trgcobra
Extreme
What is your opinion of adding Seafoam to a new Attak? I am talking about both to the Gas and Oil?
What do you think?
What do you think?
trgcobra
Extreme
I use this product to help stablize fuel, keep things clean and in the oil to help keep things lubed better (so they say). It actually does seem to work, but I just wondered about a new engine that is not broken in.
trgcobra said:
The fuel thing YES..........BUT
The oil turns JET BLACK, as it cleans off all of the carbon Deposits. I put it in 4 1 day AND SAW THAT. Not really sure U would want 2 keep it in there 4 longer than U need 2.
I belive it could plug up the Filter, as well as break down your oil. Add it 2 your motor about 50 miles from your 500 mile inspection, perfect time as U R going to have your oil changed anyway.
U should C alot of feed back here on this one
trgcobra said:
Why fix what isnt broke? Wait till you have a problem or you might cause a new one!
Oak Hill
VIP Member
I am sold on Sea Foam, this stuff really works. I would use it in the gas. If you wanted to add it to your oil, I would add to a cold engine, run engine until warmed up and change oil and filter to flush the system. I would not recommend running it as an additive to your oil. 
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Sled Dog said:
I pretty much agree. I would not put it in the oil especially on a new engine for break-in. And I dont think it has all that much value in the gas on a new motor unless the fuel is going to sit for 30 days or more.
That is my $.02 anyway
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
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I would run it just prior to an oil change.
nbsledder
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I used some of this in a tractor and it did reduce oil consumption,but there's no way i would use it in a new engine,the rings might not seat properly.
I use Seafoam (in the gas) all the time in my snowmobiles, outboards, lawn mower, and snowblower - basically, anything in which the gas will sit for a period of time. Additionally, every 5K miles, I run a tank full through my cars and I use Seafoam for winter storage of my Corvette. I've never had a problem with "gummed up" fuel injectors or carburetors.
That said, I've never run Seafoam in the oil. It's my understanding that you run it in the oil to clean out carbon deposits in an old or dirty engine. Also, as others have mentioned, run it in the oil for a short period of time then change the oil ASAP.
I’ve even heard of where Seafoam is slowly poured into the carburetor until the engine kills. Supposedly, this is to clean out the top of the engine.
That said, I've never run Seafoam in the oil. It's my understanding that you run it in the oil to clean out carbon deposits in an old or dirty engine. Also, as others have mentioned, run it in the oil for a short period of time then change the oil ASAP.
I’ve even heard of where Seafoam is slowly poured into the carburetor until the engine kills. Supposedly, this is to clean out the top of the engine.
sobfrogg
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I put Seafoam in the gas when I picked up my sled.
Seeing as I picked the sled up in Aug
. by the time I went to ride it the gas would have gone bad by then .
I don't think i would put it in the oil just yet. I have run it in my trucks. All of them had well over 200,000 miles. I have also used as a cleaner for the Intake and valves.
just my .02
Seeing as I picked the sled up in Aug
. by the time I went to ride it the gas would have gone bad by then . I don't think i would put it in the oil just yet. I have run it in my trucks. All of them had well over 200,000 miles. I have also used as a cleaner for the Intake and valves.
just my .02
For break-in purposes, all you need is already there in your crankcase, the synthetic-blend oil that the factory made especially for this engine. Other than that, follow your factory break-in specs, change your oil on time and go ride.
Make sure you add something to the fuel system during storage though. Fuel goes bad fast, even without causing running or performance problems it can serious and expensive problems that are easily avoided.
tgcobra did your dealer run the 15 min break-in procedure or will you do it? I'm referring to idling the engine for it's first 15 mins of life. It's a good procedure, it works, it should be done.
Two things to avoid:
1. DO NOT overheat the engine during break-in, even when idling. Overheating the sealing surface between the rings and cyls as they are breaking in is a very bad idea. Overheating can also affect the ring's tension.
2. Before riding season gets here, resist the urge to start and stop the engine repeatedly unless you fully warm it up. That's tough while you're waiting for the snow to fly, but try to avoid it, it leaves deposits on your plugs and can cause fouling. It's much more likely when the fuel sits for weeks and months.
Make sure you add something to the fuel system during storage though. Fuel goes bad fast, even without causing running or performance problems it can serious and expensive problems that are easily avoided.
tgcobra did your dealer run the 15 min break-in procedure or will you do it? I'm referring to idling the engine for it's first 15 mins of life. It's a good procedure, it works, it should be done.
Two things to avoid:
1. DO NOT overheat the engine during break-in, even when idling. Overheating the sealing surface between the rings and cyls as they are breaking in is a very bad idea. Overheating can also affect the ring's tension.
2. Before riding season gets here, resist the urge to start and stop the engine repeatedly unless you fully warm it up. That's tough while you're waiting for the snow to fly, but try to avoid it, it leaves deposits on your plugs and can cause fouling. It's much more likely when the fuel sits for weeks and months.
trgcobra
Extreme
I actually didn't pickup the Attak yet. Went to the dealer yesterday and it hadn't arrived yet. I knew there may be a chance of that happening before we left, but we were going to our cabin anyway which is near the dealer. We plan to pick it up next Friday to pick it up. I will ask them if they did the 15 min idle procedure. If they didn't do it, I will. Is there anything else that I should do?
trgcobra
Extreme
Along the same lines as this thread, it seems that the Seafoam web site says their product is ok to run in the crankcase. I put a very small amount in my '03 RX1 and in my lawnmower and four motorcycles. According to a local shop, the product is great and puts a"thin coating" on the internal parts to help protect them. Anyone think this was a bad idea?
tg, don't pour magic "additives" in your crankcase and mix it with your oil. An error here can easily get expensive and you just don't need the stuff. The crankshafts in these engines literally "float" on a film of oil about 1 to 2 thousands of an inch thick. On the power stroke, all that hp and torque is delivered through this film of oil between the connecting rod and crankshaft bearings. Think about that. Bottom line is I would trust the factory guys in terms of what this engine needs for oil.
Seafoam is an additive for specific problems and it probably works for that. But engine break-in isn't a problem, it's a procedure, and the factory guys know way more about it than anyone else. I'm absolutely not disrespecting Seafoam or those that have had success with it.
And I would defitinitely use something in the fuel system this time of year, even on your new sled. That gas that gets poured in now will likely not be gone until Dec-Jan, so it needs some help living for three months.
But back to oil, you shouldn't have to add anything, just follow break-in procedures up to 300 miles, change oil and filter at 500 miles, then go enjoy the rest of the winter!.
Seafoam is an additive for specific problems and it probably works for that. But engine break-in isn't a problem, it's a procedure, and the factory guys know way more about it than anyone else. I'm absolutely not disrespecting Seafoam or those that have had success with it.
And I would defitinitely use something in the fuel system this time of year, even on your new sled. That gas that gets poured in now will likely not be gone until Dec-Jan, so it needs some help living for three months.
But back to oil, you shouldn't have to add anything, just follow break-in procedures up to 300 miles, change oil and filter at 500 miles, then go enjoy the rest of the winter!.
