Studs make a difference with Ulmers clutch?

zeke66

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Going to put Ulmers Stage 1 clutch kit in and I was wondering if the track being studded or, not studded, makes a difference with the weights?
 
traction is the key to any sled regardless of weather it's clutched or not. If you put more power to the track you must find a way to stop it from breaking traction.
 
dirkdiggler said:
traction is the key to any sled regardless of weather it's clutched or not. If you put more power to the track you must find a way to stop it from breaking traction.

I agree, but for some reason Turks seems to make it work without studs. I guess a bigger lug is required...
 
SledFreak said:
dirkdiggler said:
traction is the key to any sled regardless of weather it's clutched or not. If you put more power to the track you must find a way to stop it from breaking traction.

I agree, but for some reason Turks seems to make it work without studs. I guess a bigger lug is required...



I did say find someway. Didn't say studs becuase your right people like Turk use a Deep lug track. ;)!
 
In speaking to Turk one of his comments (paraphrasing) is the "tractoring" away from the line...seems like he/they run differently than some of us...
 
Wouldnt clutching for deep powder be different then hardpack as far as weights are concerned?
 
For snow i set up the clutches to really load the motor hard at engagement & let rpm,s climb. This means 4kish rpm engagement & rpm,s starting real low.For studs you don,t load the motor as hard & let it free wheel a little more at engagement.
eg...on snow engaement at 4k.
rpm,s start at 8-8200 rpm & climb to 8900 rpm at full throttle.
For a picked sled higher engement & start rpm,s about 8500 & let em climb.
 


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