop that is normal. Who would have thought? 
Thanks for the help. After all this the shock actually needed to be loosened some to get 40mm sag.
Thanks for the help. After all this the shock actually needed to be loosened some to get 40mm sag.Capt.Storm
Pro
driftbuster said:
snowdust
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The funny thing is I kept thinking my suspension did this last year too, but I thought it went away. All the time it was just a matter of having the rear on wheels. Then there was the "when it got cold" theory... When it was warm in the shop and I put it all back together I knew it didn't do this. After I got it home in a cold garage it started happening. lol. Again.. not on wheels at shop and put on wheels when I got home.
