Roadrunner
Expert
Guys, go ahead and run the synthetics after the motor is broken in. Take a look at a diagram of the starter on Yamaha's web site (parts microfiche) You'll see there are no clutches running in oil. Only a conventional starter and ring gear attached to the crankshaft. Somehow Yamaha carried over their "bike" oil specs to the snowmobiles. Probably because of the motor. If you are still worried, run Amsoil, because they make a synthetic oil for motorcycles with wet clutches. I run Mobil 1 0W-40 because I can buy it almost anywhere.
Arctic RX
Extreme
Thanks for all the great info. I had to ignore the "motoman" suggestion regarding changing to synthetic at full break-in (1500Mi). It is too damn cold up here so I had to switch to synthetic Polaris 4-stroke oil @700K/M. It's good down to -47C and I started my RX-1 at -42C a week ago with no problems. You can hear the oil flowing as soon as it starts. Hopefully I rode it hard enought in the break-in period to not have troubles later on.
Snomad
Extreme
If memory serves I think it was a one way bearing type of "clutch" in the starter that would be vulnerable to additives. If the bearing slips because of them the starter could not mechanically engage. The reason for the one way bearing was in case you hit the starter switch while its running or hold it while the motor starts to run. Correct me if I'm wrong but this is a pretty slick way to avoid starter damage. From all the posts on this site last year and this year a synthetic without friction reducing additives has been OK.
170plus
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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hey lazy bastard,i really enjoy your replies,no joke,we both run rx1's so our taste cant be that much different :lol: a need for speed :shock: my BIG under revving chevy recommends synthetic than the rx1 really needs it cause it works so much harder,i also agree with that, 6000rpm compaired to 11000rpm is quite a big difference,ive always run synthetic in my 2 strokes too,bottom line is lube is lube and synthetic is just better
LazyBastard said:Now as for corvette.... THATS JUST A CHEVY! They are the masters of making horsepower by making things GIANT. Not high-tech, BLOODY BIG! The new models make only 61 hp/l. I want you to take one of those chevy 350's and spin it fast enough (no turbo) to get it to make power like RX1 and see what that motor turns into. It would be cool if the rods held on long enough to blow the head off the block with the motor spinning 10krpm.
I will grant that those other motors *are* more high-tech than chevy, but that wasn't the question. Even still, THOSE motors are NOT forced to do the same level of work as RX1.
Lazy........Shortly after I embarrass some snob Porsche owner with my POS Chevy, I hear a similar line. But, then, if I had my a$$ handed to me by a car that cost half as much, I be looking for excuses too.
To each their own. Let's not get into a flame war here - okay?
Roadrunner
Expert
Snomad, the starter is entirely seperated from any engine oil. I know what you're saying about the ball bearings that are in most starters. It's a one way clutch called a bendix drive.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
I woldnt consider todays engines especially high performance crude by any means. It uses alot of the same technology as a RX motor. Just becasue its bigger and does not produce the same HP per Liter as some of those others does not mean it is old technology in any way. Try putting your RX motor in a Corvette and try and get it to even move. Different technology for differnt applications. A diesel runs 22-1 compression try that with a RX motor and Diesels are very simple by comparison. I have had a lot of bikes and I have seen damage by certain oils to clutch systems. I do not have any suggestions on oils but if I had to guess one that was made for a motorcycle would work perfect. Most of todays high performance motorcycles run a wet clutch system where the clutch runs in the engine oil I have seen products like slick 50 and some others clog up the clutches and cause them to slip. Just my .02
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
WFO said:To each their own. Let's not get into a flame war here - okay?
I'm not trying to make this into a flame war. Nor am I arguing that chevy may make some fast cars. Just that their approach is not "high tech", but brutal. For instance, I can make a skidoo olympique with a '79 mercury 200 outboard for power run faster than an RX1. It would probably weigh less.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Lazy what do you consider High tech? For instance direct fire ignition. Computer controlled fuel injection Computer controlled Ignition timing. All of these have been in Cheverolet and many other car manufacturers stables for years. The Quad 4 engine had 4 coils multiport FI and a hemi head shape. The ZR-1 Corvette had 4 valvles per cylinder among all of the other things it had a transmission that would decide if you needed 3and 4th gear plus a Valet switch so you could limit the wife and or kids to about 250HP. The old 4 stroke engine itself is antiquated technology compared to whats out there. But you need it to be affordable for people to buy it. I saw a Jet powered motorcycle I think Jay Leno has one I think I could use one of those in my snowmobile. I maybe could use a RX-1 chassis and make the exhaust for the jet out. Run the turbine gear reduced to the clutch so it wont spin to many RPM's and taadaaa instant scary.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm talking power/weight ratio and power/displacement ratio. You can add all the electronic crap you want, and it won't make chevy engines actually run strong for their physical size, at least not without compromising lifespan.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
As strong as they are supposed to be. You can do it with expensive parts and they will last quite a while under normal conditions but again they do a specific job like a snowmobile engine does a specific job. If money where no object I am sure you could make one hell of a small block chevy make about 800Hp and last 200,000 miles.
Thunderbox
Newbie
Hi All,
I have it on good authority that Yamaha will be supplying a synthetic oil for the year 2005. Seems they didn't think we would be driving our sleds when it is 35 below. The olny part of the engine that requires break in is the rings. Go to www.mototuneusa.com and find out the proper way to break your sled in. You only have about 20-40 miles and then you have sealed your fate. If you want a none oil burning powerful machine you will go to this site and follow the instructions to the letter.
I have it on good authority that Yamaha will be supplying a synthetic oil for the year 2005. Seems they didn't think we would be driving our sleds when it is 35 below. The olny part of the engine that requires break in is the rings. Go to www.mototuneusa.com and find out the proper way to break your sled in. You only have about 20-40 miles and then you have sealed your fate. If you want a none oil burning powerful machine you will go to this site and follow the instructions to the letter.
Arctic RX
Extreme
When starting my machine a week ago I heard a nasty grinding noise which sounded like the starter slipping(right side of engine). I haven't heard it again since but I'm switching my oil just in case it is the culprit. I'm using Polaris synthetic 0W40. Any idea what this grinding sound might be :?:
Thanks, :?
Thanks, :?
Maybe it was leftover pieces from an Arctic Cat you ran over :?: :lol:
Hope you find it
Hope you find it
Snomad
Extreme
I just did the end of season oil change a week ago and needed to get some oil. I still had some regular Yamalube 5W-30 left so I only needed 1 more quart and decided not to use synthetic just yet. To my surprise the dealer had 0W-30 semi-synthetic Yamalube on the shelf. He told me they just got it. By the way, they have mentioned to me more than once that they have had reports of some of the R-1 motors having bearing failures when pure synthetic was run in them. I don't know about that but at least Yamaha has their own 0 rated oil now.
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