STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I got the gold diggers to put on my vector .. I was all excited about the new fast trac polymer backers untill I got them. When I tried tighting them the nuts just run into the plastic before the the studs get sucked into the track. Now I have to get new backers . Not sure weather to run woody steel or aluminum?how much weight does the aluminum save?
BigDog05
VIP Member
Check with Matt on the aluminum backers that he sales. I think they are Stud Boy. Very strong and aluminum.
LazyBastard said:Try this; go to home depot, buy a 1/4" ss bolt and a 1/4" galvanized bolt. See which is easier to bend.
Nickel is soft, hence SS is soft.
Stainless has more chromium, which is very hard, than nickel. go back to home depot and bend both of those bolts back the other way and tell me which one breaks I guarantee the stainless one will because it is harder.
fourndog
Pro
i am going with SS Woodys traction masters on my RTX
STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
BigDog05 said:Check with Matt on the aluminum backers that he sales. I think they are Stud Boy. Very strong and aluminum.
Is matt from the speedshop?
BigDog05
VIP Member
Yes, The Speed Shop and they are Stud boy.
Bossman
Expert
I got my studs from Matt last year and used those Stud Boy backer plates and they were very nice. Matt is a good guy to buy from, he has a lot of good insight into the product and will spend the time with you to figure out what will work best for your application.
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
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Hey lb whoever said nickel was soft,we machine nickel and inconel 718 for our jet engines here at Pratt and Whitney Aircraft and the machinability is about 14 percent compared to ss or titanium,i can attest to the fact that nickel is not soft!!
STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I will give him a call. I am not sure if you can use the gold diggers with the studboy backers ,But I will ask
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
I think that if a stud breaks....it it way better than a pull through.
I had always used ATS stainless....the ones on the outside would always break.....but never a pull through.
My last sled had Gold Diggers and 2 or 3 pull throughs.
I am going back to stainless.
I had always used ATS stainless....the ones on the outside would always break.....but never a pull through.
My last sled had Gold Diggers and 2 or 3 pull throughs.
I am going back to stainless.
BigDog05
VIP Member
I run the gold diggers with the stud boy backers and just got 96 more for the wifes 06 Vector Gt.
impalapower
TY 4 Stroke God
RTX Meirda said:I think that if a stud breaks....it it way better than a pull through.
I agree, but what causes the pull through? A stud hitting a rock and pushing the backing plate through the track and tearing it?
SmittyAllSeason
Veteran
I used the Woody's Golddigger Stainless steel studs in my 02 Viper and my 04 RX1. I found out from Woody's that they stopped making the GD Stainless steel because of the cost. They are more money than the regular Golddiggers.
The new stainless studs made by Woody's are not as nice as the old style. I found my dealer had 144 1.325" stainless Golddiggers left so I bought them for my 04 RX1.
After 2200 miles on the RX1, I have not broken any but I do have quite a few that are bent. I think the next time, I will use the longer nuts that are availble. My 02 Viper with 1.075" Stainless GD are in excellent shape yet.
The new stainless studs made by Woody's are not as nice as the old style. I found my dealer had 144 1.325" stainless Golddiggers left so I bought them for my 04 RX1.
After 2200 miles on the RX1, I have not broken any but I do have quite a few that are bent. I think the next time, I will use the longer nuts that are availble. My 02 Viper with 1.075" Stainless GD are in excellent shape yet.
TWIN TURBO
Expert
Stainless Steel Studs
Hey guys stainless steel has one small advantage they won't get all rusty
and messy looking. The problem you all had with striped threads and seizing was most likely caused by the lack of anti-seize on the threads
at time of assembly. Stainless steel bolts and stainless steel nuts MUST
be lubed or they will seize and gall under torque loads. Try anti-seize next time and they will go together nicely.
P.S. It does get messy you just can't get anti-seize off very easy!
Have a greate season.
Hey guys stainless steel has one small advantage they won't get all rusty
and messy looking. The problem you all had with striped threads and seizing was most likely caused by the lack of anti-seize on the threads
at time of assembly. Stainless steel bolts and stainless steel nuts MUST
be lubed or they will seize and gall under torque loads. Try anti-seize next time and they will go together nicely.
P.S. It does get messy you just can't get anti-seize off very easy!
Have a greate season.
impalapower
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: Stainless Steel Studs
I'm not sure why some are concerned about the looks of the stud. So they get a little rusty or corroded, its the track, not the seat. Unless we are talking show sleds, then its a different story.
I wouldn't use anti-sieze on studs. I would use red or green Loc-tite and that will give lubrication during assembly, then it will hold the two together once it dries.
TWIN TURBO said:Hey guys stainless steel has one small advantage they won't get all rusty
and messy looking. The problem you all had with striped threads and seizing was most likely caused by the lack of anti-seize on the threads
at time of assembly.
I'm not sure why some are concerned about the looks of the stud. So they get a little rusty or corroded, its the track, not the seat. Unless we are talking show sleds, then its a different story.
I wouldn't use anti-sieze on studs. I would use red or green Loc-tite and that will give lubrication during assembly, then it will hold the two together once it dries.
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