..Stiffler..
Pro
im having a problem with my sled....
I said this in a few other topics...sry for the repeat...
I bought the 03 rx1 it has 2400km on it.
It had White knuckle exhaust qc-1 on it and it was running like crap...so I thought carbs werent sync properly.
So i changed back to the stock pipes so I could ride it for the week. Anyway it ran great for about 100km then all of a sudden I had loss of power and sputtered and burping all over. So i thought ok plugs maybe fouled up...so I changed the plugs to cr10ek's. Hopped on and the same thing...no difference. So I took the exhaust of and one of the gaskets ended up turning sideways in the tube...So awesome...i fixed it and still same problem....Then I installed my White Knuckle again just to see if maybe it was the stock pipes. Tried it and exact same thing. Althogh did seem to run a bit better with the WK pipes (maybe the performance is better) then I even tried takin out the air box guts to see if there was a plug there or something.
basically this is what its doing.
I get on let it warm up and i go. low end it feels great but as soon as I get to about 6k rpm it just bogges. I cant hit over 60km an hour unless i feather the throttle. It feels like it wants to go but something is holding it back.
Also we lifted it up so the track was off the ground and my ddad thinks its missing a bit...but not to sure.
My next thing is to clean and sync the carbs.
Anyone have any other ideas? or had similar problems?
That sounds like your tors is acting up or your carbs need to be cleaned. Bypass the tors by unplugging the bullet connectors two of them and just hook the two that you took apart together. Look up by passing tors in search.
AaronBND
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Wouldn't rev up at all if it was TORS! I would start at the carb needles. If it is running good up to 6K, I would look at the needles, main jets, check float levels and sync them. What altitude was it at when you bought it and where is it at now? Make sure you have o-rings and washers w/ every needle! Pull the bowls and see if they are varnished. If so, clean them. It's not rocket science, but it needs to be right. Good luck!
Aaron
Aaron
givemeaboost
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2003
- Messages
- 689
- Location
- Great Falls, MT.
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 03 Rx1 Turbo
- LOCATION
- Great Falls,MT
Just a wild guess but did somebody put fuel shutoffs on it and if so are they open all the way ?
Yakuza
Expert
Another wild guess.... I would take a look at your carb slides. Make sure their moving up and down properly.
BlgsRX-1mtn
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2003
- Messages
- 1,530
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- Billings, MT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '03 RX-1 Mountain LE
Stiffler, If the carbs are all clean and properly synched. Check to see if all cylinders are getting fuel. I have seen instances of the fuel pump failing on the RX-1s. If that's not the issue, see what I did below (I had the same problem with my '03 prior to the Super Chager install).
Look at the carb closest to you fuel pumps and see if the previous owner installed a shut off valve for the engine coolant line that heats the carb bodies. It is the line that goes to the front of the carbs just above the intake. You can just make out the red handle on my shut off valve overlapping the vent hose running across the back side of the carbs.
Alot of us a valve to help with the fuel vapor locking when taking a break caused by the hot coolant that runs through the carbs . If your sled has one; crack it open just enough to let coolant leak past. I found that the issue was caused by my carbs icing up. Ice can form at high temperatures if the air temps are within it's "dewpoint range". T
this is why you'll see a guy squirting alchohol into the intake of a blower on a dragster after he does a burn out.
If you don't have a coolant shutoff; try installing one to see if that will help (maybe your fuel is vapor locking).
Jim
Look at the carb closest to you fuel pumps and see if the previous owner installed a shut off valve for the engine coolant line that heats the carb bodies. It is the line that goes to the front of the carbs just above the intake. You can just make out the red handle on my shut off valve overlapping the vent hose running across the back side of the carbs.
Alot of us a valve to help with the fuel vapor locking when taking a break caused by the hot coolant that runs through the carbs . If your sled has one; crack it open just enough to let coolant leak past. I found that the issue was caused by my carbs icing up. Ice can form at high temperatures if the air temps are within it's "dewpoint range". T
this is why you'll see a guy squirting alchohol into the intake of a blower on a dragster after he does a burn out.
If you don't have a coolant shutoff; try installing one to see if that will help (maybe your fuel is vapor locking).
Jim
Attachments
..Stiffler..
Pro
Thx all for the replies.
I tried the TORS (not it)
Next the carbs (clean and sync)
Next after that I will check coils
and if those arent it then I will move on to do other things you all mentioned.
Actually Rx1M5 (Paul) works with my dad (firemen) so my dad called him and those are the three things he mentioned. So we are going to try those and cross our fingers then ill move on to the next...and ill look into adding a shutoff as well....
thx all wish me luck
oh and i bought it in Edson Alberta and now its by Red Deer...so sea lvl i dont think would really change that much...
and nothing done to this sled...just White Knuckle pipes. Which I have installed now.
This sled is going to drive me to
I tried the TORS (not it)
Next the carbs (clean and sync)
Next after that I will check coils
and if those arent it then I will move on to do other things you all mentioned.
Actually Rx1M5 (Paul) works with my dad (firemen) so my dad called him and those are the three things he mentioned. So we are going to try those and cross our fingers then ill move on to the next...and ill look into adding a shutoff as well....
thx all wish me luck
oh and i bought it in Edson Alberta and now its by Red Deer...so sea lvl i dont think would really change that much...
and nothing done to this sled...just White Knuckle pipes. Which I have installed now.
This sled is going to drive me to
..Stiffler..
Pro
Oh and Aaron I looked up a price of an Apex seat here in Alberta....the girl at the parts counter told me $867.00 
i Told her it better suck and $#%@ for that price....
i Told her it better suck and $#%@ for that price....
AaronBND
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Just throw an ad in the classifieds. You'll find one!
Aaron
Aaron
..Stiffler..
Pro
Could this also be my problem
(found it in another post)
and if so can someone explain this a bit better..cant really understand this guy....sry im sled noob
Another thing to check is the interface between the airbox and the carbs.. if they can't suck a vaccuum they won't open up.. I've had this happen to me... I didn't understand it at the time.. it would hesitate under heavy accel... they it would come back.. well the accel would open that interface up, and allow the bot to come off the inner two carbs.. and they would back off.. After getting that back on right... it was all better..... no problems since.. so check that out it is a simple thing to check.
(found it in another post)
and if so can someone explain this a bit better..cant really understand this guy....sry im sled noob
GUKROKIT
Expert
..Stiffler..
Pro
Havent cleaned he carbs yet...im at home now and sled is at the cabin. But I will check those for sure.
where did you install the external fuel filters?
any pics?
and how hard was it?
where did you install the external fuel filters?
any pics?
and how hard was it?
Talked to your dad this morning and he was talking of bringing the sled in on nights. If it is still messed up I'll look at it on my first day next week. I have a copy of the service manual I'll give to your dad.
Rx1M5
Rx1M5
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Run your sled after dark and see if you have arcing going on from your coild (spark plug caps) to the head. If so, buy a tube of die-electric compound and put it on the spark plug caps (liberally). That should help.
Next I'd crack the coolant line valve as suggested above. I have seen this problem before too and just cracking the valve a bit eliminated the problem BUT if you are having the same problem in the garage then that isn't it.
Remove the carb slide covers and make darn sure the 4 tiny O rings are in place on the back side of the carb directly under the slide covers.
I had this happen once at McCall. I played with raising and lowing the needles and I can't remember what fixed it. I remember I unhooked my Holtzman ATACC and it seemed to work again. I hooked it back up a few minutes later and it worked fine the rest of the trip. Go figure.
Are your carb boots tight?
Where are your needles set?
What size mains do you have installed now?
How many turns out from seated are your air (or is it fuel)screws?
Is there a mouse nest in your air box?
That's all I can think of this minute.
Good luck.
Frosty
Next I'd crack the coolant line valve as suggested above. I have seen this problem before too and just cracking the valve a bit eliminated the problem BUT if you are having the same problem in the garage then that isn't it.
Remove the carb slide covers and make darn sure the 4 tiny O rings are in place on the back side of the carb directly under the slide covers.
I had this happen once at McCall. I played with raising and lowing the needles and I can't remember what fixed it. I remember I unhooked my Holtzman ATACC and it seemed to work again. I hooked it back up a few minutes later and it worked fine the rest of the trip. Go figure.
Are your carb boots tight?
Where are your needles set?
What size mains do you have installed now?
How many turns out from seated are your air (or is it fuel)screws?
Is there a mouse nest in your air box?
That's all I can think of this minute.
Good luck.
Frosty
