Stretching a 08 Nytro RTX

Muffin Works can provide you with the rail extensions. We have them available in 136 and 144 lengths ... in straight form, or with a 6 deg tipped up design. Because we do our own design and fabrication work, we can control our costs and pass that savings on to the consumer. We have been a TY sponsor since 2006, and if you search around here, you'll find we have a great reputation and track record.
 
phazer phreak said:
Dimebag and JCLG, those babes are sexy! You guys have been very helpful.

I'm having a difficult time deciding between the 144 extensions and tip up rails from OFT which would make it handle nice on the trail and the straight extensions and Slide Back Kit from Tom Hartman which would make it handle better in the deep. Evidently Tom doesn't offer tip up rails. Any input on this would be helpful! Thanks.

Hey phazer phreak,

I see that you're from Minneapolis. Our shop is located in Golden Valley and if you'd like to stop by and take a little tour ( must be 21 to open the refrigerator ) just let me know. ;)!

PM me and we can set something up.

Scott
 
I too am considering streeching my RTX to 136"...... the question is, what are guys doing about:

a) Gearing: 75% on trail - 25% boondocking

b) Suspension: I had HighGear do a complete revalve last fall will the longer track change all of this?

Thanks for considering my questions.....
 
I can recommend stretching your FX Nytro to 136". I am close to 50/50 between rough trail riding and freeriding and I have found a long list of advantages and zero drawbacks compared to 121". I used OFTs kicked-up rail extensions, a Hartman tunnel extension, a Back Country 136"x1.75" track together with loads of other modifications. My gearing is currently 20/40 and I would never consider anything higher as long as I am into the freeriding. My suspension is currently Ohlins shocks all around (with new damping specs every week, just for fun...) and one step stiffer springs in the rear. Works awesome and scares the shite out of the Bombardier snocross wannabees around here. You can find pictures in the Nytro photo thread.
 
Atalo,

Thanks for your comments......

Regarding the track, I live ride in the North East (USA) which means the potential for hard snow trail days so I am thinking no more than an 1.5" track lug. Was thinking of the RipSaw in a 136" x 1.5". ANy comments or recommendations otherwise?

I agree, if I do this it will be with the OFT parts......

Gearing: is the stock 19 x 41? Either way, can I change the top gear only and still achive the desired result?

Trygve
 
TheGreatPumkin said:
Atalo,

Thanks for your comments......

Regarding the track, I live ride in the North East (USA) which means the potential for hard snow trail days so I am thinking no more than an 1.5" track lug. Was thinking of the RipSaw in a 136" x 1.5". ANy comments or recommendations otherwise?

I agree, if I do this it will be with the OFT parts......

Gearing: is the stock 19 x 41? Either way, can I change the top gear only and still achive the desired result?

Trygve

If you like studs, you can't stud the 1.5" track. You could get a 1.375" track and put 1.450 studs in it though.

Stock top gear is 21 teeth, I think the bottom is 41, but I'm not sure. You could just drop 1 gear up top, but I ran my 136 with factory gearing and it was fine.
 
Stock RTX gearing is 21/39. If you are going to spend a lot of time off trail, I would recommend 20/40 - assuming you can afford the quite expensive bottom gear. Otherwise I would just go for 20/39. 19/39 is also possible, but personally I am not a fan of the tight chain radius created by this gear. Anyway, all of these can be used with the stock chain. Also, consider that clutch tuning might be necessary after changing the final ratio.

Regarding tracks - according to my experience - the Back Country 1.75" does not cause more hyfax wear or cooling issues than the Challenger or Intense 1.5", for instance. However, I have got zero experience of the higher RipSaw tracks. Like already mentioned, if you are going to spend a lot of time on hard trails, studs are not a bad idea.
 
Thank you both for the insight:

Gearing: Sounds like I will go with the 20 top gear....

Track: Can I not fit a 1.5" track if I stud it? What abou the new "IceRipper" which is a Ropsaw with factory installed studs in the paddles?
 
you don't want to run a stud longer than 1.5"...

If you switched your drivers to 8 tooth drivers then it would be alright to run a 1.600 stud or something similar. You wouldn't have to drop a gear then either.

Does the sled have extrovert drivers?
 
No extrovrts yet..... if I do this I know they will be required...... are you saying an 8 tooth vs. 9 would allow a studded 1.5? Or the Ice Ripper in 1.5"?

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I have used a 19 gear for a season now and loves it. Top speed at 150 km/h and stock clutching. Feels much smoother in the tricky forest
 
I've never done it, but 8 tooth drivers should give you enough room for a studded 1.5" track. After all, there technically is enough room for 2" lugs between the stock drivers and the front heat exchanger...but its a little too close to run such long studs. It is not easy to replace that front heat exchanger if you put a hole in it.

I've never seen a 1.5 ice ripper... I've only seen a 1.375 "ice Attack". There is enough room to run the 1.375 right from the factory, but it only comes in 2.86 pitch according to tracksusa.com. Unless I'm missing something.
 
Thanks for the alll of the advice and tips. I ended up finding an affordable XTX with a 1.75 track and mountain skis.
 


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