Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
I use a hammer and a flat steel bar to knock the adjuster tighter. Not the easiest to adjust, especially if its iced up.
Murse
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I'll do it after its been inside all night.
Winderallday!
VIP Member
The spring pre-load adjuster on the mono-shock is a cam collar with about 7 ramps, I have found the tool in the kit to be useless and a knuckle buster. I get under there with a pipe wrench and adjust it, doesn't take much force to move it with weight off the suspension. As far as the transfer rod adjuster, I use a blunt cold chisel and a brass hammer in the square grooves to loosen/tighten the small locking collar, again, the wrench in the tool kit is useless.
Also, between the pre-load adjusting collar and the shock body, there is a spring clip that sits in your choice of three machined grooves in the shock body. This allows you to move the adjusting collar up on the shock body to give you a new spring starting point with about 15mm more pre-load over the first groove. You have to remove or compress the spring to access this clip, I run mine in the second groove and about half way up the cam ramps, I'm about 220 geared up, and Zero bottoming, still handles the whoops great. I run the RA adjust right in the middle of the dial range, cant remember when I last changed the RA, works good there. My cable broke off last weekend, likely wont replace it since I never use RA once it's set.
At some point, I would highly recommend sending your mono-shock to Shock-Tec as mentioned above, Frank will dial the shock in for your weight, riding style etc, night and day difference over stock.
Cheers.
Also, between the pre-load adjusting collar and the shock body, there is a spring clip that sits in your choice of three machined grooves in the shock body. This allows you to move the adjusting collar up on the shock body to give you a new spring starting point with about 15mm more pre-load over the first groove. You have to remove or compress the spring to access this clip, I run mine in the second groove and about half way up the cam ramps, I'm about 220 geared up, and Zero bottoming, still handles the whoops great. I run the RA adjust right in the middle of the dial range, cant remember when I last changed the RA, works good there. My cable broke off last weekend, likely wont replace it since I never use RA once it's set.
At some point, I would highly recommend sending your mono-shock to Shock-Tec as mentioned above, Frank will dial the shock in for your weight, riding style etc, night and day difference over stock.
Cheers.
Murse
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Shock is way better! Cable fixed adjustment works perfect 0 bottoming now that I have it great. No upgrade for now.
P1suspension
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Hi there! I have a 2006 attack with custom axis all the way around. I could take your stock suspension and re-valve it and spring it to match my axis very easily. Or if you would like to buy axis I can also do that for you. Can't go wrong either way. Changing out the stock rear spring to a dual rate greatly resist bottoming.I've used Hygear before and I intend on sending my shock to them again. Problem is my monoshock bottoms out too easy when riding aggressive. I like it plush but need better bottoming resistance. Option 1 go all out and get Axis shocks spend 2000$...Option 2 get twisted spring kit on all 3 shocks with revalve. Option 3 simple revalve to my weight? I am going to send all 3 shocks just wondering who has been playing with suspension and what you guys have been doing.
chris189
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Hi there! I have a 2006 attack with custom axis all the way around. I could take your stock suspension and re-valve it and spring it to match my axis very easily. Or if you would like to buy axis I can also do that for you. Can't go wrong either way. Changing out the stock rear spring to a dual rate greatly resist bottoming.
Cool but what is the advantage of going to an Axis setup if you can valve the stocker the same? Does the axis have a HI & LOW speed adjustment on the compression? That alone would be a huge advantage.
Do you sell the same dual rate spring as Hygear uses?
P1suspension
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Hi and low speed adjustment are only useful if your valving combination is off. They are useful to fine-tune that's about it. I use EIbach and Hyper coil springs.Cool but what is the advantage of going to an Axis setup if you can valve the stocker the same? Does the axis have a HI & LOW speed adjustment on the compression? That alone would be a huge advantage.
Do you sell the same dual rate spring as Hygear uses?
Murse
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The cable fixed the sled ruses so much better now that I can adjust. Another season or two no need for revalve.
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