Studding an XTX

[Daranello]

Stud Co over recomend cause the wanna sell studs. I run 114 studs and she hooks up. Don't believe me line up and watch me fly by. Over studded equals POOR top end

 

[**sj**]

first off....lets get a few things straight....scratch lines are important ...but can be accomplished without studding in the center...in fact the reason for putting the most studs closest to the rail is the closer to the rail the more traction there is period....studding in the centermost of the center belt is a waste and asking for trouble...you can hit on many of the fourstrokes due to track balloon ...

dont get me started on woody's...I think everything they do is marketing and like said to sell quantity...and I think their stud design sucks...and I can explain why later...

as to running a boosted sled and needing help....well first off ....if you want to run angled backers....they make them...the dome of the backer is punched to make the stud pitch to the rear...an artificial tilt....this is done obviously for more penetration...and to prevent the stud from folding over...but with this soft durometer of track...expect foldover or pull throughs....other trade offs are a head of stud tilted as well....wheel failures and possibly even the track as this isnt the right track to be using this technique on...

a better oprion would be a hooker style backer but again...if boost and traction are key...Id personally go with a more durable track (harder durometer) with a shorter lug allowing a shorter stud with the same aggressive penetration youre after....you'll sve weight of extra rotating mass and hookup and last longer...

fyi they make the hooker backers in singleas and doubles aluminum and poly...in fact Ive got some poly fast trac hookers laying around...

 

[SledFreak]

first off....lets get a few things straight....scratch lines are important ...but can be accomplished without studding in the center...in fact the reason for putting the most studs closest to the rail is the closer to the rail the more traction there is period....studding in the centermost of the center belt is a waste and asking for trouble...you can hit on many of the fourstrokes due to track balloon ...

dont get me started on woody's...I think everything they do is marketing and like said to sell quantity...and I think their stud design sucks...and I can explain why later...

as to running a boosted sled and needing help....well first off ....if you want to run angled backers....they make them...the dome of the backer is punched to make the stud pitch to the rear...an artificial tilt....this is done obviously for more penetration...and to prevent the stud from folding over...but with this soft durometer of track...expect foldover or pull throughs....other trade offs are a head of stud tilted as well....wheel failures and possibly even the track as this isnt the right track to be using this technique on...

a better oprion would be a hooker style backer but again...if boost and traction are key...Id personally go with a more durable track (harder durometer) with a shorter lug allowing a shorter stud with the same aggressive penetration youre after....you'll sve weight of extra rotating mass and hookup and last longer...

fyi they make the hooker backers in singleas and doubles aluminum and poly...in fact Ive got some poly fast trac hookers laying around...

Well said sj..

 

[crippledncrazy]

I though I had the right plan for my stud pattern? I dont have the money right now for a new track and studs. i would love to have a one inch track but the money I have put into my sled I could have bought another new xtx. So what recommendations does every one have for my stud pattern? More than likely I will go with 171 down the middle and if thats not enough which I dont think it will be I will put some on the outside giving me 228. Im open for suggestions

 

[SledFreak]

I would think Ulmer could help you with that or the guys on the Turbo/Supercharger forum could assist you better having much more knowlegable when utilizing that much power. IMO on a 121" you would need a min of 192 and for a 144", you would need the equivilant.

 

[sleddingfarmer]

I've always had really good luck with woodys and I like them, so until that changes I'll just stick with what works for me. and marketing? whats marketing?haha. Now track ballooning... I never gave that much of a thought, but since room is tight in the nytro, and my new studs will be a little longer I might considering not putting studs down the dead center.

But to say that studding down the center of the middle of the track is a waste? If the stud is trenching in ice almost as deep as the studs next to the rail I hardly consider it a waste. Not as good as right next to the rail, but far from a waste.

 

[**sj**]

studding in the middle 2-3" of the belt is an absolute waste...weak area and no traction benefit...I'd take the outside before...and the woodys shoulder prevents proper capture of the softer rubber tracks...fast trac designs are much better...
crippledcrazy...if you want a detailed opinion p.m. me..