Singles or Doubles

[Caveman]

I know, there's a ton of posts on studding, but rather than wading through pages of the "X2" crowd, I want to ask a question specific to my 2012 Apex XTX. I had too many close calls on the steep and icy last season and need to stud it.

I have the reinforced tunnel protector brackets from Port and shimmed the rear section 3/16 from the heat exchanger. I will keep them in the middle but not dead center to rub the shock or potentially hit the exhaust. I only want to run 114 (2 x 57) because I think 171 is too much and have it dialed in now for cornering with 13mm sway bar, snowtrackers and very little pre-load.

I bought Mack Studs, 1.375 with single round backers 2 seasons ago at the Grass Drags but re-thinking putting those on and going to with Top Gun II Stainless. I've seen comments about using single or double backers and someone on here uses just one double in each row, left then right and moves them around. Is that a good idea to have only one double in each set or am I better off running two singles further apart. I'm slightly worried about singles pulling out with the torque this sled cranks into that track.

Any pic's, patterns, suggestions or opinions is appreciated.

 

[yamirules]

I have been thinking about doing the same. Studs in a double are more fixed and flex less theoretically harder to pull out. 144 is hard to do symmetrically in all doubles.

 

[RxThunder]

I have always ran singles, Only had 3 pull out on my stock 03 RX1 track and it was on a hard brake, felt it catch something in the ground and sure enough they were gone. Track was still good for another 1,000 miles until I decided to go with a ripsaw. My friend is still running that track on his Polaris with no other pull throughs. I have heard doubles don't pull out as easy but I have no experince with them. The first year I had the Ripsaw I didn't stud it, I wasn't a fan. Back to studs and I'll never look back, I like them for stopping and if tyou ever get caught on an icy hill you'll be glad you have them.

 

[frozesolid]

"V" pattern down the middle using singles at the top of the v and a double at the bottom works well for me.

It's more of a safety pattern than an all out traction pattern.

 

[sgauthier]

doubles do bend less and if you can i would seriously think of adding the taller nuts as well.

 

[kingtut]

doubles do bend less and if you can i would seriously think of adding the taller nuts as well.

I thought that studs that don't flex would be worse on ice. Wouldn't they tick to the ice more and have more tendency to just rip clean out? Though the singles would flex more and stick less to the ice and weaken the track. I need some clear light here on studs.

 

[yamahatd]

I run 162 on my 136" with the Woody's pattern of 2 singles and 2 doubles(4) alternating bars. The pattern stays to the edge of the middle belt and has worked very good for me. I have had 0 pull throughs and only a couple of bends(throttle modulation is the key). I used the Mack Studs with the tall washer which is also key. good luck!

 

[Riceburner]

For trail safety I have used the accu tracks pattern near top left of the link.

http://www.royaldistributing.com/Catalo ... inter/#258

That gives you 24 scratch lines down the center in a long V. and 32 scratch lines if you do the outside.

When doing my Apex XTX I did 3 rounds of 11 x 2 leaving out the 2 studs closest to the center, and 2 rounds of 12 x 2 so that I got to the 57 rows # you are looking for and 114 studs.

55,000 KM's on Various Vector's, Apex's RX1's on Woody's Megabytes 1.325 singles with the machined aluminum discs as washers with never a pullout.

I have never used Mack Studs but have heard they should be fine for trail safety so not sure why you want to change.

 

[yamirules]

Anybody running stud boy pro series backers? I just bought some after talking to the guys from stud boy at the novi show. These things look gnarly! I know they have been out for awhile. Any input?

 

[sgauthier]

kingtut, when i say they bend less with the longer nuts i mean that the stud itself gets bent and needs to be replaced. the track will always bend/flex because it's rubber.

 

[Caveman]

Thanks to Riceburner, Yamahtd and the rest of the gang for some guidance on the pattern and the single/double question. I think I'm ready to go.
Forecasters are already hyping a potential for accumulating snow north of Boston next week, It's a bit early for me while I'm still painting the barn but bring it on!

 

[yamahatd]

one more word of advise....use loc-tite on all the nuts. I have had them come loose even though they are ny-locks.

I live north of Boston and will be doing my snow dance. Although none of our sleds are ready.

 

[Caveman]

Good point! Would the red Loc Tite be too much for these or do you think I should I use the blue?

 

[yamahatd]

I used red, but I think the blue would be fine. Once the red is on the studs are not coming off, I speak from experience. I tried to swap a bent one out and it took me forever to carefully cut the nut off. Go Blue!!!

 

[thor452]

the plastic backers offered by some manufactures say that they prevent pull outs as the will flex and not cut the track for what its worth. I studded one of my apexes with the accutrax pattern with the square alum backers at around 3500 miles i had a few pull out of the track always have had this happen with square backers i went prestudded and love it gives you the little extra you need for stopping on ice adds alittle extra traction second sled i have used the prestudded on with absolutly no problems. more money then just studs but worth it to me. also less rotating mass so it has less affect on top end. if i was going to do traditional studs i would go round backers and probabaly the plastic ones for safety of the track. again just my .02 for what its worth.