yamadoo
Yamadoo is a snowmobile ' aholic'.
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2003
- Messages
- 3,645
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 15 Viper STX DX red/white- GPS and KING AIR suspension 4kmiles
13 Apex XTX 45 anniversary RED/WHITE/BLACK 3K miles
10 Vector LTX Blue 9kmiles
11 Venture GT 4k miles
86 SnoScoot(2) for grand kids
I agree with apexaholic, I thought I would save money and buy Exteme Max SS and guess what they are holding up better than my Woody gold diggers. I have 3 seasons on 600 and 700 and they are holding up much better than I thought. I will buy them again and save the money for fuel Yamapoo aka Yamadoo
TWIN TURBO
Expert
Maybe I didn't make it cleear enough stainless steel's mechanical properties require a lube to avoid seizing. If you locktite stainles don't plan on ever changing that stud again!
Maybe I'm a little fussy but I don't want rusty looking studs on my new APEX GT.
Thanks
Maybe I'm a little fussy but I don't want rusty looking studs on my new APEX GT.
Thanks
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 4,794
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Grand Ledge Michigan USA!
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 22 Mach Z
23 Sidewinder SRX
IMHO there's nothing more disgusting then looking at a sled all shined up and pretty and then seeing those nasty rusty studs thru out the suspension
Also, there's no need to use lock tight with nyloc nuts, I have never lost a stud or had one loosen on my last 6 sleds :ORC
Also, there's no need to use lock tight with nyloc nuts, I have never lost a stud or had one loosen on my last 6 sleds :ORC
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
impalapower said:RTX Meirda said:I think that if a stud breaks....it it way better than a pull through.
I agree, but what causes the pull through? A stud hitting a rock and pushing the backing plate through the track and tearing it?
Not enough studs will do that to.
APEX 21
Expert
TWIN TURBO said:Maybe I didn't make it cleear enough stainless steel's mechanical properties require a lube to avoid seizing. If you locktite stainles don't plan on ever changing that stud again!
Maybe I'm a little fussy but I don't want rusty looking studs on my new APEX GT.
Thanks
TwinTurbo, not true about not being able to get the ss studs off with loctite. I used the red stuff on my 03 rx-1. I had to change some aluminum backers. I was able to remove the loctited ss studs.
Bodacious
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
With push thru studs using nyloc nuts, loctight is a waist of time, money and effort. I have use tons of Woodys, Stud Boys, and Extreem Max studs. I tend to believe that the SS studs do bend a bit easier than do the steel type. However I've bent the steel ones and also lots of MegaBites as well. The seasons conditions and operator thumb input are IMO the biggest reason these things get bent. All studs go though the worst of conditions, and then add 100 plus HP and anything can happen. I'm still undecided about what type to put on the Attak (if I ever get it!!). I'm leaning towards SS again, they do weight less, and that weight is rotating weight indeed.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
Ive used nothing but stainless steel and will only use stainless steel... Looks 10 times better, doesnt rust and just as strong..
The only reason i can see JTSRX breaking them is because they were either defective or because of the fact that he was running a turbo..
Ive never broken a stud... only bent them or pulled them throu
The only reason i can see JTSRX breaking them is because they were either defective or because of the fact that he was running a turbo..
Ive never broken a stud... only bent them or pulled them throu
jtssrx
Lifetime Member
I didn't run them with my turbo.
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