Sled spit out coolant on first ride then got hot...

kinger

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Had to shut her down and have some freinds go get the trailer :o|

I'm wondering if I didn't bleed it good enough if it would have expanded and forced the coolant out the expansion hose? The boards and rear exhchanger were warm to hot, but when I threw some snow on there it didn't melt instantly like it would normally.

I'm going to try bleeding it again and try again. I think that was only spot it was coming out was the expansion tank, I hope...
 
Well I bled it again and wow did it take a long time, it would just sit there burp for about 5 minutes, then I installed the screw and filled it back up, raised the back end again and pulled the bleed screw and coolant immediaetly began flowing back out. I figured I have it nailed.

Searching I found some info on the Rad cap too light of a spring causeing to lose coolant through the overflow? What one did most people replace it with?
 
Closer inspection and it looks like the carb heater circuit is leaking coolant both front and rear?!? How do I fix that, are there O rings or something in there?
 
No o-rings in there. Just the metal pipes you can see from the outside.

I had the carb heater circuit leaking last year. When my left side heat exchanger developed a crack and started leaking I poured in a radiator sealer to stop the leaking and it did, at the same time the carbs stopped leaking as well. The stuff will react chemically with the air when it comes in contact with outside air.
 
Well I got it tore apart and I might be pessimistic but I think its leaking from teh head gasket. In between the 3 clutch side carbs the filters, and carbs are covered in coolant. The hoses look fine on the carb coolant ciruit. Each time I have run the sled it was steaming in that spot from coolant running down the block.

I fear the worst, think I am giving up and taking back to the dealer for thier diagnosis. That would explain the bog in my other thread if it was leaking and then when i shut down either expanded or contracted to seal for a short burst. MOTHER*******!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
MAN - you have had your share by now. I hope you can get it fixed before x-mas, you deserve something positive happening very soon.

Take it to the dealer and let them have a look at it. Was the head torqued down using Ted Jannettys specs?

The first season with the turbo I blew the 3 stacked head gaskets I had installed to lower compression. I had used Yamaha specs when torking down the head instead of the specs from MCXpress, their specs are close to Teds. When running nitrous I would tork down the head more than the Yamaha specs calls for.
 
I took it to the dealer even though they were closed and dropped the bastid off, I'm not turning another wrench on this thing. They can confirm if its a headgasket or not. Damn I'm pissed off right now shoudl have just taken it to Ulmer like I had planned but my dang side business took all my snowmobile money!
 
Damn I'm pissed off right now

Now Now Kinger, be glad you found it now and not 60 miles deep in the outback at 2 am and it's -20 F.

Believe me been there done that. Season is early and we all know there are bugs to work out on these projects.

I went riding 4 times this yr already and it was not till the last that I rode a day without a major failure.

I hope by now they have found the problem and are well on the way to repair. by this weekend you'll be pushing the juice button with your hair on fire and the ring of YEEEE YAAAAA MAAAAA HAAAAA ringing in your ears.

:Rockon: :Rockon: :nos What kid of question is that? :Rockon: :Rockon:
 
I guess its all part of the modification path but this is real frustrating my sled was dialed in engine/clutching wise just started with a water pump leak, now I have a mess.

Problem was ARP studs with the Stock TQ procedure do not work. ARP requires more TQ so its leaking under high load.

Going back to stock studs and Ted Jannetty's TQ specs, then I should be good.
 


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