Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Hey everyone
I searched all afternoon on this subject and have came to a few conclusions.
First of all, Preferably, Id like to stud down the center using Woodys 162 stud pattern for the 136" track which utilizes both double backer plates and the singles (dar6ren uses this pattern). By looking at other posts, it seems sticking with the 1.325" woodys stud height is preferred over the larger penetration 1.450" stud, so im sure of the stud choice.
Only problem is that there seems to be a clearance problem with running these studs which include the studs contacting the exhaust cover when the suspension moves through its travel, and scratching on the front heat exchanger. Possible remedies seem to be making the tunnel protectors taller by adding a strip to them or something. Im a little unclear of that.
Also, from viewing some of these, it seems that it is best to leave the track preety tight to keep the expansion at high speeds to a minimum and try to prevent damaging anything, but I wanted to cut all the windows from the track, then clip them, then run skidoo 9 tooth extroverts, while leaving the track slack enough to easily roll on snow, which was a whole point in the extroverts. There was an excerpt from Snowtech ealier that stated that if you slacken your track, you can get a few more track hp, but you need to run extroverts.
Here are some links to earlier posts made.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... hlight=162
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... hlight=162
Preety much im wondering what I have to modify to run these studs.
Anyone have any comments?
Thanks in advance!
I searched all afternoon on this subject and have came to a few conclusions.
First of all, Preferably, Id like to stud down the center using Woodys 162 stud pattern for the 136" track which utilizes both double backer plates and the singles (dar6ren uses this pattern). By looking at other posts, it seems sticking with the 1.325" woodys stud height is preferred over the larger penetration 1.450" stud, so im sure of the stud choice.
Only problem is that there seems to be a clearance problem with running these studs which include the studs contacting the exhaust cover when the suspension moves through its travel, and scratching on the front heat exchanger. Possible remedies seem to be making the tunnel protectors taller by adding a strip to them or something. Im a little unclear of that.
Also, from viewing some of these, it seems that it is best to leave the track preety tight to keep the expansion at high speeds to a minimum and try to prevent damaging anything, but I wanted to cut all the windows from the track, then clip them, then run skidoo 9 tooth extroverts, while leaving the track slack enough to easily roll on snow, which was a whole point in the extroverts. There was an excerpt from Snowtech ealier that stated that if you slacken your track, you can get a few more track hp, but you need to run extroverts.
Here are some links to earlier posts made.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... hlight=162
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... hlight=162
Preety much im wondering what I have to modify to run these studs.
Anyone have any comments?
Thanks in advance!
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
You can run 1.325 or 1.375 studs with no problem..ive had both..
avoid running them right down the center so they wont come in contact with the shock..
avoid running them right down the center so they wont come in contact with the shock..
Mighty
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I ran 1,325's in my Attak with zero issues.
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What did you guys do for tunnel protectors? Is there already some on the Attak or do you have to go buy some, and which ones and did you have to modify them at all?
Ya, I was just going to use Woodys template and that keeps studs away from the center most part of the track to avoid that shock rubbing thing. I saw pictures of that and looked at it in person and its kind of weird how part of the track is so close to coming into contact with the suspension or actually touching it.
Thanks for the responses so far guys. But im sure everyone here doesnt mind tlaking about sleds, especially in the middle of July!
Ya, I was just going to use Woodys template and that keeps studs away from the center most part of the track to avoid that shock rubbing thing. I saw pictures of that and looked at it in person and its kind of weird how part of the track is so close to coming into contact with the suspension or actually touching it.
Thanks for the responses so far guys. But im sure everyone here doesnt mind tlaking about sleds, especially in the middle of July!
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
didnt have to do anything with the tunnel protectors..
You only need more if you go over 1.40
You only need more if you go over 1.40
Swiss Sledder
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My only feedback is that I didn't stud my Attak and I am happy with the results after 2750 miles last season. I have always put studs on my 121" track sleds but wanted to try the 136" without studs. I am still comfortable on going studless on the longer track sleds. Just my
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
We get alot of icy conditions, especially lately when all the snow thaws, then freezes back up leaving everything icy and hard. I went a few years on my original track without studs, then went to the studs and it suited my riding a million times better then without the studs. Then with the ripsaw, went half a season without studs and ended up tipping it on its side on a glare piece of ice on a lake. Then last season I put the studs in. So studs are a must.
Does the Attak come stock with tunnel protectors or do you have to go out and buy them. Im just wondering this as the exhaust runs in the tunnel and shoudnt there be some protection? Sorry for all the questions guys!
Does the Attak come stock with tunnel protectors or do you have to go out and buy them. Im just wondering this as the exhaust runs in the tunnel and shoudnt there be some protection? Sorry for all the questions guys!
bgbytoys
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i ran the new camoplast ice ripper track last year and was very pleased with it. previous i have always studded. i wanted to get away from all the extra weight and the bending and breaking of studs. the longer the stud the easier they are to damage. if you swap your track befire it is used it is a very comparable price.
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
So does the Attak come stock with Tunnel protectors and are these the ones you guys are using?
If it doesnt come stock with them, which ones are you using?
If it doesnt come stock with them, which ones are you using?
Apex and Attak both come with tunnel protectors installed. No problems with studs less than 1.375".
Bodacious
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I ran 1.40" with the OEM protectors, 3200 miles and no problems.
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
How loose do you guys run your track at?
Iv heard of some cases where if the track is on the loose side, it will contact the top of the tunnel in some spots, including the exhaust guard and front heat exchanger.
Iv heard of some cases where if the track is on the loose side, it will contact the top of the tunnel in some spots, including the exhaust guard and front heat exchanger.
Bodacious
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I ran mine as loose as I could without ratcheting...which isn't "loose" by anymeans. But not a scratch anywhere!
**sj**
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Bodacious said:I ran 1.40" with the OEM protectors, 3200 miles and no problems.
Hey..
which studs did you run that were 1.40's?
I'm looking at a stud which is 1.75 overall ...I think that would yield 1.45...not sure..
**sj**
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see my post in the apex forum
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