Skid Frame

[Sevey]

So what is the trick of getting it back on.

Do you need a small piece of pipe to drive it on. ? Or / once it's off does it slide on with little effort?
Ms

 

[Pstn head]

With the bearing installed in the wheel, they slide on with very little effort. If they give a little resistance gently tap them on with blunt force hammer or a piece of 2x4 side to side and around tapping closest to the shaft.

 

[Sevey]

It's interesting that the bushing and torsion link just rest against the bearing and are then are tightened. There is no way to tighten it together/ draw it together like a Yamaha design.

Is there any concerns about a bit of play left when doing this?
Ms

 

[cannondale27]

It's interesting that the bushing and torsion link just rest against the bearing and are then are tightened. There is no way to tighten it together/ draw it together like a Yamaha design.

Is there any concerns about a bit of play left when doing this?
Ms

Those wheels always have a little play at bearing. Phazer has same setup.

 

[Sevey]

Thanks all who chimed in. I have one side off and it did gnarl the shaft a bit. The slotted screwdriver I was using slipped off the bearing edge and went into the seal - so that bearing is f'ed.

They took some coaxing to come off. Cant imagine they area going to go back on easily. Thinking of getting a 3-5" piece of pipe (same size as the bushing) to hammer them on.

MS

 

[Sevey]

Now that both wheels are off - I am not sure I want to do that again. A slotted screw driver budged it loose a bit but still needed a long chisel to get it off. Damaged the ridge and the shaft. Cleaned it up with a file but seemed a little excessive.

Next time I would remove that part of the arm (scissor bolt and upper shock bolts) and see if I could fit it in the press to push them off. Has anyone tried this?
MS

 

[cannondale27]

Now that both wheels are off - I am not sure I want to do that again. A slotted screw driver budged it loose a bit but still needed a long chisel to get it off. Damaged the ridge and the shaft. Cleaned it up with a file but seemed a little excessive.

Next time I would remove that part of the arm (scissor bolt and upper shock bolts) and see if I could fit it in the press to push them off. Has anyone tried this?
MS

Take a strip of sandpaper,file and clean it up real nice. Use antisieze on there before reinstalling. Next time it will be much easier.

 

[09nytro]

 

[09nytro]

That's what I use, You can order it from Arctic cat too

 

[cannondale27]

View attachment 130024

That's pretty slick! The one the guys my dealer user just goes around the wheel. Looks like that one actually would pull on the inner race. Nice!

 

[Sevey]

Funny, I was thinking about how to make a puller but that is quite a kit and solves all the problems. Scared to know what it costs.
As mentioned by Cannondale, that one pulls on the race. The idea I was kicking around would sandwich the wheel which may not be ideal.
Next time - I am putting it in the press. I think I can get it to fit. Was not a big fan of using the chisel and hammer.
MS

 

[RTX]

That tool is only 280 bucks. Lol get one for each side. Lol

 

[cannondale27]

That tool is only 280 bucks. Lol get one for each side. Lol

Ouch! I will stick to my chisel when skids out or the crowbar with it in. Sevey I posted somewhere here back when I was testing different springs how to use a crowbar. Just removed the two skid mount bolts at rear undid torsions never even loosened track and used the flat end of a 3-4 ft crowbar from opposite side of skid with a hammer on crowbar to just hit the inner race of bearing. The shape of the flat end of crowbar fits perfectly over the spring and in the hole of wheel to get just the inner race. Seems crude but I did it at least 3 times never had a issue.

 

[Sevey]

Cannondale - You must have a steady hand. I can see that working with the way a cro bar is shaped. Didnt think of working from across the otherside of the skid. If it slips once, and into the bearing - that's a wrap. Will give it a whirl next time. Did you end up pounding away, or did just a few cracks on each side toggle it off?

RTX- I am going to assume that is sarcasm.lol. I also found the part on line for a little over $300 US. Double ouch.

MS

 

[cannondale27]

Cannondale - You must have a steady hand. I can see that working with the way a cro bar is shaped. Didnt think of working from across the otherside of the skid. If it slips once, and into the bearing - that's a wrap. Will give it a whirl next time. Did you end up pounding away, or did just a few cracks on each side toggle it off?

RTX- I am going to assume that is sarcasm.lol. I also found the part on line for a little over $300 US. Double ouch.

MS

I just give it a few taps. First time I had them off I spent some time sanding them so it gets easier every time.