Some more internet racing...06 Apex vs 06 800x P-tec

MCApex44

TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Western New York, Chautauqua County
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Snowmobile
2014 Viper RTX SE (sold)
A snowmobiling bud of mine just bought a used (2,500 miles) 06 ski-doo 800x p-tec. It has a Cudney clutch kit and dropped tooth to (I believe) 26? His sled has a 1.25" track with 144 studs.

I have an 06 Apex ER (3,400ish miles) with an Ulmer Stage 3 clutch kit with the 23T. I am in the midst of changing out my track (I will have it done by winter) to a 128" Cobra and plan on adding 153 studs.

I weigh 50lbs more than he does but I have a quicker thumb...lol.

What do you guys think? I am curious to know. I think it should be a good race. Lets say 1,000 ft...since we do not have too many "long stretches" around here to run them.
 
I never heard of anyone having an issue with those older 800s..

THe xp on the other hand is very QUICK but has no top end..
 
I came off a 800 REV x and I could beat my old sled time and time again. Me on Apex, buddy on rev and visa versa. My 800 REV was "very well set up" and the Apex is stock with 144 studs!
 
Well hear are the results...

15 degrees, semi-hardpack (out on the lake).

06 Apex (my mods are listed below)
vs
06 Rev x-model 800ho P-tec (clutched and re-geared--I dont know what gears).

It was a long race. Bottom all the way to a extended top end run. I jump him out of the hole by 2-3 sled lengths. He said he spun a bit out of the hole but I did a bit as well. I thought I had him beat bad but mid-range he caught right up to me and then we stayed side by side through out top end.

We have a bit of adjusting to do on my sled since I was running 11,100 RPM at WOT. Not sure if that is why he caught me on mid-range. I am probably losing some HP because of the high RPM's.

We ran them from 60mph on as well and he would jump out 1 sled length and we would stay even from that point on.
 
I'm running into the same clutching issue. I have a Ulmer Stage II with 23t top gear, 06 RTX, 168 1.450 studs, fix air box, CR10ek plugs. I get out of the hole fast but I lose ground in the mid range. I am also running right at 11,000
 
Wow I annihalate my buddies PTEK from start to finish. He has Cudney head and clutching 120 inch cobra with 128 picks geared down one tooth. I have 07 RTX Ram air Hauk Exhast and helix plus fule processor
 
Just for the hell of it run him with stock clutching. I think you will be very surprised :flag:
 
One thing I forgot to mention is he is 190lbs and I am the big two five oh...but putting that aside...that was on Sunday and Monday I took my sled back to the dealer cause my exhaust sprung a leak again. I spoke with the dealer today and they said it was the right side manifold and Y-pipe that went bad this time.

So...once I get the exhaust fixed again and the rpms down from 11,100 to 10,800 at WOT...I will run him again hopefully with better results. Not sure how much the exhaust and the high RPM's are hurting me but we will see. I cant avoid the weight dif in the near future but I am planning on working on that too..lol
 
My Apex was doing the exact same thing this past Saturday in the exact same scenario....except my results were not as favourable. After pulling out 2 lengths ahead, not only did the Rev hunt me down...it passed me and led me to the end of the Lake. 11100 rpm's WOT. What adjustment will bring the RPM's down to 10700?

'07 ER w/ 23T on top.
 
If you guys are running that high, you really have 2 options. one is temporary... Once a belt gets about 800-1000+miles on it, the sleds starts to run a higher RPM. If you are using the stock clutching, then it's time to change your belt. It will bring the RPM down to 10,800 and pull harder all the way through the RPM range. Anything over 10,900 on a stocker and the ECU starts pulling back timing and that is why you guys are losing mid and top end.

If you have a new belt and stock clutching and you are over reving (running 10,900-11,000+), then I would have some one weld a gram of weld to the tip of the weights. This will bring you back in line in the RPM range (10,800), since you cannot add any more weight to stock ones.

If you have an after market clutch kit, then I would add more weight to the tip. 1 washer...

For some reason these belts start making the sled run alot of RPM once they reach about 800-1000miles. They will last way longer, but the sled does not perform the same. Guys that are stock, meaning without a fuel/ign controller, should be running now more than 10,800 all the way through the RPM range.

Also, when you change your belt clean your clutch faces with a scotch bright pad and ascetone, brake cleaner or hot soapy water. Clean your new belt with hot soappy water first before you install it.

I clean my clutch faces every 300 miles.
 
If you guys have your transfer set-up that you cannot lift the skies off the hole shot, your going to lose everytime. The machine will not put the power to the snow. Before i adjusted mine i lost multiple races against rev800. Now i dust em.
 


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