Ultrafrozen
Expert
Slider wear fix?
Has anyone looked at why the sliders wear quickly?
I had a look at the clips and found that the little holes stamped in the wear surface have pretty sharp edges. Anyone think these sharp edges could be wearing away the sliders? That would explain why you might see more wear on the front curved part of the sliders as the sharp edges are not exposed when on the flat part of the sliders.
Has anyone looked at why the sliders wear quickly?
I had a look at the clips and found that the little holes stamped in the wear surface have pretty sharp edges. Anyone think these sharp edges could be wearing away the sliders? That would explain why you might see more wear on the front curved part of the sliders as the sharp edges are not exposed when on the flat part of the sliders.
Its because the wheels are smaller than normal.
09phazergtWI
Extreme
I now have over 500 miles this season, and 2 things appear to have virtually stopped slide wear for me compared to last season when I needed replacements in 400 miles:
-Marginal snow wheel kit. Installed at start of season, have done plenty of higher-speed and ditch riding on them and they're still there and spinning smoothly. Most wear last season was at front of rail curve, and this year there is virtually none evident.
-When doing extended running on hard pack/icy trail, I make an effort every 5 miles or so to pull off into the loose snow and kick skid full of snow. Takes 20 seconds. Snow then seems to stick & pack to the rails, and melt down onto the slides when the temps heat up from the hardpack.
When my idlers wear out I'll consider installing the oversized Excels, but for now, this seems to have done the trick.
-Marginal snow wheel kit. Installed at start of season, have done plenty of higher-speed and ditch riding on them and they're still there and spinning smoothly. Most wear last season was at front of rail curve, and this year there is virtually none evident.
-When doing extended running on hard pack/icy trail, I make an effort every 5 miles or so to pull off into the loose snow and kick skid full of snow. Takes 20 seconds. Snow then seems to stick & pack to the rails, and melt down onto the slides when the temps heat up from the hardpack.
When my idlers wear out I'll consider installing the oversized Excels, but for now, this seems to have done the trick.
Weapon X
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Do bearings in those little wheels every season they wear out fast.
First one or two sets bearings were shot in a few hundred.Lost a wheel even.Not sure why but they seem to be holding up on mine now.Maybe original bearings were bad?
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
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- 3,564
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- Snowmobile
- 2009 Phazer RTX
I lost a wheel right off the bearing on by third ride. dealer gave me a new wheel and bearing and have about 2000km's on them and they are holding in there and are still in great shape.
YammyRX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have the clips with holes in them and I don't think the sharp edges have anything to do with it, but the dirt and stones that get stuck in them probably aren't good. The biggest factors seem to be small wheels, bad conditions (no snow) and I found that a track with some closed windows worked better because it held the snow in longer. My current track has all open windows and Hyfax wear is awful.
17Rambler
Pro
On the Vector board someone always blames too tight a track. Says Yamaha's specs are too tight.
Ultrafrozen
Expert
So if the trails I ride on aren't icy and there's lots of snow then all should be good?
adrenaline junkey
Expert
Ultrafrozen said:So if the trails I ride on aren't icy and there's lots of snow then all should be good?
Depends on the lug height anything over about 1.25 you should be running scratchers or be kicking snow in your skid
oicu812
Veteran
Going against conventional wisdom is a real bitch.
If you add the low snow wheels you are paying money to destroy your rails.It creates a localized impact point in an extremely weak part of the rail.In fact its somewhat wise to remove the existing outside wheels(removing another localized impact point).In comparison hyfax is extremely cheap.Just one rail failure can wipe out your track(not likely but possible).Not to mention the price of the rail.
Tension is key to hyfax life.If you arn't ratcheting under power on hard landings,you are unneccessarily tight.Your track and drivers will last thousands of miles ratcheting on occasion(and free up horsepower too!).One suspension failure can wipe out everything(read expensive).
Flame away nonbeleivers!
If you add the low snow wheels you are paying money to destroy your rails.It creates a localized impact point in an extremely weak part of the rail.In fact its somewhat wise to remove the existing outside wheels(removing another localized impact point).In comparison hyfax is extremely cheap.Just one rail failure can wipe out your track(not likely but possible).Not to mention the price of the rail.
Tension is key to hyfax life.If you arn't ratcheting under power on hard landings,you are unneccessarily tight.Your track and drivers will last thousands of miles ratcheting on occasion(and free up horsepower too!).One suspension failure can wipe out everything(read expensive).
Flame away nonbeleivers!
Weapon X
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
EXCELL WHEELS
solid cheap fix
solid cheap fix
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Messages
- 3,564
- Location
- Winnipeg, Manitoba
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2009 Phazer RTX
I was under the impression the excell wheels won't help out the wear up at the front of the rails. Is this true?
The only place I really had trouble with was at the front bend.
The only place I really had trouble with was at the front bend.
Weapon X
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Oh you know what I've had lo sno wheels for a long time so I wouldn't be sure if they would work on that part but they wouldn't be worse.
YammyRX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
Also, I tightened the limiter straps after destroying the first set of Hyfax and the second set are wearing about half as fast.
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