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some wicked cheap, wicked bright headlights


I have to do something too I went out tonight and got reminded really quick how bad the stock lighting really is. High beam in the trees and low beam over driving at any speed above 60. I really hate to spend another $225+ on HID lights but I am really tired of the stock lighting being so bad!
 
After having HID's in my Nytro I wouldn't mess around with anything else. High output bulbs will melt the plug on the bulb, maybe the lamp lens as well but the plug will go first. I've seen it happen and it will cause a short, think about trying to ge to that area on a Phazer trailside! Forget about it, I'm not even sure you could get snow in that area to try and put out a fire (of course we would have to have snow to begin with) :o|. There are HID kits that you could make work for fairly cheap, but you may get what you pay for. I have the kit from here and have to say it was a nice unit, packaged well, put together well, and had zero issues with it. In fact, it out survived my Nytro S.E. so I would say it passes the durability test. Running the super bright 100 watt bulbs sucks for oncoming traffic, I can alway tell who has them and basically want to clothesline them as I go by. You just can't see with the glare they produce. I'm sure the HID's aren't totally friendly either but at least they have the deflector in them. That is until you remove it, I left mine in for that reason. One thing to think about, when switching to "highbeam" on the HIDs all that happens is the bulb moves to change the beam, so you can adjust the beam low for passing traffic and day time running, then flip the high beam on and run all night without worries of current draw. The ballasts are very thin and easy to mount, the bulk of wires and connectors is really the only fitment issue, you can find a way, it's been done.
 
The Phazer stator only has about 35w to spare so you will be over taxing the stator with 100w bulbs. I'm personally thinking of getting a cheap 4300k lowbeam only hid kit and adding a pair of Rigid LED lights to the front bumper of my phazer for highs. I'd wire it up so the low beam stayed on when I flip to high beam. This way I can aim the lows where I want and not have to worry about only seeing tree tops with the highs. I have a pair of Rigid LED Floods on my Rancher and they WAY outshine the headlights on that.
 
went to the auto/electric store for a air and oil filter for the dmax (ac/delco dealer), and noticed a pair of PIAA starwhite anti vibration bulbs. 70 dollars for a pair. so i bought them. they had normal h4 bulbs PIAA bulbs for 50 bucks, but the guy said for a sled to buy the antivibration powersports bulbs. no noticable difference from my 10 dollar ebay chinese bulbs, but the battery shows .6 more volts at 2200 rpm. took a big load off the stator, hopefully have better hand grips now!
 
PIAA's are 55/60 watt, or something like that,but they are Xenon charged and throw out light like a 100 watt bulb. But the PIAA bulbs do not use any more of your stator's power than the stock bulbs on high beam, at most. But they are nearly as bright as HID's. They are a great option to HID's if one wants such an option.

Dont get me wrong, I have HID's in my Attak and love them. And Sled Start has the best customer service and products. But if you don't want to install HID's there are other options, all I'm sayin'.
 
agreed. sled start hid's are 240 at my dealer, and a high quality hid set at the auto/electric store is 150 dollars but has wayyy more wire length then sled starts, that youd have to cut off and shorten or bundle up. for 70 dollars i couldnt give em up. and some of you guys on this thread recomended them.
 
from what i've read the silverstars are for automotive lights where there is alot less bangin around and less vibrations. these PIAA lights are specifically made for powersports to handle the large amount of vibrations
 
smalltownpower said:
agreed. sled start hid's are 240 at my dealer, and a high quality hid set at the auto/electric store is 150 dollars but has wayyy more wire length then sled starts, that youd have to cut off and shorten or bundle up. for 70 dollars i couldnt give em up. and some of you guys on this thread recomended them.
Click to expand...

SledToyz is a sledstart dealer.......... ;)!
 
just made a last minute order with them. prepping the phazer to go to the bush for new years. its about a 80km ride all cross country, no ditches old roads. took for a rip to the corner and back when it started to backfire slightly. got home, put on my welding glove and put it over the exhaust. no change. ordered some thistledoo nutz for the same price of oem. hid's and oilight lower ball joints arnt a necessity for the sled to run properly haha
 
Hey guys,

Not here to hijack the thread. Just to make sure guys do their homework before they decide weather to go HID or Halogen. And if they go HID what NOT to get. First off don't run the high watt bulbs. Not a good idea. They will run way hotter in temp and over time the 3 prong plugs will be junk from the heat and they can distort or delaminate the reflective coating in the housing (I have seen it) Not to mention the additional stator draw (especially if you have other aftermarket goodies on the sled) A stator will not necessarily fry immediately. It can deteriorate over time. A good quality HID bulb should run close too or a few degrees cooler than a stock bulb and will draw less because they are 35 Watt bulb on both high and low beam.

Next, whatever you do don't get caught up in the "more is better" in HID's. It can cause you to have terrible glare and reflection. Especially on a cold day in a heavy snow dust or in a snowstorm. Ever turn your high beams on in a blizzard? Thats what you will get. Even a 3000K bulb is WAY brighter than most any halogen bulb you can throw in the sled.

When we presented the SledStart kit to Yamaha we had already ridden and tested all the bulbs over the course of 2 seasons. (3000,4300,6000, and 8000K's) Without doubt anything over the 4300's was too much for not only oncoming traffic but for a WHITE trail. Remember a car is mostly reflecting light off dark pavement. A white trail reacts much different with light. Plus who in their right mind want to blind a sled coming at them? With the very specific testing Yamaha did, there would have been no way to get a kit approved with 6K or above bulbs. Also we have seen different manufactures rating for a bulb vary, so you can think your running a 6K or whatever and it really is not. It does depend on the quality of the manufacturing process. One more thing to note is that between 4000 and 5000K is the whitest of white. Anything above will start to give a blue tint. The more blue the less white, meaning a poorer lite overall. the higher you go beyond 6K the worse the light is. This is a fact. Look at any ricer running down the road with high K value bulbs and the light to the road is terrible. It's just bling at that point.

As someone here already mentioned the SledStart harness is custom fit and has watertight connectors and fuse holders. We have continued to fine tune the kit over the past 3 seasons. The latest bulb we are using is a full aluminum bulb with a very tight sliding sleeve to reduce vibration in the bulb itself. (see picture below) This is a common complaint in a sled bouncing down the trail with a true Bi-Xenon bulb since the bulb has a sliding sleeve and not all bulbs have a tight tolerance. We even saw that they would vary not only batch to batch but within the batch. This was because it was all plastic. The pictures below will show the difference in the amount of play in the bulb's sliding mechanism. A TRUE BI-Xenon bulb will allow the bulb to slide in and out for high beam function. Many inexpensive kits will say BI-Xenon and they are sticking it to you. They have a true Xenon bulb for the low beam but it is stationary and does not move. The high beam is a tiny halogen bulb next to it about the size of a bulb in the dash of your car! It's a total joke. I bought a set to take to the shows. (see the picture below) But this is how they get around the words "Bi-Xenon" They are giving you a high beam. it's just useless that's all. Then there are the bulbs that will move but they do not move in and out. Instead just a slight upward movement is made. We tested these and they are useless. They make absolutely no difference and just throw light in all directions. This movement of the bulb is done with a small magnetic coil at the base of the bulb. It is important that the bulb use a magnet coil. Some will be mechanical and will freeze and not work.


We have really tried to make this the best kit we can for use on a snowmobile. We have also asked for and listened to customer feedback and will continue to do so.
We have recently released a new patch cable that is now included in all kits. You still have the harness to the battery in the kit, or they can be run without the harness to the battery by using the patch cables direct to the 3 prong light sockets making it for a nice clean install. So you get both options for the install. We have also recently changed the ballast to a new design. It is still slim line ballast but will adapt to the patch cables better than some of the early ballasts that we used. If you have any questions about this or the rest of the kit just contact us at support@sledstart.com and I'll be happy to reply there (and can reply faster than here in most cases)

Personally after running HID's I will never run anything else. A typical HID bulb will last 3500 to 4000 hours. A typical Silverstar will last 400 if your lucky and in most cases shorter because it's on a sled. That is why I designed this kit. I love to night ride and I was sick of crappy lights and Silverstars burning out at $40.00 a set. Also I find that the HID's dramatically help the "hole" between high and low beam on the Yamaha's. This is all because of the design of the housing and because the HID's throw more overall light it really helps this problem. Plus the 4300's really seem to cut through the snowdust better than anything else I have ridden with.

Happy New Year to all! :-o

Kurt


BELOW IS THE STYLE BULB PRIMARILY FOUND ON THE MARKET.
OriginalBulb.jpg



BELOW IS THE NEW STYLE SLEDSTART BULBS
NewHIDBulb.jpg


bulbs.jpg


BELOW IS WHAT YOU DON'T WANT! AND I DON'T CARE WHAT THEY SAY THERE IS NO WAY THIS IS A 65 WATT BULB. (THIS IS WHAT THEY CLAIM) THE HIGH BEAM BULB IS LIKE A NIGHT LIGHT BULB. IT WAS A JOKE
nonbi-xenon.jpg
 
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