Sledhead_BR
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1997 VMAX XTC
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What are most of you guys doing with the engine for summer? Meaning are you fogging the engine or not. In the book it says to pour some oil in the spark plugs but that is more of a pain. On my nytro I use to fog the engine but just wanted to make sure there was not a reason on the vector not to do this.
Thanks
Thanks
theCATman
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I drain the gas down to about a gallon, add a few oz.'s of Sea-Foam, run it until the coolers get warm, shut it off, hook up the battery tender & cover it up. It's a 4-stroke, I'm not pouring oil into a cylinder that's not meant to burn oil.
I start my sled 2-3 times a summer to circulate the oil & again, let it run until the coolers get warm/hot.
Some will say that it's not getting hot enough to burn moisture outa the exhaust, while that may be partially true, I don't worry because it's warm out & not much builds up like in winter & furthermore the exhaust system is stainless, so it won't rust anyhow.
I start my sled 2-3 times a summer to circulate the oil & again, let it run until the coolers get warm/hot.
Some will say that it's not getting hot enough to burn moisture outa the exhaust, while that may be partially true, I don't worry because it's warm out & not much builds up like in winter & furthermore the exhaust system is stainless, so it won't rust anyhow.
yamaha1973
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drain the carbs if its not efi
Sevey
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I have a 2010 Vector (efi), I add stabilzer, fill the tank up with fuel to take up the air space to minimize condensation and run it for about 15min or until the heat exchangers are hot so the stabilzed fuel is in the system. Hook them up to the trickle chargers and thats it.
I start them about every 2 months again for 15 min to run new fresh fuel into the system and circulate the oil.
I agree with the previous comment, there is enough heat created in the summer to minimize moisture in the exhaust. Little harm is done.
I think its better to run them a bit than let them sit dormant for 9 months. Just my opinion.
This fall I am going to siphon part of the fuel out of the tank, and replace it with new fuel. I found the first rides this season were short, (since trails really werent open), so it took awhile to burn a tank out before refuelling with new fresh fuel. I will dump the sihponed fuel in my vehicle and burn it off there (with the driving I do, 20l of old fuel mixed with existing fuel in a 75l tank should pose no issues and will be burnt off in no time).
Should work out well. Bought a new siphon from Canadian Tire with a glass ball in the end that you jiggle and it starts the siphoning process - no sucking on hose. It worked awesome.
MS
I start them about every 2 months again for 15 min to run new fresh fuel into the system and circulate the oil.
I agree with the previous comment, there is enough heat created in the summer to minimize moisture in the exhaust. Little harm is done.
I think its better to run them a bit than let them sit dormant for 9 months. Just my opinion.
This fall I am going to siphon part of the fuel out of the tank, and replace it with new fuel. I found the first rides this season were short, (since trails really werent open), so it took awhile to burn a tank out before refuelling with new fresh fuel. I will dump the sihponed fuel in my vehicle and burn it off there (with the driving I do, 20l of old fuel mixed with existing fuel in a 75l tank should pose no issues and will be burnt off in no time).
Should work out well. Bought a new siphon from Canadian Tire with a glass ball in the end that you jiggle and it starts the siphoning process - no sucking on hose. It worked awesome.
MS
SAB1
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I have always fogged my engines for off season storage, 2 stroke or 4 stroke, outboards, jet skis, snowmobiles etc. I will charge the batteries over the off season but I never start them until they are ready for action. Last year I bought a new 4 stroke 15hsp Honda outboard at the end of the season. They winterized it for me before I took it home and they had the foggin oil already mixed right into the fuel tank. Never saw it done that way.
Gone Blue
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yamaha1973 said:drain the carbs if its not efi
X2 G.B.
new4stroker
Expert
I have been told by a yamaha certified mechanic there is no need to drain the carbs. Fuel stabilizer and at least a half or more tank of fuel. The reason he said is that the less air in the tank the less the fuel breaks down. He also suggested greasing everything and using silicone spray on any or all motor and electrical components. This will stop any corrosion and keep motor looking new. He indicated that on the water craft they spray down the whole motor and bay with silicone spray to avoid corrosion.
yamaha1973
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new4stroker said:I have been told by a yamaha certified mechanic there is no need to drain the carbs. Fuel stabilizer and at least a half or more tank of fuel. The reason he said is that the less air in the tank the less the fuel breaks down. He also suggested greasing everything and using silicone spray on any or all motor and electrical components. This will stop any corrosion and keep motor looking new. He indicated that on the water craft they spray down the whole motor and bay with silicone spray to avoid corrosion.
This is simply not true, unless you religously start the sled every 2 weeks or so during the summer, (seen plugged pilots in 3 weeks) i can almost say with 100% certainty that the bowls and jets will be full of varnish
SAB1
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Everybody has their own opinions on this topic. You gotta just do what you feel comfortable doing IMO. I own outboards, I/O's, snowmobiles, and motorcycles. I have never drained a carb on anything and never had a problem. I have always stabilized the fuel and run the engine long enough to get the stabilizer into the carbs then fogged out and let them sit till I need them next season. I have followed this route as suggested by my marine mechanic and my snomo and bike mechanics. But like I said everyone has their own ideas.
Roz
Extreme
Plan on draining carbs for first time on 07 vector,what is the proper steps to follow?
yamaha1973
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remove the airboxand locate the drain screws on the float bowls of the carbs, there an allen head, dont have to unscrew them all the way there tapered, let the gas drain and screw them back in
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