Just a heads up on another thing to keep an eye out for. Last year, my sled took a pounding (entirely my fault) and now has ~75% of the rivets in the tunnel loose, but more importantly, the 4 structural rivets holding the rear suspension brackets onto the tunnel were so loose I could not only spin them by hand but also got a screwdriver underneath the heads without a hammer....
The mounts themselves look good, I don't see any egging of the hole the suspension mounts into or anything, it is just the rivets that seem to be failing.
I am going to be going through the whole tunnel replacing all the rivets with structural stainless steel rivets. Ones that are currently already SS and/or already structural rivets will be bumped up a size.
The mounts themselves look good, I don't see any egging of the hole the suspension mounts into or anything, it is just the rivets that seem to be failing.
I am going to be going through the whole tunnel replacing all the rivets with structural stainless steel rivets. Ones that are currently already SS and/or already structural rivets will be bumped up a size.
putz21
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‘19 Sidewinder LTX SE
Good find and thanks for sharing. Definitely something to check.
Turboflash
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I'm sure you know this but often there can be a big problem with stainless steel and aluminum getting along with each other. Often it sets up galvanic corrosion which eats the aluminum up (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/stainless-steel-and-aluminum/).
I think we all would want to use stainless anywhere on these sleds but in some places, it probably isn't the best choice sometimes.
In high-quality non-stainless structural rivets, there are good finishes and platings that will hold up well in these applications over long periods of time.
IMO, snowmobile manufacturers SHOULD use all structural rivets (but they won't cuz of cost).
I think we all would want to use stainless anywhere on these sleds but in some places, it probably isn't the best choice sometimes.
In high-quality non-stainless structural rivets, there are good finishes and platings that will hold up well in these applications over long periods of time.
IMO, snowmobile manufacturers SHOULD use all structural rivets (but they won't cuz of cost).
twyztid
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Structural steel rivets will be stronger than the stainless steel ones.
Maybe use the type that are used in for the Japan-built Yamaha sleds. The Avdel Stavex 0BS01-00618 3/16" steel multi-grip rivets were the most common ones used. They have other lengths/sizes available as well ones with larger heads.
www.baysupply.com
Maybe use the type that are used in for the Japan-built Yamaha sleds. The Avdel Stavex 0BS01-00618 3/16" steel multi-grip rivets were the most common ones used. They have other lengths/sizes available as well ones with larger heads.
Avdel Avdel® Stavex® 0BS01-00618 Multi-Grip Blind Rivet; 3/16 Inch (0.187 Inch), (0.059 - 0.354 Inch Grip), Dome Head, Steel, Zinc Plated Finish - Avdel Stavex Breakstem Rivets from Bay Supply
Stavex Rivets 0BS01-00618; Buy Avdel Avdel® Stavex® 0BS01-00618 Multi-Grip Blind Rivet; 3/16 Inch (0.187 Inch), (0.059 - 0.354 Inch Grip), Dome Head, Steel, Zinc Plated Finish. Shop our selection of Multi-Grip Rivets and more from Bay Supply Fasteners and Rivets!
Wow I never had any of those Huck rivets come loose. All the rest have. I would suggest tracing the mount on tunnel then removing any powdercoating left on both the bracket and tunnel. I thought they had those mounts on before coating but maybe not after seeing my buddies Alpha. I wonder if some structural aluminum glue here and Tail mount would be a good idea? Easy enough to find and easy enough to heat if ever removing. I am sick of the blown rivets on these sleds. Every 2 years they are almost all spinning in mine. Two season old tunnel on mine. Bagged out already and my suspension is so good. No reason for it!
Choosing the best glue for bonding aluminium; What you need to know - Forgeway Ltd
Are you looking at the different structural adhesives and wondering which one is best for bonding aluminium? This article analyses the options.
forgeway.com
This is what I came up with and is what Polaris uses. Fusor is a less expensive version same thing. I like McMaster Carr and worth it to go with known products too me. The Tunnel Tail rivets will be a very good test and l really am sick of it. So.
Can’t beat McMaster Carr’s service!
twyztid
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Yeah. I have ordered for work before at 7:00pm EST and the order is still delivered next day (Grand Rapids, MI area).
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Yes amazing and dangerous once they have a guys card on file. Just click a button and done. Easier than Amazon!
This went well. The stuff smells like Fiberglass Resin so ventilation is important. Easy now sadly just opened the doors since its so warm out. I wiped seepage with a rag and then came back with Isopropyl Alcohol which removes any residue or finger prints if you get it within the 15 minutes. After that you have to scrape. 1/2 hr and it would need to be sanded. It easily covered almost all areas between panels. Including the rivet holes just by using two screwdrivers as a wedge to get a gap. I prepped using Brake Clean and a strip of sandpaper in between wedged out panels. All rivets were removed and the bumper was left on. Then a alcohol soaked cloth between panels followed by air. I believe it has to help. May never know for sure though since I also used huck rivets both sides and random on top with the Avdel rivets every other hole. Backers on all. I want it to bend before the rivets come loose! I know you Sidewinder guys could probably still do this even with the exchanger under there. Only need about 1/8 gap. Downside is if you are picky you would have to spend time to clean off all the glue on edge. If so I think would need two or three tips for the glue since it would harden in tip before done. I used two tips but think I could do it now with one. Is about 1/2in of glue left.
After putting another 6,000 miles on the sled since replacing these mounts I did find one of the SS rivets slightly loose this fall. That said, I did have to straighten the front portion of the tunnel going into the heat exchanger due to... an over aggressive jump. The fact that the mounts and everything else held up was a miracle.
Richard Hodgins
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Did you find stronger rivets to use instead of those factory huck ones? I have tried stainless steel and more recently the Advel/stavex ones suggested and they STILL loosened/failed!
I have been using structural crimp bolts recently. However what has been happening is the aluminum around the rivet/bolt gives way rather than the fastener itself.
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