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SR Viper, clutching, belts, gearing information

Complete clutch kits in stock and turning around most clutches in 1 to 2 days. Also have secondary springs that will shift all the way out and also I can machine your stock helix or provide an aftermarket helix if you want to maintain your stock clutching.
 

Srxspec said:
I will share what I have tested and what I have found using the RTX/LTX models as a testing reference.

1. 8JP belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 93-95 mph.

2. 8DN belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 103-105 mph.

3. 8DN/8JP belt with secondary setup properly will allow you approximately 113-115 mph.

4. 8DN belt with both primary and secondary setup to match the belt properly will allow you approximately 120-121 mph.

The stock secondary setup with the 8JP belt will stop your belt approximately 3/8" to 1/2" below the top of the primary clutch due to two reasons, the stock secondary will stop shifting at that point and this stops the belt from going any higher in the primary as well.

Now if you install an 8DN belt you can get the belt to approximately 5/16" from the top of the primary and gain some top speed in the correct conditions.

Stock secondary clutch travel is approximately 0.870" and after setting up the secondary properly you can achieve just slightly over 1" of travel (1.008").

Stock primary clutch travel is approximately 1.104" of travel and after setting up the primary properly you can achieve 1.317" of travel and get the belt all the way to the top of the primary clutch, leaving no clutch face surface unused, in the correct conditions.

This is an informational post from Ulmer Racing, call us if you have questions, I do not want to offend or argue with anyone, as it will not help anyone in the end, and there is 100 different ways to alter clutching via the clutch arms, springs, helix, etc, but when the belt is limiting the shift ratio, changing those items will only do so much.

We will offer primary & secondary machining/setup process for those that are interested. You can purchase a clutch kit to match it or if you already have a Ulmer Racing clutch kit I will modify it to work properly as well. If you want to continue to use your own clutching, but want the clutches machined properly with some advice on how to setup your helix/spring I can do that as well.

Phone: 605-387-2833

Email: Srxspec@Gwtc.net


A couple of questions for you. Are these actual or theoretical speeds?? What distance are these speeds achieved. Thanks.
 
Good hard pack snow conditions and a RTX or LTX will run 112-113 mph with Option # 3 done. Anything above that (like option #4) will need boost to get it there. I had one customer with a turbo run 128 mph just a week ago after machining his clutches and setting up his clutching. I don't think you can get a naturally aspirated engine there without some serious internal work.
 
Clutches

Sucks that I'm in Canada, would cost me a fortune to ship back and forth my clutches. :(
OH yes Allan I caved bought a 2015 Viper, have spare clutches to do all this since I'm parting out NYTRO!
 
Did the nytro have these so called issues? If not why doesn't someone take a stock set of nytro clutches and throw them on and see what happens..certainly if the nytro clutches are the same as the viper is has to be pretty straight forward in getting a fix
 
Srxspec said:
I will share what I have tested and what I have found using the RTX/LTX models as a testing reference.

1. 8JP belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 93-95 mph.

2. 8DN belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 103-105 mph.

3. 8DN/8JP belt with secondary setup properly will allow you approximately 113-115 mph.

4. 8DN belt with both primary and secondary setup to match the belt properly will allow you approximately 120-121 mph.

The stock secondary setup with the 8JP belt will stop your belt approximately 3/8" to 1/2" below the top of the primary clutch due to two reasons, the stock secondary will stop shifting at that point and this stops the belt from going any higher in the primary as well.

Now if you install an 8DN belt you can get the belt to approximately 5/16" from the top of the primary and gain some top speed in the correct conditions.

Stock secondary clutch travel is approximately 0.870" and after setting up the secondary properly you can achieve just slightly over 1" of travel (1.008").

Stock primary clutch travel is approximately 1.104" of travel and after setting up the primary properly you can achieve 1.317" of travel and get the belt all the way to the top of the primary clutch, leaving no clutch face surface unused, in the correct conditions.

This is an informational post from Ulmer Racing, call us if you have questions, I do not want to offend or argue with anyone, as it will not help anyone in the end, and there is 100 different ways to alter clutching via the clutch arms, springs, helix, etc, but when the belt is limiting the shift ratio, changing those items will only do so much.

We will offer primary & secondary machining/setup process for those that are interested. You can purchase a clutch kit to match it or if you already have a Ulmer Racing clutch kit I will modify it to work properly as well. If you want to continue to use your own clutching, but want the clutches machined properly with some advice on how to setup your helix/spring I can do that as well.

Phone: 605-387-2833

Email: Srxspec@Gwtc.net

Just curious when it says "clutches setup properly" are you just referring to proper clutch parts being used or are you referring to the clutches having some machine work done to them? I like a lot of others in sure are seeing some of the primary face not being used which in turn I'm sure is not fully shifting the secondary. I guess I'm just curious if both your option 3 and 4 are simply just swapping out clutch components or if you are machining the clutches. Good to know that it's normal for the clutches to be this way but also it's better yet that there is more performance left in them. Going with a turbo over the summer so I'm sure clutching will be much different from compared to the stock sled and more power at hand but either way if there is more grunt and top end left in the clutches it should be used. Just curious what exactly is being changed
 
Studroes144 said:
Srxspec said:
I will share what I have tested and what I have found using the RTX/LTX models as a testing reference.

1. 8JP belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 93-95 mph.

2. 8DN belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 103-105 mph.

3. 8DN/8JP belt with secondary setup properly will allow you approximately 113-115 mph.

4. 8DN belt with both primary and secondary setup to match the belt properly will allow you approximately 120-121 mph.

The stock secondary setup with the 8JP belt will stop your belt approximately 3/8" to 1/2" below the top of the primary clutch due to two reasons, the stock secondary will stop shifting at that point and this stops the belt from going any higher in the primary as well.

Now if you install an 8DN belt you can get the belt to approximately 5/16" from the top of the primary and gain some top speed in the correct conditions.

Stock secondary clutch travel is approximately 0.870" and after setting up the secondary properly you can achieve just slightly over 1" of travel (1.008").

Stock primary clutch travel is approximately 1.104" of travel and after setting up the primary properly you can achieve 1.317" of travel and get the belt all the way to the top of the primary clutch, leaving no clutch face surface unused, in the correct conditions.

This is an informational post from Ulmer Racing, call us if you have questions, I do not want to offend or argue with anyone, as it will not help anyone in the end, and there is 100 different ways to alter clutching via the clutch arms, springs, helix, etc, but when the belt is limiting the shift ratio, changing those items will only do so much.

We will offer primary & secondary machining/setup process for those that are interested. You can purchase a clutch kit to match it or if you already have a Ulmer Racing clutch kit I will modify it to work properly as well. If you want to continue to use your own clutching, but want the clutches machined properly with some advice on how to setup your helix/spring I can do that as well.

Phone: 605-387-2833

Email: Srxspec@Gwtc.net

Just curious when it says "clutches setup properly" are you just referring to proper clutch parts being used or are you referring to the clutches having some machine work done to them? I like a lot of others in sure are seeing some of the primary face not being used which in turn I'm sure is not fully shifting the secondary. I guess I'm just curious if both your option 3 and 4 are simply just swapping out clutch components or if you are machining the clutches. Good to know that it's normal for the clutches to be this way but also it's better yet that there is more performance left in them. Going with a turbo over the summer so I'm sure clutching will be much different from compared to the stock sled and more power at hand but either way if there is more grunt and top end left in the clutches it should be used. Just curious what exactly is being changed

The stock helix and spring will stop the secondary clutch from shifting so far. A little machining to the helix (or go to a aftermarket helix) and you can get more shift out, a different secondary spring will keep it shifting out as well. A little machining on the secondary will get you all the way to the bottom of the secondary and maintain belt grab.

The stock primary clutch will not shift the belt all the way up the sheave, it must be machined to do this.

The FX Nytro clutches shifted no different, they are all virtually the same overall components (whether it be a Apex, Vector, FX Nytro, SR Viper, etc). The ending result of putting the FX Nytro motor into the AC chassis has affected things not seen previously in the other models.
 
Allan has this figured out, I have tried changing springs and weights and secondary settings . Stock weights and springs aren't the problem as much as the fact that the secondary wont shift out. Mine stock settings I was just burning belts and wasting fuel once I tried pushing it past 8400 rpm. The motor wanted to go but the sheaves won't let it. I am sending mine in for machining and will probably be selling a spring and weights if anyone is interested
 
I think cats were having serious belt issues No? I thought too that the Yamaha would have been more desirable. I get fairly decent belt life just the clutching potential is being missed. Smart Money would have waited before throwing anything more into it
 
yamafart said:
I think cats were having serious belt issues No? I thought too that the Yamaha would have been more desirable. I get fairly decent belt life just the clutching potential is being missed. Smart Money would have waited before throwing anything more into it

That is what is ironic, my 2014 M8 clutching is perfect it is the 2014 Viper clutching that required many hours of my time.
 
yamafart said:
I think cats were having serious belt issues No? I thought too that the Yamaha would have been more desirable. I get fairly decent belt life just the clutching potential is being missed. Smart Money would have waited before throwing anything more into it

I think a lot of the belt stuff with the cats were really blown way out of whack..sure they have issues but not nearly as bad as these forums make it out to be..thing to keep in mind is that the cats are running the most impressive hp number for 800 2 stroke and obviously the turbo. More power=more wear and tear. That being said, I think the overall performance on the cat clutches (once setup properly) is very good! I dare say that the couple xf7000s I've drove this past year performed better with a clutch kit than the viper did with the clutch kit..but at the same time the clutch and belt temps were 20 degrees hotter on the cat than the viper so that will take it's toll in time
 
What I have read (on the internet so it has to be true right?) is that most of the Cat belt blowing is due to clutch AND moreso engine alignment issues.

I know enough to be dangerous, and this Team roller seems intriguing particularly the tied setup, but I have no personal experience with them.
 


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