Spring Removal From Rear Shock

cnybrian

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2006 Yamaha Attak
LOCATION
Cato, NY
Have a 2006 Attak I am doing summer maintenance work on. I have the rear skid totally removed since I am doing a rail replacement, new track, etc. I am planning on having the shocks sent out for a revalve and rebuild. What is the best way to remove the spring from the rear shock??
 
i would say measure/mark where it is 1st. then back the spring tension all the way off. it should relax the spring enough for you to be able to push down on the spring and then pull the slotted washer out. that is how I did the olins ones I did on a rxwar I did this summer.
 
You will need a spring compression tool. The mono shock does not have threaded spanner nuts like the front skis shocks. Even if you back off the preload to the softest step you will never compress that mono spring by hand. Who ever is doing the shock will be able to remove it. If you are having the shocks dialed in they really should have the spring anyway to take that into account.
 
good to know. never really played with a mono yet.
 
I use a cheap strut spring compressor tool that can be found at any auto parts store. It's basically a large threaded bolt with hooks on the end.
Hook it onto the spring, screw it down, slip out the lock collar and then slide off the spring.
If you are rebuilding the shock you may want to look into changing out the spring as well. The factory spring is good for a 160 lb basic trail rider.
A Big Boy spring with the revalve may be better if you like to hits some bumps.
 
Picked up a strut spring removal kit yesterday but the hooks are too big and wont fit inside the mono spring....grrrrrrrrrrrr.
 
Grinding wheel is the key for that issue. I have ground atleast 50% of the hooks away to may it work.
 
Ground down the hooks on the spring compression tool? Wouldn't that degrade the strength of the metal and risk failure?
 
The spring on the sled is not nearly under the same pressure as a strut spring for which the tool was designed for. Have been using my modified spring tool for the past 6 years without an issue.
Even works well on my 6.5kn Big Boy spring.
 
I left mine on and the shock rebuilder took care of it.

But in the past I came up with a down and dirty way to compress a spring with no special tools- just get a bunch of good quality zip ties and put them around the coils one at a time down both sides of the spring. Then compress the spring with channel locks one coil at a time and tighten the zip ties as you go. For heavier springs you might need zip ties in four places around the spring.
 
I left mine on and the shock rebuilder took care of it.

But in the past I came up with a down and dirty way to compress a spring with no special tools- just get a bunch of good quality zip ties and put them around the coils one at a time down both sides of the spring. Then compress the spring with channel locks one coil at a time and tighten the zip ties as you go. For heavier springs you might need zip ties in four places around the spring.

Hope and pray them zip ties don't decide to all slide over to one side. :confused:
 
I thought about that, but was trying to reduce the shipping costs.
Have a 2006 Attak I am doing summer maintenance work on. I have the rear skid totally removed since I am doing a rail replacement, new track, etc. I am planning on having the shocks sent out for a revalve and rebuild. What is the best way to remove the spring from the rear shock??
I tried the auto strut tool, same problem , hooks too fat. Go to Home Depot and buy a couple of rachet straps usually in the tool department. Make sure they are the "endless type" with no hooks. Use one on each side of the coil spring and tighten rachet to compress spring alternating from side to side. Works great and does not scratch the coil spring. I did this on both of my mono Attaks. Rachet webbing was either 1" or 1 1/2", can't remember. Very easy to do this way. Reverse procedure to install. By the way, when you use these, insert the webbing between the opening between the coils at the top or bottom, run webbing next to the shock body and back out the other end and along the outside of the spring to complete the circle.
 
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