4strokes are better than2
Expert
not sure how your c to c could be out it is near impossible to change that on a four stroke what is your measurment
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
thanks I will give mpi a call and speak with them again hopefully I can get someone more helpful.
Tom at hartman never did suggest changing the primary. I am thinking of a team roller but that will not solve the slipping of the primary. I have looked at and it appears to be slipping on the primary not the secondary. the black marks are at wide open throttle. Makes sense because I do not have a rivet in the tip of the weight. I know Tom said that he likes to run 14.5 mm rollers but he did not send them with his clutch kit. I think he was supprised when I told him that there were 16mm rollers in it.
So what I have learned so far is that the stiffer priamry and secondary spring has definately helped
I do think the carlile belt is better as far as slipping goes.
The smaller the roller the more force, lower engagement though. The more total force of the spring= more force and the heavier the rivet/weight = more force so there must be a compromise.
14.5 mm roller stock weight and try 10.3 steel rivets in both holes I like the multiangle helix and the secondary spring
Tom at hartman never did suggest changing the primary. I am thinking of a team roller but that will not solve the slipping of the primary. I have looked at and it appears to be slipping on the primary not the secondary. the black marks are at wide open throttle. Makes sense because I do not have a rivet in the tip of the weight. I know Tom said that he likes to run 14.5 mm rollers but he did not send them with his clutch kit. I think he was supprised when I told him that there were 16mm rollers in it.
So what I have learned so far is that the stiffer priamry and secondary spring has definately helped
I do think the carlile belt is better as far as slipping goes.
The smaller the roller the more force, lower engagement though. The more total force of the spring= more force and the heavier the rivet/weight = more force so there must be a compromise.
14.5 mm roller stock weight and try 10.3 steel rivets in both holes I like the multiangle helix and the secondary spring
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have not measured it but the new 8dn belt I just ran just smoked on the shaft of the primary and squealed like a stuck pig!!! I will have to go measure it but the Carlile belt is longer and does not squeal and rides in the secondary correctly as did the yamaha belt
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I will admit I am very hard on my machine and I do not think that I am asking to much. I do not ride trails I like powder and making my own including boondocking through tress most people could not imagine. The best snow is in the trees always deep and shielded from the wind!!!
When I take my vector out to wyoming I keep the 14.5 roller's in mine.
alaskanbowtie
Expert
HANG IN THERE
well I think for most part , you should have gone with an Apex , considering your riding preference but the Vector is a beast of a little engine! I would go with the smaller rollers and counter the lower rpm's there rpm effects with another adjustment.
I'm know clutch guru by any means but had some of the similar issue's with my mildly modded MM (130 h.p.) and it ALWAYS squeeled! Kind of a trade mark on Yammi's from what all my friends who've owned them say. This being said doesn't make it right, the yamaha belt is a hardeer belt than any MAX belt and yes a 1/4" shorter . The theory is the Max belt will help you achieve a complete shift, being longer , giving you more top end..... If I remember right? You don't want to go back to a stinkin, Doo, once you've got the Vector ironed out you should be quite happy. UNLESS your expecting more from it then it can give...... just a thought. Hang in there we need more 4 strokers in the state
well I think for most part , you should have gone with an Apex , considering your riding preference but the Vector is a beast of a little engine! I would go with the smaller rollers and counter the lower rpm's there rpm effects with another adjustment.
I'm know clutch guru by any means but had some of the similar issue's with my mildly modded MM (130 h.p.) and it ALWAYS squeeled! Kind of a trade mark on Yammi's from what all my friends who've owned them say. This being said doesn't make it right, the yamaha belt is a hardeer belt than any MAX belt and yes a 1/4" shorter . The theory is the Max belt will help you achieve a complete shift, being longer , giving you more top end..... If I remember right? You don't want to go back to a stinkin, Doo, once you've got the Vector ironed out you should be quite happy. UNLESS your expecting more from it then it can give...... just a thought. Hang in there we need more 4 strokers in the state
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
No I am not going to a doo.
an apex is too long for me I am not a hill climber
I am powder busting boon docker a 144 would be long enough but the 151 is nice.
I am waiting for the 2 cylinder four stroke with 120hp. they are close just make a 900 2 cylinder
an apex is too long for me I am not a hill climber
I am powder busting boon docker a 144 would be long enough but the 151 is nice.
I am waiting for the 2 cylinder four stroke with 120hp. they are close just make a 900 2 cylinder
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I do want to make it lighter but I do not want to spend a fortune.
How hard is it to install a m7 skid? or is a holz skid better and does anyone know a link?
How hard is it to install a m7 skid? or is a holz skid better and does anyone know a link?
alaskanbowtie
Expert
There are lots of topics related to the switch and it does save some weight , do a search and you'll find everything you want to know and then some!
4strokes are better than2
Expert
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Talked to hartman today and all he could really tell me is that the yamaha clutch is known to get hot and that it is normal.
I do not agree with that or I am happy with that.
I think it is time to sell it and buy an apex!!!
No I am on a budget can not afford one of those.
I am getting 14.5 mm rollers a 20 tooth top gear
a different helix. like a 46 40. going to change the weight to a 10.3 rivet in the outer. My goal is to get to 9000 rpms at 1000 ft elev.
I am also going to get some ofthe slp prefilter fabric and make some mods to my cover to allow cooling to the clutches.
who is running a roller clutch? Team or Mpi's mod
I do not agree with that or I am happy with that.
I think it is time to sell it and buy an apex!!!
No I am on a budget can not afford one of those.
I am getting 14.5 mm rollers a 20 tooth top gear
a different helix. like a 46 40. going to change the weight to a 10.3 rivet in the outer. My goal is to get to 9000 rpms at 1000 ft elev.
I am also going to get some ofthe slp prefilter fabric and make some mods to my cover to allow cooling to the clutches.
who is running a roller clutch? Team or Mpi's mod
4strokes are better than2
Expert
i would not agree with that at all my tvec with the turbo on that side gets warm but not the prob you are haveing.i hate to say this but you need to check all that could be wrong this isnt just a set up issue if you had probs with stock setting something is out of wack.my freinds moun max did the same thing a few years ago would go through a belt a trip & it ended up being a alingment prob 
alaskanbowtie
Expert
Did you ever figure it out ?
I'm also considering buying an RS Vector Mnt. and having a 156x16" track put on it with a full excell exhaust , Mnt. mod seat etc. etc. , did you ever figure out the deal with your clutching heat and problems ? Did you go to the bigger rolers, how about consider going to 20/40 gearing for a bit more poop ?
I'm also considering buying an RS Vector Mnt. and having a 156x16" track put on it with a full excell exhaust , Mnt. mod seat etc. etc. , did you ever figure out the deal with your clutching heat and problems ? Did you go to the bigger rolers, how about consider going to 20/40 gearing for a bit more poop ?
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have a team roller on my RX1 . works very well.
First I would go to 20 40 gearing and use the Yamaha belt it is shorter and when you set up the rear clutch spacing with the 3 bolts properly it will not squeal. This will allow you to start in low gear, to use a long belt is like starting in second gear. 14.5 mm rollers are the way to go I use Yamaha short springs for a low engagement and weights with a aggressive shift curve. Improves performance a lot!!!!!! Make sure the rear clutch has some space to float , they don't like to be to tight.
I haven't clutched a vector yet but my rx1 clutches never get hot just hand warm. I change the belt once a year if I need to or not and use last years as a spare, that is about 3000 miles a belt. I found that on the vector demos people often burn the belt when they get stuck, it engages very hard and once you have a flat-spot or too on the belt its only a matter of time .If you use lighter weights and short springs you also get rid of that stupid engine braking.
I hope that helps. If you ever in Whitehorse let me know we can have a look at here for a second opinion.
Cheers.....
First I would go to 20 40 gearing and use the Yamaha belt it is shorter and when you set up the rear clutch spacing with the 3 bolts properly it will not squeal. This will allow you to start in low gear, to use a long belt is like starting in second gear. 14.5 mm rollers are the way to go I use Yamaha short springs for a low engagement and weights with a aggressive shift curve. Improves performance a lot!!!!!! Make sure the rear clutch has some space to float , they don't like to be to tight.
I haven't clutched a vector yet but my rx1 clutches never get hot just hand warm. I change the belt once a year if I need to or not and use last years as a spare, that is about 3000 miles a belt. I found that on the vector demos people often burn the belt when they get stuck, it engages very hard and once you have a flat-spot or too on the belt its only a matter of time .If you use lighter weights and short springs you also get rid of that stupid engine braking.
I hope that helps. If you ever in Whitehorse let me know we can have a look at here for a second opinion.
Cheers.....
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I found out why The Yammi belt does not work it is indeed to tight there are no screws in the back. I assumed when the dealer said there was nothing wrong with the alignment or the deflection I figure they were there. But even so I so not think the belt is riding to high via what specs say and that was on a new belt. I am still running the carlile belt.
I agree with what you are saying about starting in 2nd I can definatly tell when I do try the yamaha belt. I will the dealer fix the belt deflection when he does the Jackshaft recall. and I will try another belt.
Thank you for the input.
I agree with what you are saying about starting in 2nd I can definatly tell when I do try the yamaha belt. I will the dealer fix the belt deflection when he does the Jackshaft recall. and I will try another belt.
Thank you for the input.
