lynnmor
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2011
- Messages
- 10
I had frequent hyfax and over-heating issues with my Vector when snow conditions were not great. I made an attempt to build scratchers that are an improvement over those currently available. See the photos and see what you think.
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DGZRT
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2006
- Messages
- 1,181
- Location
- Stevens Point Wisconsin
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2008 Vector shorty, 17 Shitdoo 1200X, 2000- pullmyass-340 for Grandkids
Very nice looking ! Do they fold up out of the way? if so what holds them up?
Thanks DGZRT
Thanks DGZRT
VectorLTX2012
Expert
I've heard you need to be careful when using this style because they can beat the crap out of your bottom cowling when going fast. I've not seen this, but that is what I heard, I've got mine mounted to the rails and they work pretty well for me.
lynnmor
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2011
- Messages
- 10
You pull out and turn to the position you want. Note the photo with the cable straight back.
I built scratches that had thinner, more flexible cables and they did indeed beat the crap out of whatever they could reach. I belive that these will be much better.
Note that they can be removed with just one small screw, and they fit in the toolbox.
There is a carbide slug in each end so they can be flipped to use the other end should they wear down or break. The points are replacable. They are adjustable for preload and angle. All metal parts are stainless steel.
Keep the comments coming, if there is enough interest and they prove out this winter, I may produce more.
I built scratches that had thinner, more flexible cables and they did indeed beat the crap out of whatever they could reach. I belive that these will be much better.
Note that they can be removed with just one small screw, and they fit in the toolbox.
There is a carbide slug in each end so they can be flipped to use the other end should they wear down or break. The points are replacable. They are adjustable for preload and angle. All metal parts are stainless steel.
Keep the comments coming, if there is enough interest and they prove out this winter, I may produce more.
Irv
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Messages
- 3,778
- Age
- 60
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- ONT. Canada
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2008 40th Anniversary Vector.
1995 XLT SP (Son's)
lynnmor said:You pull out and turn to the position you want. Note the photo with the cable straight back.
I built scratches that had thinner, more flexible cables and they did indeed beat the crap out of whatever they could reach. I belive that these will be much better.
Note that they can be removed with just one small screw, and they fit in the toolbox.
There is a carbide slug in each end so they can be flipped to use the other end should they wear down or break. The points are replacable. They are adjustable for preload and angle. All metal parts are stainless steel.
Keep the comments coming, if there is enough interest and they prove out this winter, I may produce more.
They look great Lynnmor, nice job!
I am currently running ski-scratchers but haven't had to use them yet, but I do like your's and the fact your's will not break if you forget you left them down.
Keep us posted on how they work and if they cause any belly pan or like damage, and if not, I might be interested in a pair.
canadianhunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sleddog built these back in about 06, I modified them a bit and have run them since then. I have hooks on the a-arms to hold them up, but just leave them down all the time.
If you do a search I posted pics a few times.
To keep from beating the under side of the sled, use stiff cable (5/16") and keep them as short as possible.Made a few mods. over the years. Keep an eye on the cable for fraying after about the 2000 mile mark, this varies. If it starts to fray, replace.
If you do a search I posted pics a few times.
To keep from beating the under side of the sled, use stiff cable (5/16") and keep them as short as possible.Made a few mods. over the years. Keep an eye on the cable for fraying after about the 2000 mile mark, this varies. If it starts to fray, replace.
lynnmor
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2011
- Messages
- 10
For my first generation of scratchers I used 1/4 cables and a longer length. I incorparated a socket to hold the business end up when not in use. This worked but they jumped around too much and beat up what ever they could reach.
I used a shorter, stiffer cable this time but it won't bend around far enough to place in a socket so I devised a way to index the cable to several different positions. When in the up position it could slap the bottom so I am adding a self-stick rubber pad at the contact area. If conditions are good they can be removed with just one small screw.
I used a shorter, stiffer cable this time but it won't bend around far enough to place in a socket so I devised a way to index the cable to several different positions. When in the up position it could slap the bottom so I am adding a self-stick rubber pad at the contact area. If conditions are good they can be removed with just one small screw.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
I'm wondering what the issues are with the ones available on the market besides being only available in blue? I just bought a set of the Yammie ones but they are still in the package. I'm not liking the thought of them beating on the bottom of the sled if that is an issue with those.lynnmor said:I had frequent hyfax and over-heating issues with my Vector when snow conditions were not great. I made an attempt to build scratchers that are an improvement over those currently available. See the photos and see what you think.
VectorLTX2012
Expert
Mine are mounted on the rail near the front and I don't have an issue with them beating up the bottom.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks, that might be the best spot for me to mount them as well - I have the Venture TF. So there's no problem to tuck them up when not being used?VectorLTX2012 said:Mine are mounted on the rail near the front and I don't have an issue with them beating up the bottom.
lynnmor
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2011
- Messages
- 10
BombaPolaYama said:I'm wondering what the issues are with the ones available on the market besides being only available in blue? I just bought a set of the Yammie ones but they are still in the package. I'm not liking the thought of them beating on the bottom of the sled if that is an issue with those.lynnmor said:I had frequent hyfax and over-heating issues with my Vector when snow conditions were not great. I made an attempt to build scratchers that are an improvement over those currently available. See the photos and see what you think.
If you are talking about the yamaha TRIC scratchers here are my thoughts:
The first generation of those, they were recalled because they beat up the sled. The current units should be fine.
I wanted to be able to quickly lift the cables when approaching bridges or other conditions that may catch or harm the units. Yamaha TRIC units need two wrenches for that and when you want to deploy them again you have to readjust. I can lift or deploy both of mine in less than 10 seconds, or remove them in less than a minute.
If I start making these things, they can be; blue, red, green or black. Sorry, no yellow!
smalltownpower
Expert
been there done that, with both generations of the cable scratchers. 45 dollars for rsi ice scratchers on ebay, never looked for another set of scratchers yet.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
I thought they had enough flexibility to be tucked up especially if mounted on the rails.lynnmor said:If you are talking about the yamaha TRIC scratchers here are my thoughts:
The first generation of those, they were recalled because they beat up the sled. The current units should be fine.
I wanted to be able to quickly lift the cables when approaching bridges or other conditions that may catch or harm the units. Yamaha TRIC units need two wrenches for that and when you want to deploy them again you have to readjust. I can lift or deploy both of mine in less than 10 seconds, or remove them in less than a minute.
If I start making these things, they can be; blue, red, green or black. Sorry, no yellow!
noflipside
Veteran
got a set of the RSI and was wondering where on the rails to mount them, I assume behind the second idler wheel/
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