4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
- Location
- E waterboro,maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
What should you be concerned about,the color of the bearing????? Only time to change them is if you have play in it,noise as in dry sounding or squeling or if you have noticed a severe loose of top end speed,which would be from friction IE dry bearing,or worn to the point the ball bearings are rattling around,but if its that bad you would be able to take the jack shaft and move it radialy,so have you noticed a very low top speed,compared to your best top speed of say 2,000 miles ago,you may lose as much as 10-15 mph on the same surface you recieved your very best speed.
BlgsRX-1mtn
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2003
- Messages
- 1,530
- Location
- Billings, MT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '03 RX-1 Mountain LE
mnmsnowbeast said:What should you be concerned about,the color of the bearing????? Only time to change them is if you have play in it,noise as in dry sounding or squeling or if you have noticed a severe loose of top end speed,which would be from friction IE dry bearing,or worn to the point the ball bearings are rattling around,but if its that bad you would be able to take the jack shaft and move it radialy,so have you noticed a very low top speed,compared to your best top speed of say 2,000 miles ago,you may lose as much as 10-15 mph on the same surface you recieved your very best speed.
I think he is refering to the crack shown on the outer edge of the sealed bearing. Yes I would be concerned 4fighter. Is it dented there also? I would definately replace it and see if maybe there was defect in the bearing.
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
- Location
- E waterboro,maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
With that kind of milage i would change them anyways,its cheap insurance. And the crack would appear to cause some alarm,i dident see that earlier,good luck.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
No loss of top-end...yet, no vibrations except for the busted helix ramp buttons every 500 miles
Fellas! This is part of the Aluminum bulk-head as pointed out to me by my dealer. There is no replacing it except to weld it, if it is indeed cracked. I DO NOT NEED THIS!
And yes, I am replacing all jack-shat bearings, and the lower drive axle bearings (both-sides)
Fellas! This is part of the Aluminum bulk-head as pointed out to me by my dealer. There is no replacing it except to weld it, if it is indeed cracked. I DO NOT NEED THIS!
And yes, I am replacing all jack-shat bearings, and the lower drive axle bearings (both-sides)
MR.HAPPY
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2003
- Messages
- 1,159
- Location
- GREAT NORTH OF... ILLINOIS?
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- YAMAHA
Time to trade, is what I'm thinking my dear friend!!!
GOOD LUCK!!!
BR
GOOD LUCK!!!
BR
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
COLDONE said:Time to trade, is what I'm thinking my dear friend!!!
GOOD LUCK!!!
BR
That's what I've been telling the wife since the first 800 miles I did find out that this is typical with aluminum cast and shouldn't be a problem. So what! If it breaks, it breaks - No big surprise there. The only problem is it will ruin it for me because the wife won't allow me to buy another one.
bdm
Expert
Just pulled my secondary. I have the same apparent crack, almost exactly the same spot. What did you do about yours? Would it hurt to do a quick spot weld?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Thats a side-effect of casting aluminum. It didn't happen while you used it, or even (for that matter) while you've OWNED it. Its not going to get any worse and its nothing to worry about.
bdm
Expert
Thanks LB, While I have your attention....
If I have my jackshaft out of the sled and the bearing still seems to be FIRMLY attached to the shaft, to remove the bearing and collar from the shaft am I trying to pound the bearing toward the brake end of the shaft? I have read your other posts and still am a little worried and confused on how to get this last bit apart.
If I have my jackshaft out of the sled and the bearing still seems to be FIRMLY attached to the shaft, to remove the bearing and collar from the shaft am I trying to pound the bearing toward the brake end of the shaft? I have read your other posts and still am a little worried and confused on how to get this last bit apart.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
I just changed my jackshaft bearing(s) and if I understand the question bdm, and if it's an '04, the bearing has to come off from the clutch-side. There should be a split collar and spanner nut on the back-side.
And as always, LB, you're correct. I had that verified with Snowman269- having worked for Yamaha, he sited many examples of this phenomenom. After pulling the bearing, everything looked stout.
And as always, LB, you're correct. I had that verified with Snowman269- having worked for Yamaha, he sited many examples of this phenomenom. After pulling the bearing, everything looked stout.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
4Fighter; I think he's got the bearing OUT with the shaft still attached.
bdm; there is a wedge shaped collar that is jammed in from the clutch side, so you must move the bearing off the collar towards the brake side. If it really doesn't want to come off though, you might be best off GRINDING it. If you're careful with the grinder, you will NOT touch the shaft since you can cut part way into the collar.
Note: the collar is on with LOCTITE - there is a good chance that HEAT will get it off... but don't add too much, wouldn't want to hurt the shaft with it. You can break off the outer race with a BIG HAMMER, then heat the INNER race while tapping with a SMALL hammer.
bdm; there is a wedge shaped collar that is jammed in from the clutch side, so you must move the bearing off the collar towards the brake side. If it really doesn't want to come off though, you might be best off GRINDING it. If you're careful with the grinder, you will NOT touch the shaft since you can cut part way into the collar.
Note: the collar is on with LOCTITE - there is a good chance that HEAT will get it off... but don't add too much, wouldn't want to hurt the shaft with it. You can break off the outer race with a BIG HAMMER, then heat the INNER race while tapping with a SMALL hammer.
bdm
Expert
Thanks guys! It is an 03 with the bearing and shaft out of the sled, in, seemingly, one piece. I didn't order a new bearing with the 04 collar that has already been shipped. Looks like that may have been a mistake. The bearing looks great; but, may be sacrificed during disassembly.
I will forge ahead this weekend.
I will forge ahead this weekend.
Similar threads
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.