spacing stock skies to make a wider stance

[arteeex]

How in the H$LL are you guys able to mount the bolt in the front most hole? It took everything I could do to get them to mount in the center hole. The stock rubbers just wont line up to allow it. The rubbers are absolutel jammed to fit inside the angled aluminum pieces.

Blow on it.

You're sure you have the V2 or V3 mounts on your Simmon's? If so, lay the ski rubber in place, get the ski started on to the spindle with the spacers and bushing in place. Then lower the sled and use its weight to help compress the rubber. I used a larger Phillips screwdriver (smaller than the ski bolt) as a drift pin to help align the holes. It went together pretty easy with this method. When I moved to the forward mounting hole I cut a small chunk off the front corners of the rubber to make space for the nuts that hold the bracket to the skis.

There's a photo at the link below.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=708130#708130

 

[sledsearcher]

hmm . . . my mounts don't look like the ones pictured. Mine have an L shapped bracket at the front and back of the mount which "hold" the rubber in place. This bracket is EXACTLY as big as the rubber which doesn't allow you to move to the front hole...unless, like SJ said, I can some how move them forward...never tried that.

I am sure when this is all over I am going to feel stupid but just keeping the rubber inside the brackets is difficult with the ski off the sled. Then you try and weseal the spindle and bolt in its a PIA.

 

[arteeex]

take your ski rubber....lay it in the mount in the forward hole (with both angles off) you will now see the only way the angles can go back on whereas they wont interfere with the rubber..

Is the V3 a multi-piece mount? The V2 mount is a single formed piece of stainless, not aluminum.

 

[**sj**]

when you switch the L shaped brackets around , rotate them 180 degrees! doing this off memory...
as to mounting on the machine...you need to use (some )(a machine stand is helpful) of the machines weight...then use a screwdriver or thin punch as a drift tool as mentioned....I then use a small pry bar under this side carbide...remove the drift pin and use a rubber hammer to tap the bolt in somewhat...then use the combo of the pry bar under the other side carbide to lift against the weight of the machine and move the ski loop to manipulate til the hole lines up ....tap the bolt the balance of the way..

 

[MOUNTY]

When I first installed my simmons, I placed the spacers large to the outside and narrow on the inner. Second ride I tried both spacers on the outer, one washer against the spindle and the sled was more stable in all conditions, the only shock adjustment I did was less rebound dampening three clicks. No excess darting etc..

 

[**sj**]

When I first installed my simmons, I placed the spacers large to the outside and narrow on the inner. Second ride I tried both spacers on the outer, one washer against the spindle and the sled was more stable in all conditions, the only shock adjustment I did was less rebound dampening three clicks. No excess darting etc..

how many miles like this and what about bushing wear?

 

[MOUNTY]

About 200miles so far, no noticable bushing wear as of yet.

 

[MOUNTY]

Conditions were pretty harsh on the trails, lots of pounding, hard packed snow, a little on the lake. The snow around here has dissapeared quite a bit. (It is snowing pretty good right now though).