Nytro-glycerin
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- 2010 Nytro XTX Black edition
Hey all. Getting ready for this up comming season. My rear skid seems to be really squealing. In this video I push down and let it return up, which it doesn't. I then pull the tunnel up and push down again. The end of last year when I was riding and it was working hard it wasn't squeaking but was sagging with the snow flap on the ground. Just started to be that bad. Only 4K on the machine. Shock blown?
Video link
Thanks guys
Sent from my pocket computer so excuse my spelling
Video link
Thanks guys
Sent from my pocket computer so excuse my spelling
weldion
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Hey all. Getting ready for this up comming season. My rear skid seems to be really squealing. In this video I push down and let it return up, which it doesn't. I then pull the tunnel up and push down again. The end of last year when I was riding and it was working hard it wasn't squeaking but was sagging with the snow flap on the ground. Just started to be that bad. Only 4K on the machine. Shock blown?
Video link
Thanks guys
Sent from my pocket computer so excuse my spelling
When did you service your skid the last time? Lubed it recently? You have plastic holders for the rear springs that like some grease too.
Lman69
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This would be a sprimg issue!
Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
X3 also remember sticky dry rubber track affects this. Don't forget to remove any ski wheels and put on level ground also. All you Nytro owners really need to keep up on servicing the center shock also. Oil goes bad pretty quickly from crazy valving they put in there.
grizztracks
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I like to pull the skid periodically to check for loose bolts,cracks and worn parts. You get a better idea if there's issues with the skid when it's out on the floor. The stock shocks will fail on theses sleds if they aren't serviced at proper intervals. I had the center shock fail on my RTX just after replacing the track with a 128" Ice Attack. I though it would make it one more season but it failed and took out the new track. If you take anything apart make sure you use Loctite when it goes back together. The Yamaha lock nuts don't like to stay tight after they've been removed.
Nytro-glycerin
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2014
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 7
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- 68
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Nytro XTX Black edition
I like to pull the skid periodically to check for loose bolts,cracks and worn parts. You get a better idea if there's issues with the skid when it's out on the floor. The stock shocks will fail on theses sleds if they aren't serviced at proper intervals. I had the center shock fail on my RTX just after replacing the track with a 128" Ice Attack. I though it would make it one more season but it failed and took out the new track. If you take anything apart make sure you use Loctite when it goes back together. The Yamaha lock nuts don't like to stay tight after they've been removed.
Thank you Grizz. Is the shock on my 2010 XTX rebuild able? Rear shock is likely my problem I assume if it's shock related.
Sent from my pocket computer so excuse my spelling
herndonp
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If you got 4 k on that sled you should have all your shocks refreshed. Like Grizz suggested you should pull the rear skid and check everything. Its alot easier to get the shocks out when the skid is out of the machine.Take some pictures as you take it apart so you put the shocks back correctly.
Pete
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x4 those xtx shocks like servicing every 2 years in my case. mine was dragging the flap at the end of the season last year too.
Mills
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I had the same problem as you so I removed the skid, disassembled it, cleaned everything, replaced the bearings (use SX/SXR idler wheels they are the same but have serviceable bearings) and had the shocks rebuilt by Bruce at B-Line Control in Lindstrom MN. It feels and handles like new!!!
Grizz -- X2 on the lock nuts not wanting to stay tight after being removed. I have lost both inner front idler wheels and mounts because those damn nuts have come loose. The bolts on those idler wheels are so short it doesn't take much for the nut to drop off and the whole mount/wheel assembly to exit stage right and left on you.
Grizz -- X2 on the lock nuts not wanting to stay tight after being removed. I have lost both inner front idler wheels and mounts because those damn nuts have come loose. The bolts on those idler wheels are so short it doesn't take much for the nut to drop off and the whole mount/wheel assembly to exit stage right and left on you.
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