CaptCaper
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Just use Woody's gold diggers of 1.325 and they're pattern for a few studs.. with no cooler you'll be fine. Use they're application guide and choose the lesser aggressive suggestions. They'll be great. The sled being heavy and long track with the aggressive Ripsaw I bites very nice as is and with a few studs even better.The sled won't be driven that hard otherwise mw and my 16 year old son will have an issue...lol
I bought a box of igrip studs but with 9000kms on the track then ends of the lugs are more chisel shaped so I'm not sure they will work.
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What kind of track tension with 108 studs?
MikeyB56
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CaptCaper - do you have pictures of your setup. I am in the process of doing studs on an 07 Attak GT with the added rear cooler.
CaptCaper
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Which setup? protectors? studs? for studs I used Woody's recommended Gold diggers in 1.325's in their recommended patterns. One Attak and one Vector LTX I did had the 162 Stud pattern from Woody's.. The others were the 108... their Long track pattern guide has the patterns for the 136 in track in 108 144 162. They recommend 162 now only don't know why. Years ago it was "trail riding " aggressive etc. choices.. the 162 worked flawlessly for 10,000 miles on my first attak.. no issues..
You will need 1 1/2 in clearances over that cooler tapering down to 0 just behind the upper wheels .. I used Aluminum tube from Home depot cut on a band saw with skip tooth 6 teeth per inch. Old hy fax for the extra clearance. Bolted the front up thru OEM protector. Bolted back to rear .. I installed 3 coolers on Attaks and 4 protectors (wifes 2010 LTX) over coolers this way with no issues in 25 k miles now.
Lot's of pic's here if you search .. everytime I did the protection I did it different.. just the way it went.. not hard to do.. just do it.
You will need 1 1/2 in clearances over that cooler tapering down to 0 just behind the upper wheels .. I used Aluminum tube from Home depot cut on a band saw with skip tooth 6 teeth per inch. Old hy fax for the extra clearance. Bolted the front up thru OEM protector. Bolted back to rear .. I installed 3 coolers on Attaks and 4 protectors (wifes 2010 LTX) over coolers this way with no issues in 25 k miles now.
Lot's of pic's here if you search .. everytime I did the protection I did it different.. just the way it went.. not hard to do.. just do it.
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MikeyB56
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thanks CaptCaper thats exactly what I am looking for. I am going to use the existing tunnel protectors and add the hyrax as recommended. Planning on going with 108 and not touching the outside of the track. Did you have any issues with rubbing after that or any issues with it rubbing on the front cooler?
CaptCaper
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No issues with rubbing any where... I put on 9950 miles on my first Attak with them ... 8125 miles on the second one .. 6500 miles on the wifes Vector..and now 2700 miles with my new Attak ..all 3.125 Gold Diggers with Woody's patterns.
Just make sure however you add clearance you have at least 1 1/2 inches over the cooler area or you'll scrape it. This is with using 3.125 Gold Diggers. Either double or single backers work fine. Use Woody's and their suggestions. You'll have to buy their pattern for long tracks so you can get a balanced 108 stud pattern. Don't make up one yourself. Torque them to 15 ft pounds. Check them after a couple of hundred miles.
In the RS Vector section there is a sticky on studding the LTX Vector which is the same as our Attaks. Lot's of guys who ran these machines have gone over to another brand or type Yamaha .. so not many posting here on it but lot's of old info hanging around.
Just make sure however you add clearance you have at least 1 1/2 inches over the cooler area or you'll scrape it. This is with using 3.125 Gold Diggers. Either double or single backers work fine. Use Woody's and their suggestions. You'll have to buy their pattern for long tracks so you can get a balanced 108 stud pattern. Don't make up one yourself. Torque them to 15 ft pounds. Check them after a couple of hundred miles.
In the RS Vector section there is a sticky on studding the LTX Vector which is the same as our Attaks. Lot's of guys who ran these machines have gone over to another brand or type Yamaha .. so not many posting here on it but lot's of old info hanging around.
MikeyB56
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What do you exactly mean by adding clearance. My stock protectors run all the way back and go over the rear cooler ( I bent them when installing and then bent back. Reinforcing them with some brackets on the side just in case). My plan was to add the hyfax like yours. Not sure why i am confused in regards to the clearance
MikeyB56
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Do you mean from the cooler to the added hyrax protection there must be at least 1.5 inches...sorry for my mental lapse right now haha
CaptCaper
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What do you exactly mean by adding clearance. My stock protectors run all the way back and go over the rear cooler ( I bent them when installing and then bent back. Reinforcing them with some brackets on the side just in case). My plan was to add the hyfax like yours. Not sure why i am confused in regards to the clearance
By clearance I'm talking about the 1 1/2 in of protection needed over the cooler. I don't know what you have now and if adding by adding old hyfax would give you the 1 1/2 in like in the photos.
In this picture I drew what I mean.
MikeyB56
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thank you!!! I will add a few pictures when I am done with the install.
steveg_nh
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I just went through this. Here’s my thread. Got a lot of great advice from the guys helping you here. Radiator vs Rear Heat Exchanger on 136" Attak
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/radiator-vs-rear-heat-exchanger-on-136-attak.149323/
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/radiator-vs-rear-heat-exchanger-on-136-attak.149323/
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