Starter Failure

[Beenba]

Sounds like the starter is toast to be honest, unless u were not getting good contact with the plyers (when jumping it) and it was arcing out....so hard to say without being there.

Does it do the same thing (same sounds u described) whether your turning it over via the key and the plyers method? If so, then its gotta be the starter.

 

[kopenytro]

starter

So an update on this issue.
I put in a new starter, starter solenoid and starter saver (Thanks Rock) this weekend.
Second starter in a month and not the best way to spend a weekend.

Now when I turn the key from the first position to the start position, it starts turning over immediately even when the key is returned to the first position.
It will then fire and start. However, my red LED is lit so I have not fixed the problem as power is still going to the starter after the engine is running.

So here is my question,
I know I should replace the ignition switch but is it possible that when I tapped into the blue and white power lead coming out of the ignition switch for my gauges I have somehow caused the circuit to stay open after starting?
In my research this seemed to be the preferred location for an accessory power lead.

Anyone have a better acc power source to use?

Thoughts on the rest?

Thanks Guys.

Kope

 

[Beenba]

I would do a quick check on your accessory wiring just to rule it out. Disconnect all your additional wiring you've added, and see if the issue goes away.

This is good though, you have definitely found the problem....something is causing your starter to stay engaged....killing them.

When you say 1st position do you mean the ON position? I think of it like this:

OFF >>>> ON >>>>>START

I bet your additional wiring is the culprit and something is back-feeding power into the starter solenoid keeping the starter engaged..especially if you have replaced the solenoid.

Also take a look at the 4 pin connector that plugs into the starter solenoid, the wires like to corrode in there (green crap) and maybe that is arching things out.

 

[kopenytro]

starter

Thanks B,
thinking the same thing as you on the accessory wiring.
Yes, the key position is as you described.
I'll check the green cap and see what condition its in but I believe it was checked and cleaned when this happened the first time.

Any thoughts on a new accessory power lead to use in place of the ignition switch blue line currently being used?

Kope

 

[Rockmeister]

Use the Blue/Red wire.
Then change the SIG fuse to a higher value. (20A Max)
It is dangerous to use the Blue/White wire for anything other than the lights.
Think about it, why risk blowing the LIGHT fuse at night entering a dark tight turn?

This will solve a loading problem, but may not solve your possible back-feeding problem.

One way to test the switch and/or backfeed issue,
Get the Ignition switch connector so you have easy access to the connector.
Start the sled THEN unplug the ignition switch, if the sled keeps running, you have a definite backfeed issue.

Hope this helps!

(Am heading out riding, will try to post more when we get back in!)

Rock : )

 

[kopenytro]

Starter

Thanks Rock for the great advise.
I will check that and report back on the results.

This is why I love this site!

Kope

 

[kopenytro]

Starter

UPDATE:
I went through the wiring on my ignition switch were I pulled the power for my gauges.
In the process of undoing the splice my starter issue disappeared (starter saver light now goes off and the key works properly).

Now I just have to locate the new acc. power source Rock referred to and redo the splice to put this issue to bed.

On a side note while researching for this issue I read several theads about code 84.
Turns out I too had a jam nut loose on the engine side of the throttle cable.
Once tighten, the code and fast idle when the bars were turned went away also.

Hope to be out on the snow this weekend.

Kope