small marks in rear heat exchanger??

shawnj

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On my 2010 atex ltx gt, with 1.045 studs, is seems that there may have been slight contact with rear heat exchanger. Maybe a mm or two deep. Not sure when this would of happend. Only have 600kms on sled. Only thing I can think of is off a bit of air came down and nicked it. Don't remember any air to speak of , but some bumps though. At times I like to get a bit of air on the humps and bumps but haven't even tried that yet!!.. Is there an adjsutment to get a tiny bit more clearance here. Oh ya, yes there is protectors on here too.
 
just put a rear heat exchanger in my dads 06 attack and he was nicking it a little bit with the studs (his studs are a little longer down the middle too) so i went to the hardware store, bout a piece of 1" by 1/4" aluminum flat stock to drill and rivet on to the existing tunnel protecters..
That worked out fine
But you should not puncture the heat exchange with the size studs you have on the 2010, i haven't heard of anyone doing so unless they throw a stud out of the track.
 
As apexg88 said, add something to increase the tunnel protetor. The lugs on the ripsaw track are a little soft & when you have bottomed your shock the studs have been nicking your exchanger. I had the same issue with my attak when I added the rear exchanger, now running the IceRipper XT so no longer an issue for me.
 
A pic of my (ex) '06 Attak: Dealer installed the steel bars, they weren't tall enough to prevent dinging the heat ex so I did a quick fix to add to it.
 

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ez fix

screw or rivet a piece of hyfax on to your tunnel guards. works great cheep, last for thousands of miles. mine are about 10 " long w/ 6 small rivets.
 
I was thinking on the hyfax screwed there too. I have a few pieces left. If I counter bore hyfax so a sheet metal screw sinks in a bit that should hold shouldn't it??
 
If you Install it upsidedown, so the flat part is UP, your screw go's between the ?part that would slide onto the rail. no need to counter sink. I used rivets. We did 1 with SS nut & bolt 3/16 -every 3"
 
Went out for a couple hours and checked heat exchanger as I know I launched sled once or twice not really on purpose. It got mashed up pretty good. Hope it holds together. I'm away so have no way to add any xtra protection until Sunday.
 
With all the measurements I took, I needed to add 1". Used aluminum square stock, with countersunk bolts and riv-nuts, 9" long. 2 nights ago. Went out last night and put it to the test with my small 330 lb figure, bunch of drift jumpin and now we're not hitting the cooler. I put a light coat of paint on the cooler to verify. BTW, mine has 900 miles and was way more than "nicking", more like "ripping"! Do have the right spring, setup, etc. Hygear
 
rear heat exchanger

I have a 09 ltx less than 200 miles on it and my heat exchanger has been destroyed. Took it to the dealer and they said the rear shock failed and that was why picks chewed it up. BULLS**T they wouldn't cover heat exchanger.Took it up to moosehead following weekend same thing chewed it up some more. I found a heat exchanger online for 300.00 and installed it myself and went to home depot picked up some aluminum 1in. square and 1/8in. flat. Riveted the square to the flat and then the flat to the existing tunnel protectors. Also the most important thing to do is crank the tension on the spring up I turned it in 4 spins it doesn't come near the exchanger now. Also one of the other causes is the rip junk track flexes when it hits the tunnel protector and it allows picks to come up a little further. Even if you don't have time to increase tunnel protector crank the tension on spring up 3-5 clicks I guarantee you will not have a problem. 300 miles last weekend no problems now if I could only keep my hands warm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Well just got home from wknd. Got sled melting off in shop now. Found two pieces os hyfax about a foot long off one of our previous Polaris sleds. I'm going to try and form the curve in the already existing protectors. In order to centre the hyfax on the piece Ill have to predrill and countersink through the one side. It'll still ba flat side up so hopefully the other side down will do the trick. Wish I had a right angle drill attatchment!
 


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