Stripped Chaincase screw, bad leak

B

Beauryan Best

Extreme
Joined
Feb 16, 2021
Messages
50
Reaction score
17
Points
38
Location
Nome, AK
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2014 SR Viper
So... Sled was a trade, just got it running with new ECU.
Finding lots of gremlins.
This scew in particular. Couldnt get a left hand extractor in at proper angle and made it way worse... What do I do, how do I extract this screw without completely drilling off the head? A carbide extractor tip broke into the screw, fml... Cant drill it anyways lol. Need a drop of acid to get that out.
The other purple arrow; broken tab, screw overtoraued, magnesium unweldable, and likely wont seal... But, it is a top mount screw. WWJD?
Leaks worse than a Harley so I Have the yamaha oil glue and gasket in route and I might as well inspect everything while apart.
Same goes for the oil resivoir.
Any suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • 20210216_115524~2.jpg
    20210216_115524~2.jpg
    67 KB · Views: 196
Last edited:
I had one of the lower ones break and had to take the inner case off and was able to get it out from the back...a lot of work but I got it...threw the rest of the torx away and put hex heads in.
 
I was looking at that, tapping it from the back, and do-able, but I'd need to get a R/H extractor set I think...
And because it is a top screw, its accessable from the back, but I'd have to take the whole case off or take off the gas tank to make do-able space.
 
And yah... Screw torx.
If I take off the whole case I'm gonna helicoil everything for safety and get better hardware. What did you replace with?
 
Hillman full thread metric bolts that I got at Canadian Tire...can’t remember size.
 
Weld a nut on the screw head
Needle nose vise grips with jaw tips ground for clearance
Use Dremel to grind head off or at least piece of easy out then drill head off
 
Dremel a straight line on the head and extract with a flat screwdriver. If you fail, you can fall back to welding a nut on it or otherwise.
 
If you use a pencil torch that screw will come right out with a good needle nose vice grip or even a small chisel lightly tapping on side of screw head. Heat though. They are all Loctited or should be.
 
cannondale27 said:
If you use a pencil torch that screw will come right out with a good needle nose vice grip or even a small chisel lightly tapping on side of screw head. Heat though. They are all Loctited or should be.
Click to expand...
Exactly. These bolts are not tightened very tight. It's the thread locker that Yamaha uses that puts up a high resistance. Heating makes a huge difference.
 
For the broken tab on the oil tank, try one of those Chevy, Ford, not sure which engine, but the valve cover washers. I don't know the exact name of them but there not round like a normal washer, they kinda look like a boomerang.
As for the Torx bolt, like said above, cut a notch or weld a bolt.
 
Pstn head said:
For the broken tab on the oil tank, try one of those Chevy, Ford, not sure which engine, but the valve cover washers. I don't know the exact name of them but there not round like a normal washer, they kinda look like a boomerang.
As for the Torx bolt, like said above, cut a notch or weld a bolt.
Click to expand...

Thanks, waiting for parts and I was just thinking about that broken tab. Used to work at our Napa and didnt think about that washer so I appreciate it.
The torx bit is going to be my biggest headache for sure though... (Highly doubtful) are the outter tabs threaded? Thinking I might cut the F'd up bolt head off and pull the case off from there, expose whatever is left of threads, and with all the open space maybe give me a better chance to thread out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top