Some more internet racing...06 Apex vs 06 800x P-tec

[SledFreak]

If you guys have your transfer set-up that you cannot lift the skies off the hole shot, your going to lose everytime. The machine will not put the power to the snow. Before i adjusted mine i lost multiple races against rev800. Now i dust em.

Yep, transfer should be set @max.

 

[yamahahaapex]

so put the transfer straps all the way to the back of the sled? or max for example

 

[SledFreak]

You mean transfer Rod? What's a transfer strap?

 

[Mighty]

He meant Limiter straps.

 

[fourload]

I've got the ulmer stage 3 kit too. When I did a few mods and the sled was fully broken in I had to add a washer (1 gram I think) to the tip of the supertip weights to bring the rpm's back to 10800 on hardpack or ice. Before I did this I was getting 11,000 plus.

 

[XDooMan]

I am sitting with about 900 - 1000km's on this belt. Forgot to mention white secondary spring. I'm going to add a shim to the secondary to adjust the belt height and see what that does......

 

[MCApex44]

If you guys are running that high, you really have 2 options. one is temporary... Once a belt gets about 800-1000+miles on it, the sleds starts to run a higher RPM. If you are using the stock clutching, then it's time to change your belt. It will bring the RPM down to 10,800 and pull harder all the way through the RPM range. Anything over 10,900 on a stocker and the ECU starts pulling back timing and that is why you guys are losing mid and top end.

If you have a new belt and stock clutching and you are over reving (running 10,900-11,000+), then I would have some one weld a gram of weld to the tip of the weights. This will bring you back in line in the RPM range (10,800), since you cannot add any more weight to stock ones.

If you have an after market clutch kit, then I would add more weight to the tip. 1 washer...

For some reason these belts start making the sled run alot of RPM once they reach about 800-1000miles. They will last way longer, but the sled does not perform the same. Guys that are stock, meaning without a fuel/ign controller, should be running now more than 10,800 all the way through the RPM range.

Also, when you change your belt clean your clutch faces with a scotch bright pad and ascetone, brake cleaner or hot soapy water. Clean your new belt with hot soappy water first before you install it.

I clean my clutch faces every 300 miles.

Yes, I am at about a 1,000 miles on the belt. I will follow your cleaning tips for the belt and clutch. My sled is at the dealer getting the manifold and y-pipe fixed so I told them to go ahead and throw on a new belt.

I have my transfer rod set at 3/4 max...I guess I will adjust it a bit farther towards max cause I am not getting 'much' ski lift off the line and I can feel the ski pressure at mid and top. I think the big-boy spring may play a roll in that also.

The sled was running at 10,800 last season but in the off-season we added the 40 gear and 128" cobra track. Those changes knocked the rpms down to 10,300. We then took out 1 washer which currently put the sled at 11,100 at WOT. We had one day where the temps were a bit warmer and the rpms dropped a bit but not down to 10,800. I PM'd Allan and he mentioned to try adding just a screw or taking the spring-rap from 6-3 to 6-2 (if I recall his directions correctly). I now just need the sled back from the dealer.

 

[SledFreak]

If you guys are running that high, you really have 2 options. one is temporary... Once a belt gets about 800-1000+miles on it, the sleds starts to run a higher RPM. If you are using the stock clutching, then it's time to change your belt. It will bring the RPM down to 10,800 and pull harder all the way through the RPM range. Anything over 10,900 on a stocker and the ECU starts pulling back timing and that is why you guys are losing mid and top end.

If you have a new belt and stock clutching and you are over reving (running 10,900-11,000+), then I would have some one weld a gram of weld to the tip of the weights. This will bring you back in line in the RPM range (10,800), since you cannot add any more weight to stock ones.

If you have an after market clutch kit, then I would add more weight to the tip. 1 washer...

For some reason these belts start making the sled run alot of RPM once they reach about 800-1000miles. They will last way longer, but the sled does not perform the same. Guys that are stock, meaning without a fuel/ign controller, should be running now more than 10,800 all the way through the RPM range.

Also, when you change your belt clean your clutch faces with a scotch bright pad and ascetone, brake cleaner or hot soapy water. Clean your new belt with hot soappy water first before you install it.

I clean my clutch faces every 300 miles.

Yes, I am at about a 1,000 miles on the belt. I will follow your cleaning tips for the belt and clutch. My sled is at the dealer getting the manifold and y-pipe fixed so I told them to go ahead and throw on a new belt.

I have my transfer rod set at 3/4 max...I guess I will adjust it a bit farther towards max cause I am not getting 'much' ski lift off the line and I can feel the ski pressure at mid and top. I think the big-boy spring may play a roll in that also.

The sled was running at 10,800 last season but in the off-season we added the 40 gear and 128" cobra track. Those changes knocked the rpms down to 10,300. We then took out 1 washer which currently put the sled at 11,100 at WOT. We had one day where the temps were a bit warmer and the rpms dropped a bit but not down to 10,800. I PM'd Allan and he mentioned to try adding just a screw or taking the spring-rap from 6-3 to 6-2 (if I recall his directions correctly). I now just need the sled back from the dealer.

Run it to see what the new belt does first...

 

[vmax80096]

Why not just add more weight to the stock ramps. Stock has 4.5 gram rivet in it....go to 5.5 grams and see. Why would you get rid of a belt that is just broken in?

 

[SledFreak]

It takes 30 miles to break in a belt, not a 1000. Like I said they may will last a long time 3-4000miles, but the performance loses a little after a while... Yes, you could add more weight. The stock weight has the biggest rivits in the weights.

Yamaha makes 6 different weight rivets, 4.5g, 3.6, 3.1, 2.7, 2.4 and .85 gram rivets.

Stock is all 4.5g rivets in each hole (3 holes per weight)

You could also change the secondary buttons, which could be worn and that will help bring the RPM down a bit as well. If you have 3-4000miles on your sled, it would not hurt to replace those as well.

 

[MCApex44]

Question, if the ECU pulls back timing anything over 10,900...(until we get the RPM's back to range) would it be better then keeping the throttle 'not' at WOT but enough to get the sled to 10,800.

The new belt was just coincidence because my sled is in for service anyways and my spare is bad. I ran a new belt at the beginning of it all so the sled was seeing 11,000+ rpms with a new belt and the same or a bit higher with a belt with 1,000 or so miles on the belt.

 

[SledFreak]

No because you are not using the power of the motor.. If you are still pulling 11,000 on a new belt, then clean the clutch faces like I said earlier. If you are still pulling 11,000, then change the buttons in the secondary. If you are still pulling 11,000, then you have a good motor and you need to add tip weight. Either weld a gram to the tip of the stock weights or get a set of drag&flys and adjust accordingly. Either way on a stocker you need to be at no more than 10,800.

 

[vmax80096]

As I said in my previous post add a bigger rivet to the tip. Get a 270 rifle bullet and put it in the tip...they weigh 6.5 grams!

 

[polarisconvert]

One more thing to think about. At the end of last year my 05 RX1 was pulling 10900-11000rpms. It would pull those rpms right from a dig. I also thought it might be my belt or sled getting broke in a little more and making more power. I put on a new belt and she pulled the same rpms (the belt was wore). Then I called Ted Jennetty (I have his clutch kit) and asked what he thought and if I should add some weight? He said no, he said my clutches were dirty. That if I cleaned them it would bring my rpms back down. I was going that weeked riding and didn't have time to tear appart my clutches. So I put it on a stand and took a can of braked clean, started my sled and sprayed down both clutches from the outside. Make sure you don't get any on the clutch faces.
I took it out on some good hard pack. It pulls 10000 out of the hole and pulls like a beast, then goes up to 10500 with in 50-100 ft. Still a little high, should be 10200. I need to pull them appart and clean them good and then retest. Any how the sled runs much better.
Just a thought.
Bruce

 

[SledFreak]

He was propbably referring to the faces where the belt has contact with the clutch. Not that they were'nt dirty, but you don't really see much of an increase in RPM, just because the clutches itself are dirty. It's usually the faces...