Starter Replacement

[boritzer1234]

Well I think I get to deal with the replacement of a starter. I was riding the first time this year, shut the sled off and went to start it and all I get is clicking and the fuel pump turns on and so does the dash. It is not a relay as I replaced it in my trouble shooting process and we have current going to the starter. I tried to jump the starter and it will not fire. My question is, I have the starter un-bolted from the motor. I have done some research and was told that I can remove the motor mount bolts on the front and pry to tilt the motor to get the starter to slip out. I have done all of this and have moved the motor about a half inch but need another half to a full inch. Anyone have any advice on removing this starter?

 

[sxrviper]

I have done a starter and i took the sub frame off and then i tilted motor ahead....lots of romm to work after that.

 

[TOMBOB]

starter removal

removed the subframe-----??? sorry what is a subframe paid nelson's $1000. replace starter

tombob

 

[Mazz]

Subframe, the entire front end ofthe sled, the black tubing structure that everything bolts to ie a arms, shocks, bumper, ect. It's really not that bad of a job and it will give you tons of space to work on the starter. Pull your side panels off and you can see where the subframe bolts to the aluminum plates on both side so you can get an idea of what has to happen.

 

[grizztracks]

Subframe removal

 

[TOMBOB]

reoval subframe

grizz-----how is different than a vector, or that a major job.

 

[Dimebag]

No need to remove the subframe on the nytro.. Just remove some of the bolts, so that youre able to flex the subframe away from the motor, letting the starter to clear.

 

[boritzer1234]

No need to remove the subframe on the nytro.. Just remove some of the bolts, so that youre able to flex the subframe away from the motor, letting the starter to clear.

Which bolts are you referring to? I have remove both front motor mount bolts and that wont give me enough flex. I need about 1/2 in. - 1 in.

 

[Dimebag]

Remove every bolt except two of the upper ones (one on each side).

You should be able to flex the subframe away from the motor, allowing the starter to clear between the cooler and the subframe.

 

[Mazz]

I believe Dimebag is referring to the bolts holding the subframe to the rest of the machine, not the motor mount bolts themselves.

 

[Dimebag]

You are correct

 

[boritzer1234]

Now that makes total sense. I will be trying this in the morning!

 

[Off Trail Mike]

You are correct

Dimebag, doing a starter replacement right now so just a few questions.

1. Are you removing any of the motor mounts (front/back) or just the subframe bolts (except top two)?

2. Any other junk that needs removal (steering/headlight/air filter)?

You can appreciate, don't want to rip the sled apart for no reason.

If I am forgetting anything, would appreciate any help. Can PM me if you need to.

Thanks Bud,

OTM

 

[Off Trail Mike]

Subframe unbolted and we got about an inch with the lower subframe bolts, but not enough.

OTM

 

[Off Trail Mike]

So....progress,

We removed:
1. Lower side panels and bottom skid (LOL) plate.
2. Steering Post, Air Box, and associated junk
3. front motor mounts (left the rear ones in place).
4. subframe unbolted except for top bolt on each side

- Tipped the sled up on its side putting a block below the running boards to support weight of sled.
- Used a 3/4" x 2" hardwood floor board to "gently" pry between the the motor and heat exchanger
- Had to remove the oil filter to remove starter...no way around it.

And out popped starter....

Also took apart starter, and it was worn out brushes ($50), not $400 for starter. Everything else looked good.

Sled had 25,000Km's on that's not bad for a starter on a Li-Ion Battery.

Even though we unbolted subframe, not sure if we needed to the way we did it, but maybe Dimebag can chime in on that.

OTM