So I have been using castrol syntec 5-30 for a few years, but its hard to find now. What are people running for good oil that is affordable? This adds up quick when I have to keep my wifes venture and our rhino up to snuff. thanks
stomper said:I used amsoil 0w40 last year and my sled was burning it up fast so I switched to mobil 1 0w40 hoping it would help. Nope. I just changed the oil and went to 5w30 quaker state high milage dino oil. It's a 03 rx1 and I realize that it's a ring issue not an oil issue, I'm just trying to slow it down some. The best part about the QS 5w30 is I got a 5L jug on sale for $16. Can't beat that. I even went back to dino oil in my truck and the engine seems to run quieter. I'm not sure if I beleive all the hype about the synthetic oils. I just started using synthetic oils in my vehicles in the past 2 years and haven't noticed any difference. All the vehicles I have ever had I have run the good quality dino oils in and have had well over 300,000 km on all of them with out any engine issues. Maybe I just got lucky, but luck doesn't seem to be one of my strong points.
Grades of oil.
Motor oils are derived from base stocks. That is, a generic oil base is modified with additives to produce a lubricant with the desired properties. A base stock oil with no additives would not perform very well at all. Base stocks are classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and fall into one of five categories.
Group I and II - these are mineral oils derived from crude oil
Group III - this is a highly refined mineral oil made through a process called hydrocracking. In North America this group is considered a synthetic oil, for marketing purposes.
Group IV - these are true synthetic oils, known as Polyalphaolefin (PAO).
Group V - these are synthetic stocks other than PAO's and include esters and other compounds.